PRINCIPLES OF DAHLIA CULTURE 
SOIL. Any type soil is suitable or may be made so. If too heavy with clay, sand may be added 
—not too coarse. Humus is very important. Peat moss, compost or purchased humus may 
be added. Since most soil is deficient in humus, one cannot go far wrong in adding it, pref- 
erably in the fall or very early spring. For the midwest, rye is almost the only successful 
cover crop; sow after Dahlias have been dug and plow under in the spring while still tender, 
before heads have well developed. If allowed to get too old and tough ploughed-under 
rye may ruin your soil for a season. When weather and soil are right, plow deeply a few 
weeks before planting. 
In many of the heavy soils in this section drainage is most important. Deep plowing, suf- 
ficient sand and humus to make the soil porus should suffice, but locations are found where 
tile drainage is necessary to protect against very heavy rainy spells. 
Dahlias do well in a neutral to fairly acid soil. Liming however will do no harm and some- 
times much good by releasing nutrient ingredients of the soil. 
FERTILIZING. Nitrogen produces rank foliage and flowers. Phosphates produces tuber growth 
and fibrous roots. Potash makes for color of bloom and resistance of plants to disease. Any 
application of fertilizer should be well mixed with about 1000 times its weight of soil to 
prevent burning of fibrous roots. We use 2-10-6 (nitrogen-phosphat-potash) with our plant- 
ing. Fertilizers mixed with soil at planting is the most efficient method. Top dressing is 
effective with potash and nitrogen but the phosphates do not get down to the roots until 
plowed under. 
Manure is doubly important as a fertilizer and supplyer of humus. Chicken manure should 
be applied sparingly or composted before using. Leaves composted till decayed are a valuable 
source of both humus and fertilizing elements. Most soils are deficient in potash, which may 
be supplied in wood ashes, muriate or sulphate of potassium. 
It is better to use some reliable brand of mixed fertilizer at about six pounds for every 
ten to twelve hills of dahlias, well mixed with plenty of soil than to use a chemical fer- 
tilizer like sodium nitrate for it takes a chemist to know how little to use. 
PLANTING. Thorough plowing or spading, with soil dry enough to break up well is the best 
preparation. April 15th to July 1st depending on the season is right for Ohio Valley. For 
cut-flowers plant as early as soil and season dictates. For exhibition, June Ist is right. In 
general, 4 ft. apart each way is a good rule. For the home garden 4 or 5 stakes should be 
provided. 4 by 5 ft. with two plants to a stake is also good. Roots should be 4 in. deep, 
set horizontally, in heavy soil and 6 in. deep in very sandy soil. Plants should be moistened 
and planted without disturbing the roots, about one-half inch deeper than they were in 
the pot. Water thoroughly. Plants will produce more plump tubers in a lean farm soil 
than in a rich garden. For best tuber production, let the soil dry out well between waterings. 
DISBUDDING. This operation is valuable for the production of the best flowers and stems for 
either cutting or exhibition. Take out the ‘“‘suckers” or small laterals for two or three nodes 
or joints (where leaf joins stalk) down from the terminal bud, starting with the first 
or crown bud of the plant. Cut bloom before back is wilted, thus stimulating development 
of fresh growth, buds and flowers. Visit us in July and August and we will give you a 
practical demonstration. 
WATERING. In protracted drought the foilage should be well and forcibly sprayed with water 
to prevent red spider. In general, do not water till the ground becomes fairly dry and then 
soak to a good depth. When surface shows cracks and is dry enough, use rake or hoe to pro- 
vide dust mulch to conserve soil moisture. A light daily watering is unnecessary and even 
injurious. 
Always water during the heat of the day, spraying foliage with cold water. This will not 
burn the plants, and is the best way to fight sucking insects such as leaf hopper, ete. 
CULTIVATING. Working the ground between plants is beneficial to keep weeds in control 
and conserve soil moisture in dry weather. Dahlias will respond to cultivation whenever 
soil conditions are suitable. As plants grow larger, cultivation should be shallower so as not 
to cut surface feeder roots. Tie plants to stakes, once for every 18 inches of growth. 
DIGGING should be about November 1st to 15th regardless of date of killing frost. Dig with- 
out bending or breaking necks of tubers. Cut stalk to within 2 inches of roots. Store in 
cool cellar immediately after digging, packing in peat moss, clean sawdust, sand or other 
suitable material. If tubers have been well nourished with balanced fertilizer and not over- 
fertilized and season has been such as to properly develop and ripen tubers, they will keep 
well. Big thick stems are more conducive to crown or stem rot than slimmer stems grown 
on leaner soils. Farm grown, not heavily fertilized, not watered dahlias, produce more tubers 
that almost always keep well through winter. 
DIVIDING. In the spring divide clumps by splitting the stem and crown so as to leave one 
eye or sprout to each division of one or more roots. 
Twenty-one ~ 
