PRIMULA JULIAE and HYBRIDS 
It has been told how Julia’s primrose was first found growing under a waterfall on the wild heights of the Caucasus and 
shortly after, in 1910, was introduced into England. In the scant 35 years it has been in cultivation, hundreds of happy hybrids 
have resulted from its eagerness to cross with the English primrose, Polyanthus, Cowslip, Oxlip and Levantine primrose. Pro- 
fessional and amateur interest in hybridizing Juliaes might be said to have reached the boiling point a few years, ago in all the 
countries of western Hurope, the British Isles, Canada and the United States. The result is that Juliae hybrids are everywhere, 
and everywhere loved for their elfin vivacity which is given so generously and for which little or nothing is asked in return. 
The hybrids have the same wide flowering range as the parents, blooming from late winter on through late spring. 
They also are of two habits. Those favoring P. Juliae retain the creeping root-stock and spread like a mat over the ground. The 
others tend more to the rosette form of the English and Levantine parents. There are, however, many intermediate stages between 
the two. 
All types multiply rapidly making them valuable for edgings and ground covers. 
P. JULIAE—The original species from 
the Caucasus. Plants form mats of 
sparkling claret-red blossoms in 
mid-spring. 35c each, 3 for $1.00. 
P. JULIAE HYBRID PINK—A handsome 
new importation with large, clear 
pink flowers that begin to bloom in 
winter, continuing throughout 
spring. $1.00 each. 
P. JULIAE LAKEWOOD — Beautifully 
bronzed, dark green foliage cush- 
ioned with large, burgundy blos- 
soms in early spring. Originated 
in Oregen. 50c each. 
P. JULIAE ROBERTA Large, lilac col- 
ored blossoms against leaves of 
delicate green together with its 
carpeting habit make Roberta dain- 
ty and desirable. A trifle later than 
Lakewood and by the same orign- 
nator. 50c each. 
P. JULIAE DOROTHY—One of the lovli- 
est and most unusual of the imported 
Juliaes. It blooms on a short stalk 
like a miniature Polyanthus, is a rich 
butter yellow with deeply cleft blos- 
soms and retains the creeping habit 
of P. Juliae. Mid-spring. $1.00 each. 
P. JULIAE PRIMROSE LODGE_—_A jaun- 
ty miniature Polyanthus type with 
deep wine colored blossoms preceding 
Dorothy in bloom. Originated in Illi- 
nois. 35c each, 3 for $1.00. 
P. JULIAE BUNTY— Large flowers of °: 
fine, deep blue over bronzed, dark 
green foliage. An imported plant of 
great beauty. Early. $1.00 each. 
Po ea ape el ance nae 

P. JULIAE HYBRID HOSE-IN-HOSE—The rare duplex form in which one blossom appears to grow from the center of another. 
A glowing wine shade and so floriferous the medallian of foliage is almost hidden at blossom time. 50c each. 
CIE NOIRE 
Primroses, like other perennials, thrive when put in ap- 
proximately the right situation, in a soil that is well drained 
and rich in humus and organic plant food. They need less sun 
and more water than most perennials. No plant responds 
more quickly to an occasional light cultivation or other main- 
tenance work. 
PLANT FOODS—AlII of the primroses listed in this Sec- 
tion do well in the situations suggested at the beginning 
in well drained, ordinary garden soil that has had leaf mold, 
well rotted barnyard manure, compost or like material thor- 
oughly dug into it. Raw bone meal is an excellent plant food 
that supplies nutriment over a long period and is therefore 
especially suited to the slower growing primulas such as 
Auriculas. For the same reason ground oyster shell is good. 
Auriculas must have exceptionally good drainage and detailed 
notes are given under ‘“Auriculas”. The color of blue Polyan- 
thus and blue Acaulis is intensified by higher soil acidity as for 
rhododendrons and azaleas,and by planting them in more shade 
than the others. Blue primroses usually bloom off color in the 
fall and very often change color when dug and shipped, but 
will return to their true shade each spring. Double primroses 
should also be placed in more shade than ordinary ones, given 
much more water and somewhat more barnyard manure to 
relieve the heavy strain of flowering. Well rotted manure 
carefully put around all plants in early spring provides easily 
assimilated food when growth begins and is a moisture con- 
serving mulch during the summer. 
PLANTING—Primroses should be given plenty of room to 
insure a free circulation of air around the leaves. All of those 
listed in this Section should have about a foot of space be- 
tween plants. Juliaes may have less because of smaller leaves 
but most of these spread and will eventually cover a large area. 
Plants shipped long distances usually arrive with leaves 
crisp and flowers fresh. Before planting, shake out the roots 
and, if the weather is warm at the time, remove all large leaves 
leaving only the small, young ones. Plant fairly deep so that 
each crown rests firmly in the top of the soil but allow no soil 
to lodge in the crowns. Pack the soil firmly and thoroughly 
around the roots. Water in and keep well watered and shaded 
until plants begin to grow, usually in from ten days to two 
weeks. If plants are delayed en route and have wilted, remove 
all large leaves and place the roots in a pan of water in the 
shade until plants recover. 
Primroses are easily transplanted any time during the 
growing season but not in the winter. The latest date that 
primroses can be planted with complete safety is about a 
month before frost suspends growing weather. This allows 
the plants time to root and establish themselves. 
DIVIDING— About every two years, or whenever the plant 
grows into a crowded clump and the flowers diminish in size, 
Polyanthus and Acaulis should be lifted, the crowns separated, 
roots cut back to three or four inches, large leaves removed, 
