Potting Directions. Be sure drainage is perfect, by placing broken crock over hole 
and over that smaller pieces or gravel. 
The soil should permit water to pass thru easily. Rich, sandy garden loam and 
humus in equal parts is best. For the humus, combine peat, well rotted dairy manure 
and leaf mould. For acid loving plants use more peat. Bone-meal, a rounded table- 
spoonful to a 6” pot, thoroly mixed in is valuable to, bulbs. 
Some large bulbs, like Amaryllis, Crinums or Veltheimia may be potted with half 
the bulb above the soil surface. But some of them do better (and all will do well) with the 
bulb just covered. Smaller bulbs like Cyrtanthus, Ranunculus or Zepthyranthes should 
be about %” to 1” deep. If there are no living roots, dust the base of bulb with Rootone 
for surer, quicker growth. 
When potted, firm the soil around the bulb and water once. Set the pot in a cool 
room. Before they start, too much heat and moisture will often rot the bulbs. Usually 
no more water is needed to start growth but the soil should not be completely dry at 
base of bulb. When growth begins, gradually increase the heat and moisture. 
Size of pot should be about 2 or three times the diameter of the bulb. 
Temperature. The hot, dry air of living rooms is often not best for either plants or 
people. For bulbs it should be not often over 70°, and at night not below 35° to 40°. 
Most of them like cool rooms. Many bulbs, like Freesias, fail because of too much heat. 
Amaryllis like more warmth when started. 
Arrangement of this Catalog 
is by plant Families, rather than alphabetically. Customers have approved this plan 
because of the increased information possible. It requires a little more study to locate a 
desired bulb but we try to make the catalog worth your careful study. It is better to 
save all catalogs as the culture suggestions are frequently revised or presented in a dif- 
ferent way. There are no “authorities” on culture that are equal to your experience. 
Our 1942 Fall Catalog contains much culture information omitted in this. If you do 
not have it it is free for a stamp. Keep all our catalogs in your garden library. 
THE AMARYLLIS FAMILY—Amaryllidaceae 
This family includes the bulbs from Agapanthus and thru The Alliae. 
The American Amaryllis Society is an association of those thruout the world who 
grow Amaryllids as an interesting and intellectual hobby. An annual book “Herbertia’’ 
of about 250 pages is sent to each member. Therein is discussed the best culture methods; 
descriptions of new species; notes on Amaryllids in their habitat; reports on experiments 
in crossing, in culture, propagation, etc. Herbertia is the essential book of reference on 
Amaryllids. Beautifully illustrated. I invite you to send me $2.00 for membership. You 
will receive volume 9 of Herbertia for 1942 as soon as published. It is now on the press. 
Bulb lovers who specialize in the Amaryllis Family would enjoy having the com- 
plete set of 8 vol. of Herbertia 1934 to 1941 inclusive. Price $23.50, postpaid. Several 
issues will soon be out of print and never again available. 
How to Grow Amaryllis. This discussion includes not only the genus Hippeastrum, 
which recently botanists have changed to the old popular name of Amaryllis, but will 
also include the entire family of Amaryllids. 
Such winter growing Amaryllids as Callicore rosea, Haemanthus coccineus, Hippe- 
astrum advenum, Lycoris, all species, Nerines and Sternbergias should be ordered now 
or by early spring. Thus we can send them as soon as dormant. That is the correct 
time to move them. If moved next fall they may not flower. 
Hardiness. Most Amaryllids listed are hardy in the far south. Amaryllis, Cooperia, 
Amarcrinum, Agapanthus, Callicore, Cooperia, Crinums, Habranthus, Hymenocallis, Ly- 
coris, Pancratiums, Sprekelia, Sternbergia and Zephyranthes are hardy on the coasts to 
North Carolina and to Vancouver. Inland, most of them have been grown with protec- 
tion at Washington, D. C., parts of Arkansas and the middle south. In this border line, 
of 
