Dahlia Culture 
TIME. The proper time to plant dahlias for exhibition pur- 
poses in this latitude is about the first of June. Of course, if 
one is not depending upon the shows, they can be planted as 
soon as the frost is over. In this climate we advise a succession 
of planting from May 10th to July Ist. 
PREPARING SOIL. About one week or ten days before 
planting, spade your garden ten inches deep and leave it in the 
rough, then broadcast into soil to every 100 square feet or to 
approximately ten dahlia hills five pounds raw bonemeal mixed 
with two pounds of muriate or sulphate potash which should be 
raked into the soil thoroughly. 
PLANTING. For exhibition flowers, dahlias should be 
planted at least three feet apart each way, that is, the large 
varieties, and two feet each way for the small kinds Dig the 
holes at least six inches deep. Place the tuber horizontally in 
the bottom of the hole with the bud an inch or so from the 
stake. Cover the roots with about two inches of soil. As the 
plants grow the hole may be filled in by cultivating. 
PLANTING OF GREEN PLANTS. Set out plants in late 
afternoon or on a cloudy day, removing pot from plant. Make 
sure that plant is planted deep enough and if the following day 
should be hot and sunny, suggest shading plant with a peach 
basket during the heat of the day. Fill hole gradually with dirt 
as plant grows. 
STAKING. Five to six-foot stakes will be required to sup- 
port tall growing varieties. The stakes should be set in at the 
time of planting. If you wait until later to drive in the stakes, 
much damage may be done to the roots of the plants. 
EXHIBITION BLOOMS. To get large blooms you should 
disbud your plants. Leave only one stalk growing out of the 
ground. Let three sets of leaves appear and then pinch out 
the center or crown of the plant. Branches will appear at the 
base of each leaf. On these branches there will be three buds. 
Pinch out the two side buds, allowing the center one to develop. 
New branches will appear in the form of laterals between the 
leaves and stalk. Pinch out all these latterals below the re- 
maining bud except the two nearest the main stalk. When 
your blooms are cut, these two laterals will develop into the 
next set of blooms. 
DIGGING. After the first heavy frost, the tops of the plants 
will blacken and dry. A few days to a week after a frost the 
tops should be cut off and the clumps dug up. They should be 
carefully dried off in the sun for a few hours before being stored. 
STORAGE. Store the tubers in boxes or barrels in a cool 
place. The best storage temperature is about 45 degrees 
Fahrenheit. The storage atmosphere should be moist enough 
to prevent excess drying of the roots and at the same time not 
sO moist as to encourage mold or storage rots. If you have a 
very choice clump, wrap it in wax paper, such as comes around 
bread. You will find this will keep your roots almost perfect. 
It is just as good as dipping in paraffine. 
Page Twenty EMMONS’ 

