Cultural Directions for Knott's Berry Plants 
Moisture Requirements 
IRRIGATION—(For sections where irrigation 
is necessary.) No set rules can be laid down 
which will hold good in all cases because of 
the difference in climate and soil. We irri- 
gate about once each week during the pick- 
ing season and about once in three or four 
weeks during the balance of the year, except 
in the rainy season. Some soils will require 
water more often than this, especially for 
strawberries. Give them a thorough irrigation 
when you do irrigate. The one main consid- 
eration is to keep your plants growing thrifty 
through the entire summer. We have to get 
a large vine growth in order to be able to get 
a heavy crop, so if it takes more water to get 
a vigorous vine growth, use it. Water well 
at the end of the picking season and again 
immediately after pruning, which should be 
done just as soon as the crop is picked. This 
gives the vines a good thrifty start at a time 
in the summer when they will grow very fast. 
Insufficient amount of water given plants is 
the cause of more short crops of berries than 
any other cause. Remember that the roots of 
your berries are longer than the canes above 
the ground and if you irrigate in a little basin 
around the plant and leave the surrounding 
ground dry, the roots will be restricted to the 
When 
irrigating be sure the ground will be thor- 
little area of wet dirt in the basin. 
oughly soaked several feet each side of your 
plants. Then watch them grow! 
Plant Early as Possible 
TIME TO PLANT—Strawberries 
planted any time from October until April. All 
may be 
varieties of bush berries should be planted 
after the first of January 
and before the 
April. 
last of 
Occasionally we 
have seen fair results ob- 
tained, if the conditions 
were all favorable, when 
planted even later, but we 
do not recommend it. Dur- 
ing the usual season and 
under average conditions, 
February is the one best 
month for planting all kinds 
of berries in California, 
Plant as early in the spring 
as the weather in your 
locality will permit. 
Constructing the Trellis 
TRELLISING—It pays to use posts made 
from the kinds of wood which is known to 
last well in the ground. In California, Red 
wood is the best material for posts. Do not 
use pine, for many of the posts will rot off 
in one year and will cause you no end of 
trouble later. All lumber dealers either have 
in stock, or can order 6 ft. 2x2” split Red- 
wood grape stakes, which make the best and 
most economical posts for berry trellises. Split 
stakes or posts are better than sawed posts 
because they do not have knots. They are 
already sharpened and can be driven in soft 
ground, 
Use heavy end posts and stretch the wires 
the length of the rows. The end posts should 
be anchored or well braced, for all of the 
pull comes on them and the wires should be 
tight. It is better to tie your wire around the 
end posts than to staple it. On the inside 
posts it is better to set them corner-wise with 
the row, and saw notches about an inch deep, 
slanting down for the wires to rest in. The 
lower wire should be on one side of the post 
and the upper wire on the other. This makes 
a cheap durable trellis, which is easy to take 
down. If you wish (as often happens) your 
trellis to be higher after the first year, alb you 
have to do is to saw notches higher on the 
posts and raise the wires up, and there will 
be no staples to pull. 
We space the redwood posts about 30 feet 
apart. After the wire is stretched and fas- 
tened up to the posts where we want it, we 
put a spreader between each post. This con- 
sists of two laths, one on each side of the 
wires, with a small nail driven through them 
A GOOD TRELLIS 
This bush happened to have only five canes, all of which were long ones. If your bushes 
have more strong canes it is advantageous to leave more canes per hill. 

and clinched just below each wire. This pre- 
vents the wires from sagging or being drawn 
together when the canes are wound up on 
We use No. 13 galvanized wire on 
top, and No. 14 below. 
them. 
Boysenberries 
(These directions are the same for Logan- 
berries, Youngberries, etc.) 
The best time to set out the plants is Janu- 
ary, February and March in California, and as 
early in the spring as the land can be worked 
in the colder sections. Most seasons February 
is the ideal time in California. With irriga- 
tion the rows may be spaced six feet apart 
and the plants set six feet apart in the rows. 
Without irrigation we believe that eight-foot 
Do not 
This 
is a very exceptional berry, for even though 
spacing each way will be better. 
crowd them, for they make big vines. 
it produces an enormous crop still the berries 
are very large, and by very large we mean 
BIG; bigger, we are sure, than anything you 
have grown or seen before. But in order to | 
get both very large berries and a big crop 
there must be something put in the ground to 
produce them, so keep them well fertilized 
and be surprised and happy with the results. 
After your plants have started to grow well, 
if manure is available, it will be a great help 
if you will scatter 10 or 15 pounds of chicken 
manure or 20 or 25 pounds of barnyard 
manure per plant between the rows and work 
it into the ground. If manure is not easily 
available about one pound per plant of fish- 
meal, bloodmeal, tankage, or mixed fertilizer 
scattered or drilled in, about a foot from the 
plants after they have started to grow, will 
make them grow big, strong vines the first 
year. You should strive to get a heavy vine 
the first summer in order to support a maxi- 
mum crop the next season, 
Then in early spring an- 
other application of ferti- 
lizer about as suggested 
above should be given. 
This is for the fruit. 
If to be grown in an 
irrigated country they 
should be well watered 
during spring and summer 
while the crop is develop- 
ing and being harvested. 
The first season the 
vines can be left on the 
ground, and as the canes 
