grow, they can be pushed back in line with 
the rows so that cultivation can continue. In 
the colder section of the midwest and east 
some growers report they have found it bene- 
ficial to mulch the canes through the winter. 
It is important to put a little of the mulching 
material under the vines, to keep them from 
getting imbedded in the mud when freezing 
and thawing starts in the spring, as well as 
covering them. Corn stalks, straw or leaves 
seem to make satisfactory mulch material. 
Some growers have reported their plants un- 
injured after temperatures as low as 20 degrees 
below zero, even though they were not mulched. 
In the spring as soon as the leaf buds begin 
to open, the vines should be put on trellis. 
We use two wires, one about two feet from the 
No. 
good. The vines are wrapped around these 
ground, the other four feet. 13 wire is 
wires in loose spirals (see picture on other side 
of the folder). 
When the crop is all picked, the old canes 
that have borne fruit should be cut off the 
trellis and back to the ground and burned. 
By that time the new canes, which are your 
fruit wood for the next season, will be several 
feet long, ara these new canes are allowed 
to grow on the ground until the following 
spring and are then put up on the trellis at 
the end of the dormant season as before. 
PRUNING IN GENERAL — All varieties of 
berries except Himalaya blackberries bear 
next year on the wood that grew this year, so 
the first season there is little or no pruning 
needed. You simply set your plants in the 
spring and the wood which grows that sum- 
mer will bear your crop next summer. 
Then when growth starts each spring there 
will be new canes start which will grow while 
your crop is being picked. When you are 
through picking you SAVE these NEW canes 
and cut out all the old ones from which you 
have just picked your crop. 
TEXAS WONDER, MACATAWA, BLACK- 
BERRIES and BLACKRASPBERRIES will sprawl 
on the ground the first year (if not tied up to 
trellis) but will grow in bushes after first year. 
Just before you start picking these varieties 
top the new wood (Texas Wonder about 3 ft. 
and Macatawa about 4 ft. high). These main 
canes will branch out and form the bushes 
for the following season. The laterals forming 
this bushy top are then headed back about 
half during the dormant season to form com- 
pact bushes. 
BLACKRASPBERRIES are pruned like bush 
type blackberries as described above. 
FERTILIZATION—The suggestions on fertil- 
izing Boysenberries applies equally to other 
varieties of bushberries. 
SPRAYING—In California the one important 
and necessary spraying for all kinds of bush 
Use 
ordinary commercial liquid lime-sulphur 1 gal. 
and vine berries is with lime-sulphur. 
to 10 gal. water or 1 lb. dry powdered lime- 
sulphur to six gallons water. Spray very 
thoroughly on both sides of the row when the 
vines are dry. 
TIME OF SPRAYING IS IMPORTANT — It 
should be done just when the LEAF buds are 
starting to open in spring. If the leaves are 
opened out more than three-quarters of an 
inch this spray will burn them. This spraying 
is primarily for blister mite, which causes cer- 
tain sections of the fruit to remain red and 
never ripen. However, it also goes a long 
way in controlling thrip, scale and even helps 
control red spider later in season. Pests which 
annoy the berry grower varies in different 
parts of the country, consequently spray prac- 
tices vary. One thing sure, this lime-sulphur 
spray as recommended above will help any- 
where, even though for special pests you 
should also have to use something else. In 
some districts regular use of Beaurdaux is 
recommended for cane diseases. This material 
can be secured from any spray material deal- 
BOYSENBERRIES 
BI 1 
) 
) 
er together with directions (for mixing and ap- 
plying for various troubles. 
ASPARAGUS—Should be planted 12 or 15 
inches apart in trenches 6 or 8 inches deep. 
The roots are spread out flat in bottom of 
trench, some going each way, and covered 
about 2 inches deep. The trench is then filled 
in as the plants grow. No asparagus should 
be cut the first summer but the stalks should 
be allowed to grow up tall so the roots will 
be established. In the early winter when the 
tops turn yellow they are cut to the ground 
and the asparagus should be well manured. 
The next spring you can use asparagus 
for 2 or 3 weeks and should then let the tops 
mature as before and the next spring you can 
cut for 4 to 6 weeks and then by the follow- 
ing year your asparagus should be well estab- 
lished and you can cut for about 12 weeks 
each summer, but always remember to quit 
cutting in time for the tops to grow up and 
Use 
It pays to dust 
revitalize the roots for another season. 
plenty of manure each fall. 
the tall tops with dry sulphur two or three 
times while growing up each summer to pre- 
vent a possible attack of rust. 
CHERRY RHUBARB— Should be set 4 tt. 
apart and given plenty of manure or fertilizer 
after they have started to grow. No rhubarb 
should be picked) until the following spring in 
cold sections and not until September in Calli- 
fornia the first year. 
In picking rhubarb you should remember 
that it is not a fruit you are picking but the 
plant itself, so there must be time between 
pickings for the plants to recuperate. For 
instance, if you have five plants, it is much 
better for your plants and you will get much 
more crop in the long run, if you will pick 
one plant until it is all picked and then go 
to another and use it until it is all gone and 
so on down the row, getting back to the first 
one in 8 or 10 weeks, than to pick a little 
from each plant each week. 

