2 HAND BOOK FOR THE GARDEN 

from paths across the rows and turning spaces should be provided 
at the ends. For hand cultivation the garden may be laid off in sec- 
tions and the rows can be much closer together. In any case, the 
garden should always be laid out in straight rows. Even when one 
does all cultivation by hand, a wheel hoe can be pushed through them 
easily, thus reducing the work. 
PLAN 
Much loss of time can be avoided by making a definite plan of 
the garden some time before the planting is to begin. The area de- 
voted to the hotbed, cold frame and seed bed should be decided upon. 
The location of permanent crops, such as asparagus and rhubarb, 
step bk? perennial flowers and shrubs should all be provided for 
n the plan. 
SUCCESSION OF CROPS 
Nature provides for more than one crop on the same soil but it 
is better not to have a second planting of any crop follow the first. 
Vegetables which reach maturity early in the season should be fol- 
lowed by later kinds. For instance radishes may be followed by 
cabbage, eauliflower, tomatoes; early carrots by late beans or corn. 
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 
Autumn is the time for plowing hard or stiff clay soils, especially 
in the climate where the frost will break the soil into fine particles 
during the winter and render it suitable for planting. Sandy loams 
and soils that contain a large amount of humus may be plowed in 
the spring. The work should be done early so that the soil may settle 
before planting. In a small garden the spade may be used instead of 
the plow, in which case it is important that the soil be turned over 
to the full depth of the spade and not just a few inches on the surface. 
TIME OF PLANTING 
Because of our large country and its several climatic zones, we 
list planting time for northern states only. It is quite an accepted 
rule to plant 10 days earlier for each 100 miles south of Minnesota. 
When heavy frosts are over, plant early peas, onion sets and seed, 
kale, lettuce and spinach. 
When frosts are about over plant radishes, parsnips, carrots, 
beets, late peas and early sweet corn, and set out cabbage, and cauli- 
flower plants. An old and useful rule is to ‘‘plant corn when the oak 
leaves are the size of a squirrel’s ear.’’ 
When all frosts are over and apple trees are in bud, plant string 
beans and late sweet corn, and set out early tomato plants from the 
indoor boxes. 
When apple trees blossom plant cucumbers, melons, squashes, 
lima beans and set out the rest of the plants. 
Trees, shrubs, vines and dormant roses should be set out as early 
as conditions will permit, before the leaf buds open. Plant strawberry 
plants as soon as danger from severe frosts is past and Peonies, Iris, 
Phlox and other perennials should be planted under the same con- 
ditions. Gladiolus bulbs and Dahlias should not be planted until the 
soil is quite warm. 
Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissus and other spring blooming bulbs 
must be planted in the autumn. 
