No Rationing of Vegetables Grown at 
45 
— 
Your Kitchen Door! 

on edi s 
Many of you who never have grown vege- 
tables, know that food rationing makes 
it vital this year to grow some vegetables 
for summer use and to can for winter. 
To emphasize the ease with which a child can grow 
excellent vegetables of marketable quality, I am calling 
your attention to a young friend of mine, Charles A. 
Collier, Jr., 4650 Dover Road, a 7th grade pupil in 
suburban North Olmsted school. Here he is, husking 
some of the 304 dozen ears of Templin-Bradley’s 
Hybrid Bantam Sweet Corn which he grew in 1942. 
Charles, not quite 13, has interested.me greatly as I 
have watched him advance from a small garden plot to 
the complete handling of about 4 acres, with the help of 
his garden tractor. He ran a chart of results all summer. 
Family Total 
Used Sold Harvested 
Sweet Corn, ears 1422 2226 3648 
Tomatoes, bushels 5) 65 70 
Cucumbers, pecks 5% 42 474% 
Egg Plant, bushels ¥% 13% 14 
Peppers, pecks 4 35% 39% 
Squash, Acorn, bushels 7 12 19 
Insh Potatoes, bushels 2 1% 3% 
Sweet Potatoes, bushels 10 iL alt 
Beans, pecks 6 13 19 
Cabbage, bushels 4 0 4 
Carrots, bushels 10 0 10 
Pumpkins, bushels 2 2 4 
Onions, pounds 40 0 40 
Swiss Chard, bushels 5 0 5 
Spinach, bushels 2 0 2 
Beets, bushels 1 0 1 
Rutabagas, bushels 3 0 3 
Lima Beans, bushels 1 0 1 
I saw the progress of Charles’ work last summer and 
know that this would have been an inspiration to you 
if you could have seen it. I just hope this report will 
inspire you to grow vegetables for your own table use 
this year. 
Floyd Bradley 

Growing the Finest Vegetables 
The greatest pleasure from a vegetable garden comes in having the proper varieties 
and having a good succession of plantings. Many varieties must have an earlier start 
than they get if planted directly in the garden, some of these are Cabbage, Cauli- 
flower, Celery, Egg Plant, Peppers, Tomatoes and Lettuce for very early crop. Plants 
for these should be started inside. Below we give you some hints on how to do this 
successfully. 
A little practice will make it easy for you to grow plants. 
f you have a hotbed, that is the ideal place to do all 
such work. A hotbed is really a greenhouse on a modi- 
fied scale. 
Many of you will be content at first with a window box 
or flat for starting early seeds. Fill this box with fine 
soil—a mixture of equal parts of good garden soil and 
clean sand will be perfectly satisfactory. Sift it to get 
out all coarse particles and stones. 
Moisten the soil—but do not have it wet. Sow the seed 
in rows in the box and barely cover the fine seed. If you 
start several varieties in the same box be sure to mark 
them in some way as it is easy to forget the names. Drop 
the seed right on the surface and press it in with the 
edge of a stick or sprinkle some loose soil over it 
‘Until the seedling plants appear lay a newspaper or a 
pane of glass over the box to prevent the rapid evapora- 
tion of the moisture. Keep the box in a room tempera- 
ture 60° to 70° Fahrenheit. A sunny window is an ideal 
Vegetables Are Easy to Raise 
One of the first things that is necessary in order te have 
a successful garden is to get your soil in the right con- 
dition. The better your soil is prepared, the more suc- 
cessful your garden will be. The ideal garden soil is the 
kind that is known as Clay Loam. It contains enough of 
the fine sand, so that it is easily spaded or broken up, 
and is supplied with enough humus, or organic matter 
to keep furnishing the food elements that the plants 
need, as well as to absorb and to hold the proper amount 
of moisture. In a finely worked soil seeds will germinate 
more quickly, the plants will have better root systems, 
the plant food will be assimilated by the plants much 
more readily and the garden will be much easier to 
cultivate. 
place. As the little plants grow do not let them over- 
crowd each other. Thin them out and transplant some 
to another box or into flower pots or pans. Almost with- 
out exception plants are benefitted by at least one 
transplanting before the final setting out. This has a 
tendency to make many more fine short roots rather 
than few long straggly ones. The plant is much better 
able to stand the strain of moving outdoors and making 
rapid, steady growth with this kind of a root system to 
start with. 
During the time the plants are growing in the box keep 
the soil moist—but not wet. Simply the fact that the 
surface is dry is no cause for alarm. Dig into the soil 
with the finger and if you do not find it moist % inch 
down, it is time for water. As the plants grow and the 
time for setting out approaches, open the window near 
the box during the warm part of the day and even set 
the box outdoors for a few hours at a time, This will 
“harden them off” getting them accustomed to cooler 
conditions. It really toughens the plant fibres, 
Vegetables to Sell for Profit 
Many of our customers who have always grown their 
own vegetables in order to have them fresh for their 
tables have found that their neighbors who did not grow 
vegetables were glad to secure them direct from the 
garden and have been able to dispose of their surplus 
with no trouble and with a nice little profit to them- 
selves. So now they are growing larger quantities, and 
greater variety and are obtaining much pleasure and 
profit from only small areas of garden in the backyard. 
Many who live on much traveled highways have found 
that the motorist who passes also knows that the fresher 
vegetables are the best and are glad to be able to secure 
their supplies at the roadside stand of the home .gar- 
dener, much fresher than when obtained from the 
markets. 
Transplanting or Setting Out 
If you buy your plants from a florist or professional 
plant grower, secure them with as much earth around 
the roots as possible and get them into the ground with- 
out delay. Plants in pots cost more but it is easier to set 
them out with success. Before lifting the plants from 
the flat or bed soak the soil around them thoroughly 
several hours before. Then when you lift them the soil 
will adhere to the roots. Do not lift more than you can 
plant without delay. If you have to carry them a con- 
siderable distance, better place the plants in a shallow 
pan immersing the roots in thin mud or cover with a 
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Vegetables for Winter Use ence 
What gives the housewife more real satisfaction than to know she has stored away in her vegetable and fruit room, 
a etdeepply of canned vegetables and fruits. This is especially true when the supply comes from one s own gator 
Almost every vegetable can be successfully canned at home, giving you an almost unlimited opportunity to put up 
your winter’s supply of high quality canned vegetables at an extremely ] 
“put up” at home very successfully: 
ow cost. The following vegetables can be 
i < i Peas, Peppers, Pimentos, 
Asparagus, Beets, Beans, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Carrots, Corn, Greens, Okra, Parsnips, : : ) 
Papen, Salsify, Squash, Tiaatoes. Carrots make a wonderful marmalade. This is one good way to get the chil- 
dren to eat carrots. 
General Directions for Winter Storage of Vegetables 
There are a few principles that apply to the winter stor- 
ing of most vegetables and they are: 
(1) A low temperature, which can be kept above freez- 
ing and fairly even. 
(2) Good ventilation. ; 
(3) Good drainage (freedom from standing water). 
(4) A fairly moist atmosphere. 
(5) Good, sound vegetables dug at the time proper. 
WHEN TO HARVEST. All 
vegetables for storage should 
be harvested if possible when 
the ground is dry, and except 
in the case of potatoes, not be- 
fore freezing weather makes it 
necessary. Let them lie out- 
doors for a few hours until the 
surface moisture is evaporat- 
ed. In removing the tops of 
root crops such as Beets, Car- 
rots and Turnips, leave an 

i ll be- 
h tdoor pits should be made sma 
eee hon née opened all the vegetables 
must be taken out 
inch or so of the top on the root; this prevents bleed- 
i nd drying out. 
ene ae Datatoes or Cabbage, Carrots or Squash— 
in any case only store sound, well matured specimens. A 
chain is no stronger than its weakest link, and by the 
same sign one diseased or poor specimen may quickly 
spoil the entire contents of a pit. 
BASEMENT OR CELLAR. The basements or cellars 
pay stone of' af great many homes have 
the right conditions present, 
and there is the logical place 
to store your vegetables. In 
other homes, however, 
basement is either very damp, 
or else the furnace makes it 
just the opposite—warm and 
too dry. Perhaps a corner or 
one end of your cellar parti- 
tioned off will be just right. 
the. 
damp cloth. It is very important not to let the fine roots 
feel the warm sun and wind for even two minutes. 
The plot where the plants are to be set should have 
been worked mellow and loose beforehand and then 
allowed to settle. 
*Make the holes for the plants plenty big enough to ac- 
commodate the roots without crowding and set the 
plant a little deeper than it stood in its original bed. 
With the fingers press the soil firmly around the roots 
as you fill in. If the soil is very dry, pour some water in 
the hole and then cover with dry soil on the surface. It 
is important to pack the soil firmly around the roots, 
leaving no air spaces. By no means water the foliage of 
the plants or the surface of the soil around the plant, 
especially if the sun is out warm. When this is done the 
soil bakes hard around the stem so the plant is literally 
choked to death. Leave loose, dry soil on the surface. 
If care is used in setting the plants it is not necessary to 
cover them. They will wilt down in the middle of the 
day, perhaps, but in two or three days they will be 
standing up sturdily. 
Keep Your Garden Busy 
If the space you have for vegetable gardening purposes 
is limited, you will want to keep every part of it busy 
during the entire growing season. Some crops planted 
early will be out of the way and leave room for other 
plantings of the same or other varieties later. Below are 
suggested a few varieties that may be used as compan- 
ion crops or succession crops to follow each other in the 
same row. 
(1) Turnips between rows of early sweet corn. 
(2) Late squash between hills of early sweet corn. 
(3) Late celery or cabbage between rows of early peas. 
(4) Sweet corn and cucumbers. 
(5) Pepper plants may follow early peas or onion sets. 
(6) Early potatoes and late sweet corn. 
(7) Early peas, lettuce and tomatoes. 
There are several “early”, crops which others may 
follow, Beans, Early Beets, Early Cabbage, Early 
Sweet Corn, Lettuce, Peas, Early Potatoes, Radishes, 
Spinach, Early Turnips, 
And then the following are ‘“‘late’’ crops which gener- 
ally replace the early ones—Late Beets, Brussels 
Sprouts, Late Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Sweet 
Corn, Kale, Spinach, Turnips 
a 
Pres, 
The Templin-Bradley Co., Seeds and Bulbs, Cleveland, Ohio 
