
thus, molding the sheath to the exact 
shape of the blade. When thoroughly 
dried, he treated the sheath in oil. 
Numbers of his friends have followed 
his lead in having sheaths made in the 
same way. Though necessarily all 
hand work, the completed job cost only 
two dollars. He is sure if factory 
made, they could be retailed at 
a dollar-fifty, with the advantage 
to the dealer of a pleased pat- 
ronage. 
With regard to the standard 
‘ tube sheaths, such as used on the 
“Marble’s Ideai Pattern Knives,” 
there seems scope for little real 
improvement, though some sort 
of soft metal guard at the open 
edge to protect from cutting, on 
withdrawal of the blade, would 
be an advantage, as would also 
the substitution of a sewed, for 
the now commonly used, riveted 
belt-loop, for when in active ser- 
vice these rivets soon work Joose, 
and tear out. 
Now regarding axe sheaths, 
these seem generally built of 
leather altogether too soft, 
leather that will not long stand 
active service. Also (and far 
more important), rivets are al- 
most always used in joining the 
two halves in front of the cut- 
ting edge, and very shortly this 
edge works to the rivets, dulling, 
and sometimes even nicking the blade. 
In construction of my own sheath, 
I did away with these rivets, using the 
same method as previously described. 
I trust this experience will be of 
value and will lead perhaps to the 
advent of an improvement in factory- 
made sheath construction, thereby giv- 
ing to the sporting-goods dealer a new 
product to offer the trade, and this 
same trade the advantage of a better 
sheath. 
How to Build a Rowboat 
AKE for sides, two clear pine 
boards ™% in. thick, 12 ft. long and 
about 12 in. wide. A little wider will 
do no harm. Cut these boards so they 
will measure 12 ft. on one edge in 
f 

length, and 11 ft. 4 in. on the other 
edges, the bevel at the ends being ex- 
actly alike. 
Cut the third board, which should 
be 1% in. thick and 1 ft. wide, so it will 
measure 18 in. on one edge and a foot 
on the bottom. 
Now you are ready to start putting 
'2in 
A 
cs 
Details of auto water carrier. 
tne boat together: The plank is for 
the stern end of boat, the 42-1n. board 
simply for temporary use, to make the 
swell of the body. Put the stern plank 
in and hold it in place by screws put 
through the side pieces; then put in 
center board and bring the front ends 
together. and have some one hold them 
while the corners are reversed with a 
chisel. so as to make a good joint. 
Between the ends it is best to put in a 
piece of plank with one-half of sides 
cut away. so as to form a projection 
in front and shoulders for the extreme 
ends of the boards to set against. This 
is not necessary, however. The boards 
may come together and be firmly 
serewed in place from both sides, and 
then a cornerpiece fitued on inside and 
another row of screws driven through 
the sides into this, 
Top-bover rece % 
/21A 

os s 
[207fom bh ae fiace 
Now, finish fastening the stern end 
board and turn boat over. Use a plane 
to flatten the center into proper shape 
for resting on the water, and dress the 
edges all around so the bottom boards 
will fit snugly. Then saw off the pro- 
jections of wood at the sides. This 
boat will not leak after becoming water 
soaked, but in case of a leak from 
bad joints crowd in a little tow 
or hemp, made by scraping the 
end of a rope, and coat the ma- 
terial thoroughly with hot pitch 
or coal tar. Do not nail the bot- 
tom to the center board as that 
must come out. After bottom is 
fnished, turn boat right side up 
for completion. 
On the sides at the stern, screw 
2 cleats, 3 1n. from top, and fit 
in a seat. Do same at front, and 
put another in the center for the 
oarsman. Before putting in these 
seats, however, put in the long 
stay board. This stay board is 
to run through the center of the 
boat lengthwise and is to be a 
three-quarter stay board, 1 ft. 
wide. This had better be screwed 
down, as nails wili likely punch 
out pieces at the bottom. 
For oar-locks use upright pieces 
of boards, with hollowed ends. 
They are to be screwed to the 
inside of the planks at the proper 
points. 
The boat 1s all the better for being 
painted. To. prevent decay, coat the 
edges of the side planks with white lead 
paint before nailing bottom on and 
also sink the nail heads and paint and 
putty the holes. 
EDWARD C. WALDEYER, 
New York City. 
Landing Bass on a Paddle 
is a comparatively simple matter, pro- 
vided you work carefully. When the 
fish is well played out, draw it toward 
the paddle which is held over the side 
of the canoe. The bass will seek shelter 
under it. Gently manoeuvre the paddle 
around under the bass’ and with a 
steady motion lift the fish into the boat. 
So long as you move slowly, the bass 
will not kick or flop. 
Da 
477 
