



















































































t ndoors should ‘be watered thoroughly before 
that are to receive the plants. 
GUS is an extremely hardy, long-lived 
nial vegetable which like rhubarb and perennial 
| should be grown at one end or one side of the 
en-or in a special out-of-the-way perennial gar- 
Ee eds of asparagus may be sown about 1 inch 
_ one-year-old or two-year-old roots to set in 
anent bed. Young asparagus roots may be 
ady for transplanting. Set young asparagus 
in, well drained, fertile, loamy soil, deeply 
ough to provide a cover of 5 to 6 inches over the 
.. Set the plants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 
4 feet apart. A light cutting of asparagus for 
ale may be made the second year after setting 
ants. | = a 
: Br vide a good means of growing early cabbage. The 
= fros proofing culture makes these hardy plants smaller 
and stockier with relatively waxier, tougher, more 
i y leaves and deeper pink color than tender 
splants, but this rough appearance is an _ indi- 
ation of being well hardened for producing early 
e The foliage may become pale, shrivelled and 
ractive in long distance shipment but the young 
: orm fresh green leaves upon setting in the 
gard mn and produce heads for early harvest. 
abbage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts and Green 
prouting Broccoli may be started from seed indoors 
about 6 weeks in advance of the safe date for trans- 
j lanting hardy kinds out of doors. The Frost Proof 
abbage plants or the home grown plants of Cab- 
_bage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts and Green Sprout- 
sig “Broccoli. should be set in the garden slightly 
deeper than they stood in the nursery or starting 
pox. The rows in the garden should be 30 to 36 
_inches apart and the plants may be spaced 15 to 20 
Oo: “inches: apart in the row. 
~ Short- period varieties of cabbage such as Golden 
A e may yield heads 60 days after transplanting. 
j eriod varieties such as Danish Ballhead may 
req 100 days and may be sown in late spring in 
h North for plants to be set out 6 weeks later in 
2 ummer to yield heads for fall use and winter 
rage. The same practice may be followed to pro- 
vide fall harvests of Green Bercorng Broccoli, Brus- 
routs and Cauliflower. 
vettuce ‘and -endive are hardy but not as hardy as 
cabbage. Set the young plants firmly in level, moist, 
loamy soil but take care to avoid deep setting that 
_ may. cover the growing point and cause smothering 
and de ay of the crown. 
seed for early crops must be sown ihdoors 
: 2 weeks in advance of early spring trans- 
t plantii Celery is not as hardy as cabbage but may 
set out a few weeks later than cabbage and a 
month or so earlier than tomato. To avoid produc- 
on of worthless early seeders, young celery plants 
must be grown at: temperatures around 60 to 70° F. 
nd hould never be allowed to become checked by 
te peratures. Set the plants about 8 inches 
in rows 30 inches apart, being careful to avoid 
the growing point or crown. 
ARDY ONION PLANTS may be planted according 
directions on page 21. The tops of young onion 
nts may appear shrivelled and discolored after long 
ce shipment. The plants send up promptly fresh 
rowth upon setting in the garden and pro- 
e large sound bulbs many weeks earlier than bulbs 
ue from seed, 
MATO, PEPPER. AND EGGPLANT may be in- 
 jured by late spring frosts. The seeds should be 
rs about 6 weeks in advance of the usual 
eo last killing frost. When danger_of frost 
passed they may be transplanted to the garden. 
‘ransplants of pepper and egg-plant should be set 
tly deeper than they grew in the plant box. 
these may be set 18 to 24 inches apart in 
36 inches apart. 
ts that are not to be staked and trained 
4 feet apart in rows 4 to 6 feet apart. 
nld be set slightly deeper than they 
ie plant . In ease the plants have be- 
remely tal d slender, the root and lower 
be set laterally in the row 3 to 4 inches 
Il except about 6 inches of the tip. 
ee 
page 21) is productive in. the 
arm, well drained sandy soi! 
provi le about four and one-half 
ble growing weather. Set the plants 
4 inches apart in a six-inch ridge, al- 
set between ridges or rows. When 
; the vines, harvest the sweet potatoes, 
to avoid bruising, cure them for 
pelt ventilated ee at 80° F. and 
ow 45° F. 
HE GARDEN. provides aera- 
ion destroys weeds and con- 
nts for the use of the vege- 
Serves to minimize diseases 
lest and most effective. 
visible, the first cultiva- 
as soon as the vegetable® 
ould: be only an inch 
or two deep at first. 
lower as the plants enlarge to avoid destruction of | 
_ Water should be poured into the holes ~ 
Cultivation should become shal- 
the mass of invisible feeding rootlets near the sur- 
face of the soil. 
_Weeds within the row may be removed while thin- 
ning the stand of vegetables. Excess vegetable plants 
and weeds. may be removed by means of a knife to 
avoid disturbing the plants that remain. 
A few weekly cultivations during the early life of 
the plants and an occasional shallow cultivation 
thereafter may be sufficient. Cultivation following 
each heavy rain breaks the crust and destroys 
sprouted weeds. 
WATERING THE GARDEN. In Spring, well pre- 
pared garden soil is usually moist enough to insure 
germination of seeds sown directly in the garden. 
Midsummer plantings of beet, carrot and other 
vegetable seeds are more certain to germinate promptly 
and uniformly during dry weather after the following 
precautions have been observed: (1) Make a slightly 
deeper furrow than usual. (2) Pour water in the bot- 
tom, of the furrow, (3) Sow seeds a little more 
thickly than usual, in the moistened furrow, and 
cover firmly with soil as usual. 
Artificial watering is a very important means of 
insuring satisfactory crops year after year. Soil- 
Soaker, the porous hose listed on page 76 of this 
catalog is ideal -for watering the vegetable garden. 
A thorough soaking about once a week during dry 
weather may prove sufficient. 
Gardeners who use ordinary sprinkling devices 
should water during a period of rising temperature to 
' avoid wet foliage at night which might induce de- 
structive foliage diseases. 
DISEASE AND INSECT CONTROL begins with 
preventive measures such as fall or early spring clean- 
up and spading, the use of reliable, well grown seeds 
such as Burgess’ Seeds, that have been treated against 
controllable seed-borne diseases, and by the use of 
varieties that are resistant to disease. These preven- 
tive measures should be supplemented by a spraying 
or dusting program to control insects and blights that 
may occur despite precautions that may have been 
observed. 
Rotenone (see prices on this page), Red Arrow 
Garden Spray (see page 76) and Hammond’s Slug 
Shot (see page 78) are valuable preparations for use 
against sucking and chewing insects. 
Control of Corn Borer. Dust with Rotenone 4 times 
t 5 day intervals. Begin when the tassels begin to 
emerge from the funnel-shape whorl of leaves at the 
tip of the plant. ‘The common Corn Ear Worm is’ dif- 
ferent. See page 76 for control of Corn Ear Worm. 
Squash Vine Borer may be controlled or repelled 
by using early and frequently a general purpose in- 
secticide, taking care especially to Keep the base of 
the plant well covered. Squash plants damaged by 
borer may often be saved by covering each joint along 
the stem with moist earth to provide maximum op- 
portunity for new root formation. 
Tomato Troubles. Excessive blossom drop may be 
due to the action of chewing insects in which case it 
may be corrected by the usé of an arsenical insecti- 
cide such as those used to control potato beetle. Ex- 
cessively high temperatures and excessively dry air 
may Cause excessive blossom drop. 
Healthy tomato plants may fail to set fruit due to 
prolonged rainy spells which prolongs leafy growth. 
Excessive nourishment tends to promote and prolong 
leafy growth and retards fruit setting, as when to- 
matoes are grown in: an abandoned poultry yard or 
in any area that has been fertilized too heavily, and 
particularly in.an overly rich garden that is watered 
too heavily, 
Tomato leayes may curl noticeably during drouthy 
weather, particularly when a period of hot drying 
winds follows a warm rainy spell which has promoted 
large leafy growth. This curling of leaves on other- 
wise healthy plants is natural. The plant is taking 
natural means to prevent excessive loss of moisture 
by reducing the leaf surface which is exposed to the 
sun. 
Cucumber Flowers that drop in great numbers be- 
fore setting fruits sometimes alarm beginning gar- 
deners. The first flowers that occur on cucumber 
plants are usually male flowers which drop off nat- 
urally. Much the same is true of squashes, pump- 
KILL CUTWORMS 

Protect Garden Crops 
GO-WEST INSECT BAIT ig one ‘of the most effective 
known eradicators of Cutworms, Grasshoppers, Strawberry 
Root Weevils, Vegetable Weevils, Snails, Slugs, Earwigs, 
Sowbugs and other insects with similar feeding habits. 
GO-WEST is made from chopped sweet_apples, ‘combined 
with a poison, under a patented formula. It is extremely at- 
tractive to insects and remains in moist, edible condition, 
retaining its killing properties for many days after applica-— 
tion. 
GO-WEST is very effective against the Vegetable Weevils 
which attack Carrots; Turnips, Spinach, Cauliflower, Cab- 
bage, Lettuce, Celery, Radishes, ete. 
Scatter GO-WEST around infested plants. One application 
is usually sufficient. One pound will cover 400 square feet, 
In treating truck crop areas, broadcast about 100 Ibs, to the 
acre. 
GO-WEST is ready and easy to use. No mixing is re- 
quired. is 
1-Ib. package, 70c; three 1-Ib. packages, $2.00; 10-Ib. 
package, $5.25, postpaid. By express, not prepaid, 1- Ib., 60c; 
3-lbs,, $1.75; 10-lbs., $4.50. 
Sn a TLE IT AE LY TTS, 
HARVEST AND USE OF VEGETABLES. Victory 
Gardeners should aim toward a year ’round supply 
of home grown vegetables; fresh vegetables from 
spring through fall and preserved vegetables from . 
fall through spring. Gather vegetables at the peak 
of perfection for the purpose for which they are in- 
tended and use them or preserve them promptly upon 
removal from the soil. 
Follow approved methods of canning, quick freéz- 
ing, cellar-storage, and drying or brining to save all 
surpluses by the best means at hand for the particular 
kind of vegetable. 
Storage of roots and other bulky vegetables is usu- 
ally cheaper and requires less labor than other meth- 
ods of preservation. 
Cabbage, beets, carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sim- 
ilar garden products require storage temperatures just 
above freezing and require moist but well drained 
conditions with little air circulation. These vege- 
tables may be left in the garden as late as possible 
and still avoid freezing. They may then be gathered 
and trimmed and stored in an old fashioned earth- 
floor root-cellar or by other means that provide simi- 
lar conditions. These commodities may be stored in 
well drained shallow earth pits or trenches in the 
garden or in. barrels- sunk slightly into the ground. 
Pits and barrels or other suitable containers should 
provide some ventilation and should be insulated grad- 
ually against damaging changes in temperature by 
layers of soil and straw or other suitable litter. 
These vegetables may be stored in a cool basement in 
damp soil or in suitable containers such as large 
crocks or heavy barrels that provide limited ventila- 
tion but serve as barriers against excessive loss of 
moisture and consequent shrivelling. 
Parsnips, salsafy and horse radish are not dam- 
aged by freezing. perp uses may be left in place in 
the garden all winter. A heavy straw mulch over the 
plants permits winter digging in severe climates. 
Brussels. sprouts, cabbage, endive, Chinese cabbage, 
celery and many other leafy vegetables may be pulled 
and reset closely in moist soil in a cool basement, in 
a cold-frame or under other conditions that provide 
means of ventilation and moisture control but which 
furnish protection against freezing. 
Squashes and pumpkins should be well ripened in 
the garden but should not be allowed to freeze. The 
fruits should be handled carefully to avoid bruising —. 
and should be stored in a moderately warm, dry, well- © 
ventilated place. 
Onion bulbs for storage should be well ripened in- 
the garden, cured thoroughly in a _ well-ventilated 
place and stored in mesh bags or in slat crates in a 
cold, dry, well-ventilated room where the bulbs will 
not freeze. g : 

kins, gourds and melons. 
FULTONS 
PLANIABBS 
Plant Food in 
Tablet Form 
Feed your ‘Vegetables, Flowers, 
Roses and Shrubs the modern way— 
with ready-to-use PLANTABBS. 
Cléan and odorless; absolutely relia- 
ble; easy to use. Increase produc- 
tion—more beautiful plants and fiow- 
ers. Order today. 
POSTPAID PRICES 
36 Tablets (House Plant Size) hae ra 
240 Tablets 
850 Tablets 

ROTENONE 
The SAFE Insecticide 
Forty times more powerful than arsenate of 
lead as a stomach poison, and fifteen times more 
effective than nicotine, yet harmless to humans 
and animals. 
ter, no 
leaf-eating insects. 
Bean beetle, cabbage and tomato worms, aphis, 
and most bothersome. insects. 
$1.35, postpaid. By express, not prepaid, 1 lb., 30¢; 
mixing, 
NOTICE 3" 
used in full accordance with Food Production Order 
which allows Rotenone to be used in food prodnction only, 
Orders for more than five pounds cannot he accepted. 
Dry powder—easy to use—no Wa- 
no muss. Perfect control for 
Recommended for Méxican 
S Easy 10. 
Wl 0cise5: bse 
5 Ibs., $1.00. 
All Rotenone products are sold by us “with 
understanding that they are to be 
No. 13, 
79 

f 
