
IMMENSE BOYSENBERRY 
The Boysenberry is a cross between Cuthbert Raspberry, Lo- 
ganberry and Blackberry, developed by Rudolph Boysen, grow- 
er and superintendent of parks at Anaheim, California. The 
nurseries now have another big berry for release to the nation's 
growers that is likely to supplant the Youngberry, as a can crop 
and fresh product. It is larger and somewhat later than the 
Youngberry which created quite a furor several years ago and 
above all the Boysenberry has a most remarkable and delicious 
flavor, partaking of those of its three parents. In growth, the 
Boysenberry is much the same as the Youngberry and you can 
easily grow from 10 to 30 plants from each plant set. Many 
growers claim 50 to 65 plants. 
Now, Mr. Berry Grower, you who have a small garden will 
never regret setting 10 to 20 of these plants which will produce all 
the berries you can use—fresh, canned, jam and jell—and sstill 
have plenty with which to make your friends and neighbors hap- 
py. We urge each and every one of our customers to set some 
of these plants. 
Boysenberry is a very sturdy plant. Don’t think because it 
originated in California that it is subtropical. We know the plants 
are grown in Florida, Oklahoma, Ohio and Oregon. It appears 
that neither heat of Florida nor cold of Ohio, dampness and hu- 
midity of Oregon and Florida, or dry Oklahoma has hurt them in 
the least. Boysenberry is so sturdy we believe it can be grown 
successfully in our coldest istates if canes are left on the ground 
, during the winter and mulched with straw. 
THORNLESS BOYSENBERRY 
We are happy to offer you this great berry which is without a 
thorn and this means much in the handling. Another great ad- 
vantage is it ripens a week ahead of the thorny Boysenberry, 
which alone is a material advantage, as it gets your berries on 
the market while the prices are higher and that often means a big 
difference in your profit. The berries themselves, are identical. 
both in size and flavor, but the canes are perfectly smooth, which 
means great economy and comfort in handling the vines and 
picking the berries. 
PLANTING AND CULTURE OF VINE BERRIES 
The best time to set out plants is as early in spring as the ground is 
workable. Nectarberries and Boysenberries can be planted in rows 8 
feet apart with plants 8 feet apart in drill. Dewberries are spaced the 
same distance between rows but about 4 feet between the plants. With 
all of these berries, the vines are left to grow on the ground the first 
year, keeping all of the canes in a row growing in the same direction. 
By keeping the vines in adjoining rows trained ‘so that they grow in 
opposite directions on the ground, the cultivation can easily be done in 
same direction, up one row and down the next, without danger of the 
cultivator running into, tangling up and injuring the ends of the vines. 
PLANTING PROMPTLY: Plants should be set as soon as received. If 
they appear dry when received, place in water to soak for a few min- 
utes. If ground is not ready, hill them in a furrow; shelter from sun until 
ground is ready for the plants. 
FERTILIZING: If the soil is deficient in humus and plant food, barnyard 
manure can advantageously be applied before the initial plowing and 
then thoroughly worked into the soil before the plants are set out. Do 
not put any fertilizer in the hole when planting, as that is a good way 
to burn them up. After the plants have become well established, it is 
ample time to apply fertilizer and you can then give them plenty. Owing 
to the heavy cane growth and abundant fruiting of these berries, they 
should be fertilized to provide the plant food necessary. 
TRELLISING: The canes should be put on wires just before the buds 
begin opening in the spring. First wire should be 30 inches off ground 
and the second year you should add another wire some 15 inches above 
the first. You should do this for the reason of a much heavier growth 
of vines for the second year. 
PRUNING: Each spring new canes will start growing for the bearing 
of the following year’s crop. We advise the removing of these canes 
when they are 12 inches to two feet in height. In other words, raising 
one crop at a time, first the berry crop, and then the cane crop for the 
next year’s bearing. Then, when the berry crop is finished and the canes 
that have been bearing are cut off, the new canes are allowed to grow 
on the ground as the first summer. 
