FRUIT 
De EE S 
FREIGHT PAID PRICES 
PEAR * APPLE * CRAB APPLE * QUINCE * PLUM * PRUNE * PEACH * NECTARINE * APRICOT * CHERRY 
Prices: — 
Each 10 to 50 
Per RED TOO Treas detal darcenas Snccheeicbet edetus cuwserenesennenee TOE 80c 
Peele FOG FOG hc ceritsacd.s cceveititceterticcceeeeaatenansee Ss ROO 90c 
Note—Ten trees of a kind only are sold at the 10 to 50 tree rate. (Example: 10 apples at the 10 rate, 
but not 8 apples and 2 plum). 
Commercial Orchardist—Please write for prices on 50 or more trees. 

PROPER PLANTING 
Trees, shrubs, and plants require immediate and careful attention for successful results in planting. They must not 
be exposed to the wind or sun before planting, and should be cultivated and watered after planting to assure quick estab- 
lishment. Please Read the Following Information. 
HANDLING UPON ARRIVAL 
Unless you are prepared to plant the trees or plants im- 
mediately, dig a trench large enough to accommodate all the 
roots, set bundle of trees or plants at an angle to save extra 
digging, spread the roots carefully and firm the soil around 
them. Water when ground is dry and heap the soil well about 
the stems of stock. 
Plants received in freezing weather should not be opened 
until they have been put in a cocl but frost proof cellar and 
gradually thawed out. 
Stock which seems somewhat dry upon opening should be 
buried in wet soil for a day or two; small bundles may be 
placed in tubs of water. This will quickly liven the stems and 
make them ready for planting. , 
PREPARATION OF GROUND 
Spade and plow thoroughly and deeply, raking or harrow- 
ing the soil fine and leveling off to facilitate planting. Dig holes 
generously wide and deep to receive the root system without 
crowding. Loosen the soil in the bottom of the hole. 
PRUNING BEFORE PLANTING 
Pruning stock at the time it is transplanted assures more 
rapid recovery, providing less heavy top to be supported by the 
roots which themselves are burdened with the task of re- 
establishing tiny feeding rootlets. Use a sharp knife or shears. 
TREES. Remove about one-third of the top from average 
heavy tops, by clipping branch ends and interfering limbs. Cut 
off frayed or bruised roots just above the point affected. Leave 
one branch or stem to develop into a leader. 
FRUIT TREES. Trim roots as advised for trees above. 
Branched trees should be pruned so that three to five branches, 
well placed about the trees, remain. Remaining branches should 
be cut back from 1% to ¥%. On peach trees limbs should be cut 
back to three buds. Whip trees should be topped to the desired 
heading out, usually from £4 to 36 inches. 
SHRUBS. Thin out the tops of many branched shrubs, re- 
moving old wood and cut back average plants about one-third. 
Thin roots as directed for trees above. 
ROSES. Cut roots as advised for trees and shrubs, remov- 
ing bruised and broken parts. Cut tops back to three or four 
buds on each stem. 
PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS 
TREES. Dig hole large enough to admit all the roots of 
plant without cramping them. Place top soil in separate pile 
to place about roots. Loosen subsoil when it is very hard. Set 
trees one or two inches deeper than they stood in the nursery, 
as shown by the eollar or bark at top of roots. SHRUBS should 
be set at the same depth or slightly deeper than in the nurs- 
ery. Spread roots out naturally and work in pulverized soil 
about the roots, tamping firmly with the feet. If soil is dry, 
water well before hole is filled with soil. Lastly, fill the hole 
level, but do not mound up, as this tends to shed water away 
from the roots. Don’t tramp down the top soil, but leave loose 
to prevent baking and cracking. 
ROSES. Piant all graft-joints so that they are at least two 
inches below ground level. Roses require thorough cultivation 
of the soil and are gross feeders, necessitating rich ground or 
fertilizer for best results. 
EVERGREENS should be set a trifle lower than they stood 
in the nursery. Dig the hole a foot larger in diameter than the 
ball of earth about the roots and fill in with good loamy soil, 
packing firmly by tramping or settling by filling hole with wa- 
ter. Loosen burlap at top of ball and roll back or cut off, but 
DO NOT remove entire burlap covering. 
PRUNING AND PLANTING SMALL FRUITS 
GRAPES. Cut back roots proportionately to development. 
Tops should be removed, leaving one stem with three to four 
buds. Set slightly deeper than in the nursery row. Space 
6 by 6 to 8 by 10 feet. 
CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES. Cut back top about 
one half, trim roots slightly cutting off broken or bruised roots. 
Space 4 by 6 to 6 by 8 feet. 
RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, ETC. Tops should be 
removed to about 6 inches from the ground when planted. 
Space 8 to 4 feet. 
ASPARAGUS. Plant one foot apart in furrows 6 inches 
deep. Do not cut the first year. Fertilize heavily. 
RHUBARB. Plant 8 feet apart with buds one inch below 
ground level. Fertilize with manure every year. 
STRAWBERRIES. Remove old leaves. Trim roots back 
one-third. Plant with trowel or dibble, opening hole and 
spreading roots out in fan shape with the crowns slightly be- 
low the ground level. 
PROPER PLANTING DISTANCES 
Large trees, such as Hlm, Maple, e€te.....00.........ccceeeeees 30 to 50 ft. 
Medium trees, such as Birch, Ash, etc..... 25 to 40 ft 




Fruit trees—Apples and Cherries................. 25 to1 40 f& 
Pears, Plums, Peaches, Apricots .. 2 
Sour Cherries, Almonds, Quince... rise . 
ALD GEES orn ea ee eee Re ee, ee 1.40: to.30) its 
Mme lishne WV ait) eee ee, een ee ae: 
Rose Bushes and Small Shrubs... aout : 
Shrubs larece erowine varieties. Soak fa ws ee oP On 6 ett 
CARE AFTER PLANTING 
CULTIVATION: Keep soil loose on top to conserve moist- 
ure by hoeing shallowly until the first of August. After this 
time it is well to allow stock to harden and mature for wintter- 
MULCHING: Grass clippings, straw manure, or marsh hay 
will serve instead of a dust mulch to conserve moisture and 
keep down weeds where cultivation cannot be given. 
WATERING: Water thoroughly rather than sprinkle light- 
ly. Give the soil all the water it will take at one \jtime. No 
more need be applied for several days when this is done. 
FERTILIZING: Barnyard manure is one of the best medi- 
ums of enriching the soil. When this cannot be secured, a bal- 
anced commercial fertilizer may be uged with good results. 
TRIMMING, generally, should be done immediately after 
the bloom fades. In this way no blooming wood for the follow- 
ing year is cut off. Fruit trees should be kept open in the 
center and pruned yearly (February) to eliminate excess wood. 
Remove all old wood on currants and gooseberries yearly after 
fruit is gathered. Raspberries and blackberries should receive 
similar treatment, leaving a few vigorous stems for the suc- 
seeding crop. Grapes require severe cutting back each spring, 
early in February before the sap starts. 
INSECT PESTS, should have immediate attention. There 
are three classes of parasites to combat. First, insects which 
eat the leaf and stem tissue; second, insects which suck the 
sap from the leaves and stems; and third, fungus, and scale 
conditions, which attack leaves, stems, and bark. The first 
should be combated by a stomach poison such as Arsenate of 
Lead, Paris Green, etc. The second, by tobacco or nicotine solu- 
tions, Black Leaf 40, etc., when confined to the leaves or stems; 
and by more caustic or corrosive solutions, such as Lime- 
sulphur, when confined to branches and stems. Dormant spray- 
ing for scale and egg infestations is most successful, as spray- 
ing with corrosive solutions when in foliage, will remove foliage 
if the solution is of full strength. Rusit, Midew and Curleaf 
are best combated by Bordeaux Mixture. 
CARLTON NURSERY CO. 
"Over fifty years” 
FOREST GROVE, OREGON 
