plant deeper and in a protected location like the south side of house or wall. Mulch 
well in winter or cover with cold frame. Hippeastrums (Amaryllis) are unlikely to sur- 
vive in the outside garden at temperatures below 20°. 
Winter hardy in the north are Crinum longifolia, Lycoris squamigera, L. incarnata, 
and Leucojums. Only slightly less hardy are Crinums moorei, Cecil Houdyshel and 
Powelli. In milder sections, plant deep and mulch well with brush. 
Most Amaryllids are gross feeders. Properly used, animal manures are best. 
Amaryllis (or Hippeastrum) Hybrids. 
When bulbs are received, pot at once. Be ready with soil and pots in advance. If 
received in the fall, many living roots will be attached, and often a few even in late 
winter. Remove only dead roots and ends and carefully spread out all live roots when 
potting. Even if no roots remain, they will grow and flower tho foliage may be pro- 
duced later. 
Spring potted bulbs will root much more quickly and easily if the base of the bulb 
is dusted with Rootone. (Send 50c for % oz.) 
A bulb under 3” diam. needs a 6” pot. Larger bulbs should have a 7” to 8” pot 
in proportion to the size. 
The best potting soil is a friable loam, avoiding heavy clay soils.. To this add an 
equal volume of the following mixture composed of equal parts of sand, well rotted cow 
manure, rotted leaf mould and peat. Best to rub thru a screen to make fine and mix 
thoroly. Leaf mould may replace peat. Bone meal is recommended, | tablespoonful to 
each pot. Mix all thoroly. 
Pot the bulb with neck and upper bulb surface exposed. Water well but after that 
keep the soil only slightly moist until growth starts, then gradually increase. When first 
potted set the bulbs in a cool, light room. The best temperature now is 45° or 50°. 
Later the pots may be removed to a room of about 60°. Buds will usually have shown. 
After flowering, the bulbs will be shrunken and perhaps soft. A period of growth 
is necessary to fill them out and increase their size. If good growth is made at this 
important stage the bulb will be much larger than in the preceding year and offsets may 
be made. It is necessary to keep them growing for as long as possible. When the 
weather is warm outside the pots may be plunged in the garden or the bulbs with entire, 
unbroken clump of roots and earth may be removed from pot and reset. Bulbs may be 
planted in full sun, but slight shade is good where very hot summers prevail. When 
bulbs are well established give liberal mulchings of dairy manure. Use stable manure 
carefully. It is good but very strong. Before heavy frost remove to house. Allow them 
a rest for several weeks but do not allow pots to dry out completely. The temperature 
of 45° checks growth. When you want them to start, bring to 60° and water a little. 
You can become expert in obtaining flowers every year. 
Other Amaryllids. Further culture advice is given, where necessary, with the 
descriptions. 
List of Amaryllids 
Agapanthus. Blue Lily of the Nile. The name means Love Flower. Blooms in 
late spring and summer. Large, most attractive flower umbels on tall, erect stems. Uni- 
versal favorites in south and easily grown in north in tubs or buckets, wintered in base- 
ment. Half shade to full sun. 
Agapanthus Africanus, var. Mooreanus minor. A dwarf form especially suited to 
pot culture. Lovely blue umbels on 18” stem. Likes good garden loam, partial shade. 
Deciduous, but should not be entirely dry over winter. 35c ea. 4 bulbs for a 6” pot, $1.25. 
A. longispathus. New species. Flowers resemble Orientalis but blooms more _pro- 
fusely and is more graceful. 75c. 3 for $2.00. 
A. orientalis (umbellatus). Our variety is an especially fine one with deepest blue 
flowers on a tall stem. Many flowers are produced in spring and thru summer. 50c. 
Extra large roots, 75c. 
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