felling an ox. If you break away the 
handle you will find it made of three 
wires or prongs “b”; cut these off about 
3” or 4” above the bend of the fork 
and put a “kink” in the sides, an inch 
apart, as indicated by arrows in “c’’, in 
camp, select a handle of any length 
that you wish, split one end, cutting 
side notches 1” and 2” above, insert 
your fork, “d”, and wrap down tight at 
notches, “e’’, when your fork is ready 
for use. 
CAMP SPOONS, Fig. 1.—If the camp 
fork handles will do all that I have sug- 
gested, the spoons would make a good 
rival for the favorite weapon of Sam- 
son in conflict with Philistines. ‘“f” 
gives a weak idea of such an implement. 
Cut down as shown in “g” and attach 
handle in camp the same as for your 
fork. If you have a handled spoon that 
you want to hang on to, put a curve in 
the end of the handle “h”, and you will 
find it within reach when in a pot, ‘“‘i’, 
rather than submarined in a “bucket 
of mulligan.” 
A COLLAPSIBLE MEAT SAFE, Fig. 1.— 
Saves the contents from “Flies, Bugs 
& Co.,” and when hung from a limb in 
the nearby shade, gives excellent ven- 
tilation. Make two—the center ring as 
shown in “b” is not necessary but 
simply acts as a spreader—rings of 
heavy wire 15” in diameter, welding, 
soldering, wrapping, or inserting the 
ends into a bit of brass tubing, then 
pinching the ends to hold, so that the 
rings remain in shape. See Fig. 5 for 
detail of fastenings. Take a piece of 
bobbinet, furniture scrim or cheesecloth, 
36”x48”. Tape bind the edges. On one 
edge of the 48” length sew a woven 
cloth packet for draw-string. Sew into 
shape of a bag with draw-string at top. 
Set your rings, bottom and top, allow- 
ing for the play in the draw-string. 
A FOLDING CAMP CUPBOARD, Fig. 1.— 
Is a blessing to the cook and is simple 
of construction. As sold in the supply 
houses the shelves are solid, the cup- 
board folds flat and stiff, of course it 
is more trouble to build and set up, but 
it is worth it in weight upon the trail 
and space in packing to construst it as 
in “a”, “b’? which gives an idea of the 
layout, and “c” which shows open end 
of a shelf, which is made up of a series 
of pockets into which split halves of 
branches are inserted, upon the camp 
site. Detail is shown in Fig. 3. 
BAKING BREAD ON GREEN STICKS, 
Fig. 2.—Is the snappy “club twist” of 
a wood’s breakfast. Take a number of 
green hard wood sticks, peel them, and 
stick in front of fire; when sap runs, 
twist your bread dough about them in 
two inch flat strips and toast to taste. 
A MEAT Roaster, Fig. 2.—Turned by 
the wind saves a lot of trouble while 
it reduces culinary effort to the first de- 
gree of simplicity. Take one of your 
cook-wires having a snap at each end, 
run it through the meat and snap onto 
‘itself, hanging from a “dingle-stick” 
before your fire. (A crotch stick through 
the meat and cord above will do.) Add 
a fan of thin wood or bark, twisted into 
the wire above the meat, and a birch 
bark bowl to catch the drippings and 
you can baste to your heart’s content, 
as the wind will slowly turn your meat, 
without effort upon your part. 
CANVAS COVERS FOR FIRE IN RAIN, 
Fig. 2.—I have been told that it can’t 
be done, but I have done it for several 
years quite successfully. A 4”x3” strip 
of heavy muslin, “fire-proofed,” set 
with a gromet at each corner and in the 
middle of the long way, to tie to an 
added frame on the fire-crane, as shown, 
has saved many a “bucket of mulligan” 
and other things that I would have 
hated to have to do again—at that time. 
BOILING AND ROASTING BIRCH BARK, 
Fig. 2—Is about the only way I have 
been able to make it pliable enough to 
handle for working. In boiling more 
than one piece, be sure that the bark 
is not rolled into a tight scroll so that 
it will all become soaked. If possible, 
cover the vessel, which will give the as- 
sistance of the steam. It can be boiled 
in a small container, by reversing the 
ends of the bark at about equal inter- 
vals of time. 
IN ROASTING.—If you will take two 
green wood sticks, split them down at 
one end for a little more than the width 
of the bark to be roasted, insert the 
bark, tie with green bast, as indicated, 
you will find it an easy matter to keep 
the bark from “rolling.” 
“PALOOSA” CANDLE LANTERN, Fig. 2. 
—Is best made from an old lard-pail. 
Remove the bail from the ears and run 
it the length of the pail; cut cross slits 
on the opposite side, in the center, push 
the cut ends in slightly, and force the 
candle through. Do not cut off the tin 
ends as they will keep the candle from 
falling out. If it does so, press the cut 
ends closer together. 
THE BaRK CANDLE STICK, Fig. 2.— 
Take a strip of bark, wrap it about the 
candle and shove the two ends down 
into a slit cut in the end of a sharpened 
green wood club, thrust into the ground. 
THE BIRCH BARK DIPPER, Fig. 2, (de- 
tails), Fig. 3—Made of a circular piece 
of bark, folded after the manner of the 
“penny in the slot paper cups,” bound 
with bark and sewing holes stopped 
with spruce gum (chewing will answer 
the purpose) is a nifty piece of camp 
furniture when mounted upon a crotch 
stick handle. 
THE WASH-BOILER STOVE, Fig. 2.— 
Came’ into being on a trip into the 
woods in which my wife and I were 
caught in a 5 weeks rain. We moved 
into a deserted lumber shack that was 
in good condition. We needed a stove. 
Finding an old wash-boiler in the scrap 
pile, I placed this upside down, having 
cut out a square of 6” including one 
handle, on a flat piece of rock for a base 
set on the floor of the cabin. A stove . 
pipe made from “vacant” cans of vari- 
ous and sundry kinds, “c’’, completed 
a stove that for heat was a wonder— 
all you had to do was to light a match, 
throw it at the stove and retreat to the 
opposite side of the room. But when it 
came to cooking on that copper top, 
twas a different story. A kettle left 
over night might be slightly warm in 
the wee small hours of the morning 
after. We were discouraged until the 
said boiler gave us a “kink” from a 
“kink in its side”, received when a stone 
nudged it in the ribs, at which said time 
the ribs were bent inward. The con- 
cave part became red hot almost at 
once. The baker was shoved up and a 
meal was “in and out” before we could 
figure what it was all about. After 
that—simplicity itself. 
TIN CAN CHIMNEY—“c”, mark upon 
your stove a circle made by placing your 
bottom or base can, and mark around it, 
“a”, Within, place a smaller circle. 
Cut out. Split back from the inner 
to the outer circle and turn up small 
snips to form collar, “b”, for the pipe 
to set onto. Knock or melt the bottoms 
out of the cans, slit back on one-end and 
fit over the lower, ‘‘c’’. 
THE PowpER CAN Stove, Fig. 2.— 
Famous from time immemorial among 
the lime-stone quarrymen of the Mis- 
sissippi Valley, as the original “Grand- 
daddy” of the “cylindrical stove.” A 
square cut out of one side, near the 
bottom, to act as a door, another in the 
top, about which is built up a clay and 
twig chimney for a few inches, and I’ll 
say it’s some stove. One floated down 
the Mississippi with me as I followed 
the duck flight, years ago, and I have 
never found a cooker on the market 
that could compare to that powder can 
stove of then. 
DRYING FIREWwoop As You NEEp It, 
Fig. 2.—Is the momenteous discovery of 
Charlie Williams, the piscatoral part- 
ner of Dr. G. P. Holden. Now, Chas. 
is in the heating business, so naturally 
he has an eye for such things. All he 
did was to lay the wet wood on a rack 
over the fire, thereby sheltering the fire 
and at the same time drying the wood. 
When a piece was needed, he simply 
hauled down the driest and replaced 
with one containing a bit more damp- 
ness. 
: Harry IRWIN, 
Monticello, N. Y. 
Page 602 
