bottom to act as mattress, having 6” 
pockets in sides. Lower bunk was 1’ 
from floor and made of brown denim. 
Upper bunk -was 3’ from floor and 
made of muslin-covered “quilting,” 
filled with cotton (a failure on account 
of condensation of “body moisture’). 
9’ poles were cut, run through sleeves 
in shanty canvas, then through pockets 
of beds, and out the other end, when 
the “sleeves” were drawn tight and 
tied. 
Framework of Shanty Boat 
(Note — Measurements allow for 
“doweling.”’ Also better allow 1” scant- 
ness in setting each way, for the 
“bends” in sapling, so that canvas can 
be drawn over. We did not do this and 
had to trim with the axe.) 
Saplings Required 
Four 6” to 8” logs for runners 10’ or 
11’ long, flattened top and _ bottom, 
turned up at front end in which a hole 
was bored through .to allow the 3’ 
becket “for pulling’; the spacing run- 
ners measure from “centre to centre” 
in placing the uprights. 
Four 7’ 3” for front uprights. 
Four 7’ 7” for rafters. 
Four 9’ for bed poles. 
Four 2’ 6” for spreaders (set to 
measure outside to outside of the bed 
poles, so as to fit stretcher beds. 
Two 4’ 2” for side rails (set 1' from 
ground) from front corner to bed posts. 

Four 5’ 5” for 
rear uprights. 
MEwoeh . Ole tor 
_.bed post uprights. 
he wO5,. 2. 8 etor 
front rails (set 1’ 
from ground floor). 
Two Tomb a TOG 
front and rear top 
pieces. 
Eight 8” pegs 
for runners. 
Four 6” pegs for 
bed “chucks.” 
Detail of Door 
(Inside view) 
No. 4— 
A—Corner post 
of Shanty. 
B—Door lintel, 
flattened on  out- 
side to fit door 
when closed. 
C—Door, which 
isis O22 x" 4G ato 
which is tacked 
canvas on the out- 
side, overlapping 
door frame, to be 
tacked to corner 
post of shanty. 
Top rail of door 
frame flattened on inside to meet and 
fit “lintel,” also tip of lower door rail 
to meet side post. 
D—Hinges. (See No. 5.) 
E—S ide post, 
flattened on out- 
side face. 
F—Screw eyes 
set above top of 
door lintel in “A” 
and “EK” and same 
in floor at their 
base for 9 guide 
wires, on which 
slide small brass 
rings to which was 
sewn a black can- 
ton flannel door 
cover” (2) 7oneenao 
6”), the bottom of 
which carries a 
pocket for a stick, 
which folds door 
cover up, when 
pulled by either 
set of endless draw 
strings, attached 
to stick in bot- 
tom pocket and 
running up and 
soitty MeaBB eo." 
through top screw [i {#77 Gee 
eyes. NS 
Detail of Door 
Hinges 
(Outside view) 
No. 5— 

A—Corner post to which rear side ot 
door is tacked. 
B—Hinge made by flattening. 
C—Top door rail to fit. 
D—A short piece of sapling doweled 
at top to fit hole bored in flattened end 
of Cf Ee 
E—Wooden pins driven through “D” 
and into “A.” 
F—Is rear side rail of door frame. 
No. 6—Outside view of 12” round 
auto window sewn with 2” lap into side 
of shanty leaving an 8” opening for 
window. 
No. 7—Inside view of 12” auto win- 
dows showing 12” sleeve of black can- 
ton flannel. 
Lay-out of Shanty Cabin Cloth Entire 
No. 8 — (Note—Pockets are shown 
folded and sewn. Measurements given 
make due allowance). 
A—Front, 7’ x 7’. 
B—Right side, 7’ front high, 7’ deep, 
5’ high at rear. 
C—Left side, 7’ front high, 7’ deep, 
5’ high at rear. 
D—Roof, 7’ wide, 7’ 3” deep. 
E—Rear, 7’ 5’. 
a-a-a—Stiffening tapes (%”) sewn 
to inside of cloth, with tie tapes (10”) 
used to tie cloth to frame to avoid 
“ballooning.” 
b—Door 2’ 6” x 6’ with 
c—Handle of reinforced canvas. 
d—12” round auto window set 4’ 8” 
(Continued on page 41) 
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