SEPT. 21, 1907.] 
HORES TxAND STREAM. 
449 

reached into heaven’s very skies, and clad from 
base to summit in beautiful white, which sparkled 
Opposite us was Mt. 
and close by, Mt. Fairweather, each 
nearly sixteen thousand feet high, littiec 
further north was the queen of all of America’s 
peaks, Mt. St. Elias, over eighteen thousand feet 
high. Where was its summit? We could see a 
white mist reaching from the sky downward to 
/what we thought was its summit; but as the day 
lerew older the mist commenced to rise, but to 
lour wondering eyes it still obscured the top. 
Higher and higher it rose and at last it parted, 
showing us far up, almost in the sky, a pyramidal 
shape which dazzled the eyes with its whiteness. 
| What a sight! Well may this queen of peaks 
wear around her head a halo too beautiful for 
learthly hands to touch. As if pleased with the 
beautiful day and our admiring eyes, she lifted 
jer veil entirely, and held our attention until the 
sun sank behind the gold-rimmed ocean and we 
were, the captain said, two hundred miles from 
jand. The last sight was indeed the grandest of 
he day. Imagine, if you can, a huge pyramid 
“forty miles in diameter at the base and over four 
niles high, nestled among mountains, each a won- 
‘ler of nature’s grandeur in itself and all clothed 
a mantles of everlasting white. Bathe this moun- 
vain in reflections from thousands of rainbows and 
coloring to be 
brightest 
as to 
and shone in the sunlight. 
Grillon, 
and a 

\nirages, and imagine the entire 
ver changing, gilded with the sun’s 
ose and blended with azure so delicate 
ome only from the evening sky. Surmount this 
Jeene with white, fleecy clouds, each fringed with 
jose and gold, and you will have a faint picture 
if the beauty, such as was exposed to our won- 
‘lering and admiring gaze, even after our ship 
jvas in deep twilight. 
That day, we also 
‘shich is over eighty miles in width, and extends 
vland as far as the eye can reach, coming down 
etween the peaks which lay around, as if guard- 
hg their queen. 
The next morning we went on deck just as 
le steamer was approaching Kayak. Kayak ]s- 
ind is a small island lying about twenty miles 
‘rom the mainland and forty miles south of the 
opper River delta. The town of Kayak is a 
jnall mining camp concealed so well in a bay 
hat we could not see it. Our ship had to an- 
jor about fifteen miles out, as the water is shal- 
w and shifting sandbars make dangerous navi- 
iting. We had to wait several hours for a small 
g to come out after our passengers and freight, 
id while waiting, passed the time talking and 
aking signs to the numerous Indians, who came 
it in their canoes with bear skins, gulls’ eggs 
d curios to sell. Sea-gull eggs closely resemble 
Irkey eggs in size and color, and are used in 
‘eat quantities by Indians and whites. As we 
me to our anchorage we passed a large rock 
tached from the island and several acres in 
re, which was covered with short grass and 
pss and so thickly covered by gulls on their 
sts, that at first it seemed to be covered with 
saw the Malispina Glacier, 
ow. 
The scenery was very fine, as we were opposite 
glacier, forty miles wide and several hundred 
+t high, the peaks sparkling in the morning sun, 
iking a picturesque background for the lower 
ts covered with a green vegetation and the 
iter ruffled only by the Indian canoes and 
tted with innumerable ducks and gulls. 
After unloading our freight we turned north 
ain and had a fine view of the Copper River 

delta, with half a dozen live and dying glaciers 
higher up on the mountain slopes. An 
syndicate has purchased several thousand 
the coal and oil land in the Copper River 
and has a large force of men at work develop- 
William Sound, 
of water surrounded by the main- 
with several busy mining towns 
English 
acres of 
valley 
ing it. We soon entered Prince 
a large body 
land and islands, 
and paying salmon canneries. 
A large shoal of porpoise caught sight of our 
ship and soon the water churned to foam 
by thousands of them, as they raced along, first 
one way and then another, half out of water and 
with lightning-like speed. Suddenly one 
disappeared at the same moment as mysteriously 
as they had come, and really it seemed as if they 
had been an escort sent by old King Neptune to 
was 
every 
welcome us into the sound. 
We stopped late that day at Nuchek, an In- 
dian village, where an old Dutch squaw-man had 
been living for twenty-eight years, and was looked 
upon by the Indians as their head man or gov- 
known by all navigators in 
those waters and our captain had brought up a 
sewing machine for him, the first that had 
been seen there. The old man came out in a dory 
rowed by two of not than ten 
years old but perfectly at home in a boat. The 
ereasy- 
ernor. He is well 
ever 
his sons more 
old man was fat and jolly, but was very 
looking and smelled strongly of dried 
bear’s meat. After a chat with the 
climbed down the rope ladder and 
shore, sitting on his machine and looking as 
happy as a lark. He was probably thinking of 
the joy and surprise it would give his wife, as no 
doubt she had a hard time sewing for the twen- 
ty-eight children the captain said he had. I 
would like to have been present next day when 
the old man explained its uses to the villagers. 
Our next stop was at Orca, where we disem- 
for another and 
destination. 
salmon and 
captain, he 
started for 
barked and had to wait six days 
smaller steamer to take us to 
The location of Orca is ddmirably fitted for the 
purpose of the company to which it belongs. A 
extends out from a mountain so 
scale its sides, and 
our 
narrow beach 
steep that a goat could not 
the beach abruptly terminates at each end in a 
The whole flat is owned by the com- 
competition at 
steep cliff. 
pany, which 
that place. It is station, 
with connecting companies’ Chinese 
post office and lumber yard, and 
forever excludes all 
really a cannery 
hotel, 
only 
stores, 
boarding house, 
of course, is an ideal place for a transfer point 
to other boats, as every cent spent for any pur- 
pose goes direct into the company’s locker. 
The canning season was at its height and sixty- 
five Chinese, besides a dozen Indians and white 
men, were working eighteen hours a day to keep 
up with the sixty fishermen, who were having a 
good run and sending in an average of 25,000 
some of them being the king sal- 
to seventy pounds 
but did not believe 
the king “sal- 
served 
salmon a day, 
mon, which weigh from thirty 
I had eaten salmon for years, 
they could taste as delicious as 
mon bellies’ with which the 
us. All the fish came from the Copper River 
delta and were caught in gill nets, as the govern- 
ment does not allow hauling. They are 
sent to the cannery in flat-bottom stern-wheelers, 
which draw only about three feet of water when 
loaded with 20,000 fish. The cannery could not 
keep up with the fishermen, and about 8,000 fine 
salmon were thrown away cre morning to make 
fresh ones com- 
hotel cook 
seine 
room on the fish dock for the 
ing in. 
I was very much surprised at the cleanliness 
the canned. After being 
cleaned and washed they were put through the 
packing machine and not a hand touched them. 
the Chinamen, who 
with which fish were 
It was wonderful to watch 
each with his particular 
last day on earth. 
task, work- 
ing as if it was They 
worked under a Chinese boss who was the only 
are adepts, 
his 
one out of the sixty-five who could speak a word 
of English. He hires or “shang-hires” the Chi- 
namen from San Francisco as cheaply as he can, 
and gets paid so much for each case put up. The 
company always has to guarantee him so many 
cases, as he never loses, and when they have 
good runs of fish he works his men night and 
day and makes very large sums of money. The 
boss at Orca and his brother have charge of 
several cannery crews, and I was told by good 
that they would make at least $20,000 
season we were there, and 
authority 
the 
four months. 
After examining the 
enough questions to make the 
season is only 
cannery from ground floor 
to roof and asking 
business, we 
hands, 
boss think we were going into the 
hanging heavily on 
jail ground, as 
found the time our 
borrowed a boat to get off the 
it—for that is the only 
several trips 
into the 
fishing 
way one can 
the 
mountains. 
We from the 
wharves, Nearly 
every day some Indians would come in their ba- 
da-ka’s or skin canoes with bear skins and meat 
I ate my first bear meat there and found 
we called 
off—and took along coast, 
little expedition 
amused 
catching large cod and halibut. 
get 
making a 
also ourselves by 
to sell. 
it very tender and nice. 
sea-gull eggs, which 
differ greatly in taste from duck eggs. 
Two incidents happened to slightly 
One was a fight between 
men who had drunk much 
hooch. One used two large salmon knives and 
the other his fists, and His legs 
proved his best defense and took him out of the 
the ground cooled and 
The other instance was 
Two In- 
dock 
low 
[ also enjoyed scrambled 
are very rich, but do not 
break the 
two can- 
monotony. 
too Indian 
nery 
legs stones. 
other man’s reach until 
the hooch lost its effect. 
large ground shark. 
were on the 
during 
the killing of a 
dians and 
their rifles shooting at a 
when the shark came nosing along, and was so 
busily occupied that he forgot how close to land 
that his back was sticking out of 
The bullets repeating 
large caliber fatal 
He tried to sheer off into deeper water, 
bullets keeled him over. 
finally 
with 
tide, 
white man 
target 
he was and 
the water. 
rifles of 
mistake. 
but some fifty 
A two-inch rope, 
placed around his tail by two men in a boat, ‘and 
from three 
warned him of his 
or more 
somewhat worn, was 
as the cannery men were passing by on their 
way to supper, they stopped, and all taking hold 
of the rope, hauled him into shallow water. 
Somebody wanted to pull him entirely out and 
gave the signal for a great tug on the line. They 
save it with a will, the rope parted and there 
was a mix-up of at least seventy-five Indians, 
Chinese and white men. The shark was about 
twenty feet long and would weigh two tons. 
The Indians soon cut it open and took out its 
liver in two pieces, each seven feet long, to 
make into oil. The balance was left to the tide 
to dispose of. 
We were getting very 
but awoke one fine morning and found her along~ 
anxious about our boat, 
side the dock. Our freight was put aboard, and 
we made fine time through the remainder of 
Prince William Sound. On the second day we 

