and the divisions re-set in freshly dug and enriched soil. This 
is best done any time after flowering up to early fall depending 
upon convenience and whether or not seeds are desired. If 
water is available, July and August are the best months for 
dividing. Auriculas grow more slowly and prefer an undis- 
turbed state for a longer period. Offsets of the plants can 
usually be pulled off, complete with roots, while the old plants 
remain in the ground. Juliaes may be divided or not accord- 
ing to the type of hybrid and the use for which they are 
intended. 
PERENNIALISM_It is natural for the older leaves of 
English primroses to begin deterioration in summer, spotting 
and turning yellow. New leaf growth quickens after blooming 
and as it develops into healthy, green maturity, old leaves 
gradually, almost imperceptibly, die off as with most peren- 
nials on completing their cycle. Juliaes reach this stage later 
in the summer and early fall; Auriculas usually wait until 
fall and winter for the old leaves to yellow, the tightly rolled 
new leaves remaining sound and green. 
PESTS—Increased knowledge in the control of garden 
pests has diminished a serious problem to one of petty an- 
noyance. Strawberry Root-Weevil and Black Vine Weevil 
are repelled in the adult beetle stage by baiting with Go West, 
spraying the plants with arsenate of lead or putting a tea- 
poonful of tobacco dust in the bottom of each hole before 
planting. If bait is used the first application around plant 
crowns (allowing some to fall on the plants) should be made 
about mid-May continuing twice a month throughout the 
summer. A monthly spraying with lead arsenate beginning 
the middle of May will kill other leaf chewing insects as well. 
The weevils, or larvae, of the beetle feed most heavily on 
the roots in the fall and winter. Rapidly diminishing leaves, 
loss of vitality, general sickly appearance usually indicate the 
presence of root-weevils and becomes very apparent from late 
winter to mid-spring. To kill the root-weevils in the ground, 
dust arsenate of lead around the plants as closely to the 
crowns as possible and over the entire primrose bed at the 
rate of 5 pounds to 100 square feet. This washes into the ground 
with the rains and its effectiveness lasts for five years accord- 
ing to Michigan State College experiments. 
Cutworms and slugs are destroyed by spraying with lead 
arsenate, any good slug bait or a strong solution of plug 
tobacco water poured on the plants twice a week for several 
weeks. 
The orange mite known as red spider attacks plants on the 
under side of leaves during dry periods if not sufficiently 
watered or if situated in too much sun. Transplant to a 
Shadier spot or water heavily, then dust the under side of 
leaves with micro-sulphur or spray under side of leaves with 
bill posters paste at the rate of one tablespoon to a gallon of 
water to suffocate the mites. 
Mice sometimes feed on primvoses in the winter time and 
rat poison should be placed in the mouse holes or around the 
plants before snow flies. 
WINTER CARE—All of the primroses in Section I 
have wintered in temperatures of 25 degrees below zero. In 
cold climates they should receive the care given all peren- 
nials. Evergreen boughs, corn stalks or any material that 
admits light and air and yet breaks the force of drying winds 
should be placed over the plants when the ground is well 
frozen if there ig no snow or ice to protect them. An early 
winter mulch of well rotted manure adds protection. A wise 
trick used in Wyoming is freezing the plants in a thick coat- 
ing of ice by watering thorough!y during the first hard freeze 
and placing cornstalks over the ice. Primroses have remained 
thus for six and seven months and ‘merged green and fresh in 
the spring. In climates with rainy falls, soggy leaves should 
be removed from the plants before too many accumulate. 
SECTION IT. 
For the less sunny parts of the rock garden—Auriculas and Juliaes are not only good es sp°cimrn plants but their habits 
make them particularly suited to the shadier parts of the rock garden. Next year, Primulas Clusiana and Wu/!feniana, rose- 
colored gems from the Venetian and Austrian Alps, will be offered for the rock garden, 
SECTION III. 
All of the primrose types in this section are used for bedding or as specimen plants in shadicr borders, the less sunny 
portions of east and north exposures, shadier woodland situations, streamsides, poolsides, gardens w.th limited amounts of sun. 
ASIATIC PRIMULAS 
Boldly dramatic, the primulas of Asia differ from those of Europe and Eng- 
land both in appearance and legend. Too new for romantic tradition as we know 
it in the western world, the aura that clings to them is that of adventure and explor- 
ation in strange lands. Nature is on a grand scale in the Himalyas, the Chinese 
and Tibetan Alps, and here on the roof of the world the great majority of these 
primulas have their home. They grow in extravagant profusion at an average aiti- 
tude of 24% miles in alpine meadows and valleys, birch copses, at the edge of 
rhododendron thickets and bamboo brakes, mountain lakes and icy streams, inter- 
mingle with iris and poppies, seek shade under rose and honeysuckle tangles. 
The greatest number of species have been introduced into cultivation in the 
last thirty years due to Tibet removing the ban against western travelers after the 
last war. Undoubtedly there are many still awaiting discovery. Because of Asia’s 
summer monsoon rains from late spring to mid-fall, the gardener must be prepared 
to give these primulas even less sun than the English primroses and much more 
water, especially in the east and middle west. 
CANDELABRA TYPE 
Flowers encircle the stalk in successive tiers in late spring and early summer. 
All plants 35c, 3 for $1.00, unless otherwise stated. Order as a collection, if wished. 
P. BULLEYANA—tThe glory of Yunnan, China. Soft apricot-buff, red-gold in the bud. 
2 feet. 
P. COCKBURNIANA—Also from western China, this brilliant tangerine, or coppery 
scarlet primula sends up one stalk of fiery bloom after another. 1 foot. 
P. JAPONICA—From the north of Yeso Island off the Asiatic mainland. A most 
robust and persistent plant. Delicate shades of pink and rose. 2 feet. 
P. JAPONICA ETNA—A beautiful terra cotta variation of the above. 2 feet. 
A stately plant flower- 
ing in a glowing cerise red with golden brown, raised center. Stalks and buds 
P. PULVERULENTA—Native to the Chinese-Tibetan border. 
heavily silvered. 2-3 feet. 
P. PULVERULENTA, BARTLEY PINK STRAIN—This ethereally lovely pink varia- 
tion of the above was developed over a period of years in England. Lavishly 
silvered it is in shades of pink. 2-3 feet, 50c each. 
P. RED HUGH HYBRID—A cross between Primulas Cockburniana and pulverulenta 
originating in Ireland. A beautiful Chinese red with the silver stalks of pul- 
verulenta. 

Candelabra Type Primula 
