The frame molds 
can be easily made \\ 
just as shown on i\ 
the frame con- \\ 
struction detail \\ 
drawings. The WW 
stern board should Ma 
be sawed out and 
planed true to the 
dimensions’ given, 
also. The edges of 
the stern board 
against which the 
bottom planks and 
side planks fasten 
will have to be 
beveled slightly. 
The beveling will 
have to conform to the curvature of the 
boat and is required in order that the 
bottom and side planks will lay fair 
along the edge of the stern board. 
This beveling can be done after the 
frame is assembled and when the 
planking is being put on. 
The stem piece can be sawed out tri- 
angular-shaped after the pattern indi- 
cated in the sketches. With the com- 
ponent parts of the frame completed the 
assembly or setting up of same can be 
proceeded with. A level cellar floor 
makes a good place for this. First, how- 
ever, you should make sure that the exit 
door from the cellar will permit the pas- 
sage of the boat. This, of course, will 
have to be sideways, that is, the boat 
will have to be “up-ended” so that the 
beam is lengthwise with the height of 
the door, for very few cellars are pro- 
vided with a doorway over 50 in. wide. 

Page 203 
BKEG 


Keec: 

gree AMEDD TO SKEG 

‘KEEL 1S SLOTTED BACK A SHORT DISTANCE THE 
(SLOT BEING WIDE ENEOUGH To AavdUT THE SKEG: THE 
STRIP FRO THE KEEL 18 BENT Down UNDER. THE 
SKEG AND NAILED TO 17 *- 
BE very careful to set all the frames 
central and plumb to the drawing 
dimensions, for upon this depends the 
general appearance of the boat. Fasten 
everything with good quality galvan- 
ized screws, in an upside down position 
as shown by the drawings. 
After you have satisfied yourself 
with the assembling of the framework, 
the planking can be fastened on. This 
is really the most fascinating part of 
the work. The side planks are first 
sawed out to somewhere near what 
their “developed shape” actually is. 
The developed shape of each plank 
can be secured by taking a _ tem- 
plate or pattern of each plank on a 
strip of wall paper—and, by the way, 
it is well to provide yourself with 
one or two rolls of inexpensive wall 
paper for the making of these tem- 
plates. 
Sanco srtut BENT FRord HERE. 
In fitting the 
planking, take spe- 
cial care to see 
that the seam or 
joint is closed at 
the inside even if 
it does not quite 
meet at the out- 
side. If the seam 
is tight at the in- 
side, caulking cot- 
ton can be forced 
in the open crevice 
at the outside in 
order to close the 
seam and make 
same water - tight 
if required. 
The bottom planks are nailed with 
galvanized boat nails or screwed with 
galvanized screws to the bottom edge 
of bottom side plank and chine piece. 
These are simply 6-inch wide pine 
strips laid fair and true across the 
bottom. After all the bottom planks 
are fastened on, the keel piece and 
deadwood or skeg can be fastened on 
the bottom. This is very simple work 
and needs no explanation other than 
that shown by the sketch showing detail 
of same. 
1S boat can now be turned right 
side up and the seats and decking 
put in place, and the knee pieces fitted 
to the stern board and oarlocks fitted in 
place. 
The half round mouldings should be 
fastened along the top edge or sheer at 
(Continued on page 242) 

SETTING UP DETAILS: 
