
cabinet to the middle and mark the dis- 
tance on each of the sides with a dot, 
putting the dot % inch from the edge of 
the board and on the inside. Now set 
in the cleat so that the ends of the line 
drawn on it correspond with the dots 
marked on the sides and fasten it in 
place with screws driven into it through, 
the side pieces. Now cut your front 
piece in two, so that it will give you 
two pieces of board %2x12x25 inches. 
Put one of these pieces in place, as the 
lower half of the front, the edge of the 
top should*coincide with the line down 
in the middle of the last inside cleat put 
in. Fasten this lower half in place 
to the cleats and bottom end with 1 
inch screws; then screw the edges of 
the side pieces to it. 
Now take your piece of canvas and 
cut from it a rectangular section ex- 
actly 44x50 inches. This will leave 
from the original piece a selvage 22x45 
inches. Cut from this selvage two rec- 
tangular sections 8x12 inches. Now 
mark off in one corner of your large 
piece a section 12x25 inches. The 25 
inch line should be parallel to the 50 
inch side and the 12 inch to the 44 
inch side. 
Now remove the screws holding the 
outside cleat, which was put on to back 
the “string pieces,” and for the time be- 
ing lay this cleat aside. Though it looks 
like round-about business to put the 
cleat on and then take it off again, the 
facts are that unless the screw holes 
are all made sure of before the can- 
vas is put on, you are almost sure to ruin 
a gimlet or maybe split one of the side 
pieces, if you do not start to put on the 
outside cleat until you have the cover 
on, for when the canvas is on it will hide 
the location of the screws which go 
through the side pieces into the ends of 
the “string piece.” 
With the outside of the cabinet clear 
of all cleats and projections put on 
‘your glue according to the directions 
on the tube and lay on the canvas. The 
eanvas will probably not match closely 
along the end edges, but this makes no 
difference, because your copper strips 
will take care of it. When the canvas 
and glue are dry, bend on the copper 
strips and fasten them with tacks. 
Page 27 
You now have left from your stock 
of materials, beside a few screws, two 
outside cleats, besides of course your 
hasp. 
Put one of these outside cleats across 
the front of the cabinet so that it is 
exactly over the inside cleat that goes 
across the front at the middle. Put 
the other cleat across the top of the 
front so that it forms a slot in which 







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Figure 2 
the upper half of the front section can 
slide up and down. Should the thick- 
ness of canvas cover the movable up- 
per front section and cause the section 
to bind, it will be best to shim up the 
cleat just far enough to admit of free 
movement. °* 
Now put the movable section in place 
and with brace and bit cut through it 
and the outside cleat the slot for the in- 
side hasp. Put on the hasp and the job 
is done except for varnishing. 
Those who want a more pleasing 
frase TPES yun 
piece of furniture will want in addition 
to the regular canvas covered front 
upper section, a supplementary upper 
front section of glass, which can be 
used at home. However, since guns are 
not apt to be injured by exposure to 
the air of the room in which gun cabi- 
nets are usually placed, the utility of 
the glass is problematical. 
If you have paid close attention to 
dimensions, not as stated, but as im- 
plied, it will be noted that the inside 
dimensions of the cabinet are eight 
inches for depth, twelve for width and 
fifty for length. These are ample for 
shotguns with 30 inch barrels, so far 
as length is concerned, and the width 
will accommodate four bolt actions 
without removal of bolts. The same 
cabinet with different spacings will ac- 
comodate an extra gun, provided there 
are no bolt actions or the bolts are re- 
moved. 
In using the cabinet on your running 
board or as a shipping case, always ob- 
serve the rule of ordinary packing, by 
folding a blanket or two and stuffing 
them in good and tight, so that they 
will act as cushions to the heavier con- 
tents. With this kind of a cabinet you 
can forget about the worry over the 
. possibility of arriving in woods or 
mountains with a fine checkered stock 
worn down until it looks like it had 
been sand-papered, or worse yet with 
sights knocked out of alignment or a 
fine barrel sprung. y R grarrorp, 
Colorado Springs, Col. 
Lodging for the Night 
[® caught away from camp over 
night, the quickest and easiest made 
shelter can be constructed in a few 
minutes with an axe. A _ thickly- 
branched evergreen furnishes all the 
material. Select one with branches 
very heavy at the roots. Chop nearly 
through about four feet from the 
ground, so that when the tree falls it 
will rest on the stump. Cut away the 
under branches, and use for a_ bed. 
Other branches may be used to thatch 
the shelter until it becomes nearly 
rainproof. There is room for several 
people under this shelter. A CAMPER. 
