CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
WHERE TO PLANT A GARDEN 
Generally speaking, the city home gardener has no choice. But 
good drainage, and avoidance of shade from trees, buildings and 
fences, must be considered. A sandy loam is much preferred for 
any garden. 
WHAT TO GROW 
Whatever the family likes and will consume largely. Whatever 
affords variety and is easy to grow, and last but not least, what- 
ever can be easily preserved by freezing or canning or does not 
deteriorate in value. 
WHAT VARIETIES 
Select standard varieties. By “standard” we mean the “tried 
and true’ long in use and known to be dependable. There are 
a great many varieties listed by seedsmen and many are the same 
thing under different names. Your neighbors, friends, seedsman, 
agricultural college, agricultural societies, clubs or associations will 
all help make up your list. 
PREPARING THE HOME GARDEN 
The soil should be turned with a spading fork at least 6 to 8 
inches deep. Humus, Mushroom and Peat Moss are excellent ma- 
terials, for binding light sandy soils or breaking up heavy clay soils. 
FERTILIZING 
It has been demonstrated that garden crops of the best quality 
are those which are grown under conditions which permit a con- 
tinuous and rapid development. One thing that more than any 
other controls the yield and quality of garden produce is plant 
food of the right amount and kind. Even the best soils are liable 
to be deficient in some essential feature. On row crops such as 
beans, carrots, beets, etc., use 1 pound per 15 feet of row. On 
tomatoes, pepper, cabbage, etc., use 1 heaping tablespoonful to 
each plant, mixing it thoroughly with the soil where the plant is 
to be set. Side dressings of row crops and plants can follow a 
few weeks later at about one-half the rates. These rates apply to 
the Victory Garden 5-10-5 Fertilizer. 
LIMING THE SOIL 
The accumulation of acids in the soil creates conditions very 
unfavorable to the growth of most vegetables and at the same time 
limits the usefulness of manures and fertilizers already applied. 
Lime does much to improve a wet and sticky soil. We will be 
glad to test your soil for acidity and tell you how much lime, if 
any, is needed. We will not have time this year for other tests. 
WHEN TO SOW SEEDS 
Much depends upon temperature, rain and sunshine. It is 
known that a low temperature is not congenial for many seeds 
and they, therefore, will not sprout. Just the right temperature 
for several varieties of seeds has been found and the seeds can be 
grouped together as to their temperature requirements or charac- 

STRAWBERRY PLANTS 
Strong Field Grown Plants 
Dorsett. Early. 
Catskill. Midseason. 
Fairfax. Medium early. 
25 for $1.00 
Mastodon. Everbearing. 25 for $1.50. 
teristics. There are hardy seeds or plants that will grow even 
though the temperature is 40 degrees F., and occasionally a frost 
takes place. Vegetables known as hardy are Beet, Cabbage, Cress, 
Kale, Lettuce, Parsnip, Parsley, Smooth Peas, Radish, Spinach and 
Turnip. All these may be planted early in the spring, generally 
in April. Then there are the half hardy sorts such as Celery, Car- 
rots, Endive, Cauliflower, Leek, Onion and Wrinkled Peas. These 
require slightly higher temperatures such as 50 degrees F., or 
more, and can be planted in late April or early May. Last, there 
are the tender varieties, the Beans, Corn, Cucumber, Eggplant, 
Melons, Okra, Pepper, Pumpkin, Squash, Sweet Potato and To- 
mato. These require for their best growth a temperature of 60 
degrees F. or higher. 
DEPTH OF SOWING SEEDS 
An old rule for the depth of sowing seeds is “to sow them twice 
the diameter of the seed.” We think a better way to say it would 
be “sow them twice the diameter of the seed, and take the largest 
diameter.” 
SOWING THE SEEDS 
The first step is to mark off the row. A line may be used or a 
home-made marker aided by a line will answer the purpose. 
Straight rows are practically a necessity not only for better ap- 
pearance, but for economy of space. After the seeds have been 
placed in the row, be sure to firm the soil around the seeds. This 
helps the seeds absorb moisture faster and greatly hastens ger- 
mination. 
THINNING 
The object of thinning is to remove those plants that are weak 
or spindling-and give the healthier plants the required space for 
proper development and a resultant uniform stand. This process 
is tiresome and expensive and it may be lessened somewhat by a 
more even and thinner distribution of the seeds. 
TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS TO THE GARDEN 
t must be remembered that the greater the number of points 
of contact there are between the roots and the soil, the better the 
results wiil be. Prepare the soil and a cloudy or rainy day is best 
for transplanting. Mark the rows so they will be straight. The 
only tool necessary for transplanting is the common dibble or 
trowel. It is always well to put a cup or two of water in the open- 
ing where the plant is to go. Set the plant and then firm the soil 
around the roots. “Take-Hold” starter solution is an excellent 
material to use when setting out plants. 
CULTIVATION 
Careful attention to cultivation between the rows should be 
given throughout the season. By cultivation moisture contained 
in the soil is conserved and evaporation is checked. No weeds 
should be allowed to grow. Weeds rob the plants of sunlight 
above the ground, moisture and plant food below the ground. 
Cultivation can be shallow, as the roots of plants often come quite 
close to the surface. 

ASPARAGUS ROOTS 
Mary Washington 
Two-year-old selected crowns 
50 for $2.50; 100 for $4.50 
RHUBARB 
Two-year-old roots, 25c each. 

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