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ompanions 


AIREDALE 
By WILLIAM A. BRUETTE 
This instructive and interesting work covers 
the history, breeding and training of these use- 
ful dogs. It is the latest and best book on 
the subject. 
Those who desire to train their dogs to the 
highest state of efficiency either as companions 
or for hunting will find easily understood and 
practical instructions on the subjects of gen- 
eral training, retrieving, swimming and diving, 
and work on squirrels, rabbits, partridges, etc. 
193 pages. Illustrated. Cartridge, $1.00 
AMATEUR’S DOG BOOK 
By WILLIAM A. BRUETTE 
A popular, condensed handbook of informa- 
tion concerning the management, training and 
diseases of dogs, including trick, guard and 
watch dogs. Chapters on the care of the 
kennel, treatment of fleas and lice, training 
methods, teaching name, house-breaking, stay- 
ing out of doors, searching by scent, trailing. 
life saving, shaking hands, dancing, jumping 
rope, climbing a ladder, and diseases, such as 
distemper, worms, tapeworms, chorea and many 
others. The book for the amateur. 
157 pages. Illustrated. Paper, 50 Cents. 
COMPLETE DOG BOOK 
By DR. WILLIAM A. BRUETTE 
The dogs of America, Great Britain and 
other countries® are fully described in this 
modern work, written by an authority of inter- 
national reputation. It is a book that presents 
in an entertaining manner the history, general 
characteristics, peculiarities and particular 
sphere of usefulness of all of these breeds 
recognized by the American Kennel Club. The 
latest standards for judging each breed are 
given, the good points and bad points are set 
forth clearly and are further elucidated by a 
number of beautiful photographs of famous 
specimens of the most important breeds. 
353 pages. Illustrated. Cloth, $3.00 
HOUNDS AND BEAGLES 
By A FOX HUNTER 
This book tells how to develop the young 
hound into a high-class fox, coon or rabbit 
dog, an active, intelligent searcher and a true, 
steady driver on the trail. Instructions are 
given for correcting common faults such as 
babbling, loafing and back trailing. Instruc- 
tions are given for developing a pack and the 
subjects of field trials, care, conditioning, 
handling and treatment are adequately covered 
Every man who loves a hound should have this 
book. 224 pages. Illustrated. Paper, $1.00 
KENNEL RECORD 
A handy book for immediate record of all 
events and transactions, relieving the owner 
from risk of forgetting important kennel mat- 
ters by trusting to memory. Contains pre- 
pared blanks that will enable the owner to im- 
mediately register pedigrees and record stud 
visits, whelps, sales, winnings and all minor 
transactions. Contains 15 sets of blanks, 4 
blanks to a set.60 pages.Press Board, 75 Cents 
MODERN BREAKING 
By WILLIAM A. BRUETTE 
Every phase of the subject has been care- 
fully covered and the important lessons are 
illustrated by photographs from life. It is a 
book well calculated to enable the amateur to 
become a successful trainer and handler. 
There are chapters on The Art of Training, 
Setters vs. Pointers, Selection of Puppies, Nam- 
ing Dogs, Nomenclature, Training Implement, 
Know Thyself, First Lessons, Yard Breaking, 
Pointing Instinct, Backing, Ranging, Retrieving, 
Gun Shyness, Faults and Vices, etc. 
Illustrated. Paper, $1.00 
FOREST and STREAM PUB. CO. 
221 W. 57th ST. NEW YORK, N. Y. 
169 pages. 
In writing to Advertisers mention Forest and Stream. 
a honey-bee is seen to be working, and 
the bee-box is held, with the left hand, 
near the blossom of plant and gradual- 
ly brought below the point on the blos- 
soms where the bee is working, in such 
a manner as to bring the portion of 
the blossom bearing the bee directly 
over the open chamber of the bee-box. 
Move slowly and steadily. The right 
hand is now brought up to the shutter 
until the first and second fingers are 
directly under the same (see Photo- 
graph 2), and then with a quick, up- 
ward motion (snap) of the right hand 
the shutter is closed, and one little bee 
of the busy swarm is a temporary 
prisoner. 
The center-slide is now raised and 
the palm of the right hand held over 
the glass shutter covering the chamber 
containing the bee. In a few seconds 
the bee flies into the other chamber 
and the center-slide is then pushed 
down. 
The bee hunter may now, if he so 
desires, catch as many bees, one at a 
time, as he sees fit; raising the center- 
slide, each time, and holding the palm 
of the hand (the right hand for con- 
venience, usually) over the glass shut- 
ter covering the chamber containing 
the last-caught bee. The bee imme- 
diately flies toward the light in the 
other chamber, whereupon the center- 
slide is pushed down, as before. Should 
the bee hunter, at any time, desire to 
transfer the bees back into the cham- 
ber in which they were caught, he has 
merely to place the palm of the hand 
over the glass shutter covering the 
chamber containing bees, raise the cen- 
ter-slide, and, presto! every bee flies 
back into the former chamber. This 
is one of the main advantages of the 
center-slide and it is a boon to the 
would-be hunter. Its other advan- 
tages make themselves prominent in 
the field of actual practice, but as 
these are weighty only as regards the 
individual, it would be needless to set 
forth in an article of this size the 
principals underlying them. 
The bee (or bees) having been 
caught, the bee-box should be placed 
on a spot having an opening around it 
of about fifty feet. (See Potograph 
3.) I generally use a tripod, one of 
my own designs that I made especially 
for use in bee-hunting, upon which to 
place my bee-box (shown in Photo- 
graphs 3, 4 and 5). It has collapsible 
legs and works automatically, thereby 
offering a world of comfort and con- 
venience to its user. But a very good 
tripod can easily be made by pointing 
off, on one end, a green maple (or 
elm) stick which is about five feet in 
length by 1% in. in thickness. The 
other end is split down, in the center, 
to about a third of the length of the 
stick. A strand of wire is then wound 
It will identify you. 
around the stick where the split part 
ends, to keep stick from splitting fur- 
ther, and the tripod is made. In use, 
the pointed end of the tripod is pushed 
into the ground far enough to hold 
the weight of the bee-box. The split 
end is then opened far enough to allow 
the bee-box to be pressed down between 
the two split halves and the natural 
spring of the split halves keeps it 
rigid. 
The bee-box having been properly 
placed on the desired spot, the bees 
are allowed to “set” for about five 
minutes, to give them time in which to 
“load up” with syrup, and then at the 
end of the designated time both of the 
glass shutters are thrown open (see 
Photograph 4), and as the bees soar 
out of the box, heavily loaded with 
syrup, the bee hunter should step 
quickly, but steadily, back to a dis- 
tance of about ten feet and make ready 
to “line” the bees as they begin to 
circle (see Photograph 5). 
If the sun is bright and interferes 
with “lining,” it is a great help to 
shade the eves with the palm of the 
hand, or the hat one is wearing. The 
bee hunter should keep his eyes focused 
directly on the bee he is “lining” and 
follow her all through her circling 
until she “lines” and disappears, en- 
veloped in the fathoms of limitless 
space. 
The bee-line is now started, and the 
bee-hunter should be ready to line the 
returning bee (or bees) and prepare to 
move. Before “shifting,” however, the 
bee-hunter should make sure of the- 
direction taken by the bee in lining to 
her hive. If he is not quite sure of 
the course after lining the first bee (in 
the event of there having been more 
than one bee started), he may “line” 
several until he is absolutely certain of 
the course. However, if he has but one 
bee “going,” he must, of necessity, wait 
until she comes back, each time, before 
he can “re-line” her. It is sometimes 
helpful, in certain localities, to start 
a number of bees by maniplating the 
center-slide, but ordinarily, and espe- 
cially for the novice, it is better to 
start but one bee; even if it takes him 
longer to get started, due to his being 
unable to line the bee when she flies 
from the bee-box the first few times. 
But, supposing the bee has been 
properly lined and the bee-hunter pre- 
pared to shift, the bee-box is now 
moved along the course taken by the 
bee in flight to a distance of about 
two hundred feet. The shutters are 
left open. In due time the bee returns, 
loads, and flys forth again; and the 
bee-hunter, having “lined” her as be- 
fore and made sure of the course, 
shifts his box ahead another two hun- 
dred feet or so. 
This is kept up until the bee be- 
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