Lycoris squamigera. Amaryllis Halli. The umbel resembles that of Brunsvigia 
rosea but with lilac pink flowers. Blooms in the fall when well established. Plant 
about 4” deep in good loamy soil containing leaf mould. Part shade is very good tho 
ours are in full sun. Leaves have a short season of growth in the spring. This species 
as well as the following are fully hardy in the north. Price $1.00 ea. 
L. purpurea. This one is a shy bloomer here and probably must become well 
established before flowering. We have never seen the flowers. Culture like Squami- 
gera and it is also hardy in the north. $2.50 ea. 
Narcissus and Daffodils 
Both belong to the genus Narcissus of the Amaryllidaceae. Their popularity needs 
no promotion as no garden is considered complete without them. 
Culture. All Daffodils except the Polyanthus Narcissus are hardy both in the mild 
climate of the south as well as in the colder northern states. In the north especially it 
is best to plant the bulbs rather deep where the frost does not reach. Six inches is 
about right. Smaller bulbs like Jonquils may go more shallow and be mulched. In 
California too and all the south there is an advantage in deep planting. We plant the 
Trumpets at least 4” deep. Plant September to November. Poeticus very early. All 
do well in pots. 
Sandy loam is the best soil, but any good rich garden soil will do. The addition 
of thoroly decayed manure is a help. Use no fresh manure. The addition of lime to 
the soil is good, and necessary if leaf mould is used, as they need a mildly alkaline or 
neutral soil. Lime is advisable only in sandy soils. 
In pots. Most Narcissi force easily. Pot the bulbs early for earlier flowers, Sept. 
to Oct. The soil should be % sandy loam, % leaf mould and perfectly decayed stable 
manure, (use both or either one). Water the pots well. The Polyanthus varieties like 
Paper White, Chinese Lily and Soiliel d’Or, may be then placed in a cool room and 
receive sufficient water to start growth. But the Trumpet Daffodils and all other 
hardy Narcissus need a more prolonged period under quite cool conditions to promote 
root growth. A good way is to plunge the pots in a cold frame or pit outside in the 
shade, after the first watering, and cover pots with 6” of sand, surrounding the sides 
well. Thus they will be cool and roots will develop. The sand will prevent evaporation. 
As soon as they are well rooted they can be brought inside. Examine the pots 
first in about 6 weeks. The roots should penetrate the soil to the sides of the pot. By 
reversing pots held in both hands and tapping edge of pot one can with care lift the 
pot up to see if roots have reached the proper stage. (This takes about 4 hands.) There 
is no use to try to force the bulbs before abundant root development is reached. Only 
failure results. 
The room temperature for forcing can be about 55° or 60° at night. Not much 
warmer during day. A little more warmth during day will hasten the flowers but it 
may also cause them to blast if too warm. Better keep them cool until buds show. 
Then not over 70°. Set pots in a sunny window. 
Trumpet Daffodils 
These are the large trumpet Daffodils. This year we have added several of the 
newer and later sorts. 
Alasnam. Wide, short, densely frilled trumpet of pure deep yellow, a shade deeper 
than perianth. Very early. 35c ea. $3.00 per doz. 
Beersheba. A magnificent new white Daffodil. Very large flowers, nearly 5” 
across. $2.50 ea. 
Dawson City. A fine garden and exhibition variety. A broad flat perianth with 
beautiful flanged trumpet. Golden yellow self. 40c ea. 
Diotima. Considered by experts the best of the super-giants. Flower 6” wide on 
2 ft. stems. Beautifully proportioned. Perianth deep primrose yellow, trumpet deeper 
yellow. 60c ea. 
Hector Treub. Uniform deep golden yellow. An improved King Alfred. Very 
early and easy in pots. 35c ea. 
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