Bulbs remain dormant for about three months after digging, and will not usually start 
growth during that time. If they should grow, they will not be quite so vigorous as otherwise. 
They should not be planted before the last of January if dug in October. This is of impor- 
tance to residents of the Southern States and California, who purchase Northern grown bulbs. 
There are several kinds of thrips, only one of which affects glads, Other plants do not 
harbor the glad thrips, so that control measures are confined to glad plants and bulbs ex- 
clusively. It is a very small insect, almost microscopic in size, that is found between the 
sheath of the leaf or flower and the stem, where it sucks the juices from the plant. The 
blooms of thrips-infested plants appear to be shrivelled and discolored. Thrips fly, at least 
across a city block, so your neighbor should be on the alert also. 
Disinfectants must reach the bug to be effective. This means you should use considerable 
force in spraying the growing plants, because glad leaves fit snugly to the stems. 
For the plant spray, use a solution of 414 teaspoons of tartar emetic, Y% pound of brown 
sugar, and 3 gallons of water, and spray the plants every ten days or so. 
For the bulb dip, use 1 ounce of corrosive sublimate in 7 gallons of water, and soak the 
bulbs over night just before planting. Use wood or earthen containers and cloth bags. The 
powder should be dissolved first in a little hot water. 
Another effective dip is made with Lysol. Stir the Lysol in water at the rate of one 
teaspoonful to a quart of water, and leave the bulbs in the solution for a few hours. Metal 
containers may be used, Renew the solution after a few dips. 
REMEMBER, all these drugs are deadly poisons. They are all usually sold at any drug 
store. 
A handy treatment for thrips control for bulbs in storage is the use of Naphthalene flakes. 
These flakes generate a gas that kills both the thrips and their eggs. Use a tight container, 
and sprinkle the flakes over the bulbs at the rate of a teaspoonful to 100 large bulbs. Do not 
leave the bulbs in this gas longer than two or three weeks, as there is danger of killing the 
buds on the bulbs. 
Corrosive sublimate and Lysol also reduce the scab disease on bulbs. But for other dis- 
eases of bulbs the furnace is about the only effective remedy. Plant clean bulbs on new ground, 
if you have lost bulbs through disease. By destroying every suspected bulb, and by rotating 
my plantings each season around over my farm, I have always been successful in keeping my 
bulbs disease-free. 
If you have had trouble with thrips or disease, do not give up. Both troubles may just 
disappear the next season, as many glad lovers have found. Glad thrips do not live over out 
of doors in freezing weather, and diseases often are overcome by resistant varieties, Indeed, 
the development of resistant. strains is an important modern way of fighting diseases in many 
cultivated plants. 

Plant a Victory Garden again this year. And lighten up the edges with a planting of 
bright glads. And when the need for Victory Gardens becomes less acute, as it surely will and 
soon, then folks will want to turn to happier things, away from the memories of war. One 
thing they are sure to turn to, in the years to come, is the raising of more flowers. By ac- 
quiring small bulbs or bulblets of the finer newer glads now, perhaps you will be in position 
then to help satisfy this coming demand for fine flowers. 

Glads are bright and cheery. Glads have a wide variety of colors, making it easy for you 
to select your favorite colors. Glads have such nice handy stems, so that you can make them 
stay put in any desired position. Glads are not temperamental, but are easy to grow. Glads 
are easy to cut, and stay nice for a long time after being cut. Glads are never messy in basket 
or vase. Glads are available for any color scheme or arrangement imaginable, Glads are a 
good flower. 
