Farin Seeds 
ALFALFA 
Rich in proteins and lime—hence a great 
feed crop for dairy cows, beef cattle, 
hogs, sheep. A marvelous soil builder 
and soil restorer, too, when properly 
inoculated. 
We carry a full range of selected Alfalfa 
varieties, all well suited to the needs of 
this territory, and of the highest quality. 
CLOVERS 
Medium Red —The most valuable of the 
Clover family. Makes two crops the sec- 
ond year. Does not exhaust the soil, but 
enriches it. 
Sweet, White Blossom — Most abundant 
growth of any of the Clovers. Makes a 
pasture earlier than other crops and will 
keep stock in good condition until winter 
regardless of heat and drought. Use to 
build up worn out fields. 
Alsike — Very hardy. Does better on 
moist land than other varieties of Clo- 
ver. Suitable for hay or pasture. When 
sown with other grasses, forms a thick 
undergrowth and greatly increases the 
yield. Frequently sown both with Me- 
dium Red Clover and with Timothy, and 
the quality of hay thus produced is ex- 
cellent. Finer and more leafy than Me- 
dium Red Clover and cattle prefer it. 
SEED CORN 
More and more, the problem of 
choosing seed corn is becoming a 
local problem. It’s of prime impor- 
tance to have the varieties that 
best fit your own growing con- 
ditions, 
Our selection of seed corn is built 
on intimate knowledge of this 
district—and conscientious appli- 
cation of that knowledge. So you 
are always in good hands when 
you buy seed corn here. 

Other Clovers—Space doesn’t permit list- 
ing of all our offerings of Clover. We 
have all the varieties common to our 
section, each one selected and handled 
with expert care and caution, so as to 
assure you the top yields and best 
quality. 
GRASSES 
Orchard Grass—Hardy, quick-growing. 
Gives a large yield of excellent hay. 
May be cut several times during season. 
Not recommended for lawn use. 
Rye Grass, Domestic—Fast-growing one- 
year grass. Makes a full crop, yields 
abundantly, and matures all in one sea- 
son. Helpful as a nurse crop to other 
grasses. 
Sudan—The ideal emergency hay and 
pasture crop for late planting. Never 
plant until ground is thoroughly warmed. 
22 
Timothy — Unsurpassed as a crop for 
hay. Relished by all kinds of stock, es- 
pecially horses. Not suited for permanent 
pasture. 
Brome Grass—Drought defying, resistant 
to frost and extreme heat alike. Starts 2 
to 3 weeks earlier than native prairie 
grasses, and stays green later in fall. 
Produces abundant pasturage and enor- 
mous crops of high grade hay. 
Rape—One of the very finest pastures for 
economical production of pork, mutton, 
or beef. A good crop gives you 12 to 15 
tons of green food per acre. 
SEED POTATOES 
Our Certified Stocks are the most 
economical you can plant, be- 
cause they reduce your hazards, 
give you bigger production and 
fewer culls. They are true to name 
-+.- grown especially for seed 
stock ...more highly disease 
resistant . . . tagged for origin. 

Soy Beans—The crop of many purposes. 
Excellent for hay, ensilage, grain, and 
soil improvement. Ground soy beans are 
as good or better than Oil Meal for mix- 
ing with your grains in a balanced dairy 
ration. 
We offer the highest quality seed of a 
good range of varieties. Consult us about 
the choice of varieties best suited to your 
own needs. 
Vetch—A great producer, for hay, pas- 
turage, or silage. Good cover crop and 
soil builder. May be sown spring or fall, 
is not particular as to soil, and needs 
only moderate moisture. 
SEED PER ACRE 
AND BUSHEL WEIGHTS 
Lbs. per Lbs. per 
Bu. Acre 
Alfalfa .. 15 to 20 
Barley 
Brome Grass ........; 
Buckwheat 
Clover, Alsike 
Clover, Medium Red.. 
Clover, Mammoth Red 
Clover, Sweet ... 
Clover, White 
Cow Peas, broadcast. 
Flax, broadcast 
Grass, Kentucky Blue. 
Grass, Orchard 
Kaffir Corn, broadcast 
Millet, for hay 
Millet, for seed 
Oats 
Rape, broadcast 
Reed's Canary Grass. 
Rye, broadcast 
Sorghum, for fodder.. 
Soy Beans, broadcast. 
Soy Beans, in drills... 
SudanGrass,broadcast 
Sudan Grass, in drills 
Timothy 
Vetches, broadcast .. 
ee eee eeores 


Best Lawn Mixture—Our selected lawn 
mixture is the very finest combination of 
high quality seeds ... a marvelous mix- 
ture that years of experimenting have 
proved to be safe and sound. It produces 
a lawn like a carpet of green velvet... 
smooth, even, and thick. All the grasses 
in it are fine-bladed and deep-rooting. 
Shade Mixture—Wherever shade makes 
it difficult to obtain a good lawn, our 
special shade mixture is heartily recom- 
mended. Excellent quality, shade-endur- 
ing grasses and clovers ... blended into 
a mixture that will give surprising results. 
Kentucky Blue Grass—Produces a deep 
dark green lawn of close, thick turf. 
Maintains its green color until late in © 
fall. Roots are deep, plants very hardy. 
White Clover—Very desirable in lawn 
mixtures because of its rapid, low growth 
and creeping stems. Valuable as a green © 
cover for poor ground. Very hardy. 
Rye Grass—A rapid grower, valuable in — 
lawn mixtures demanding quick effect. — 
Not long lasting. Good in moist soils. 
Chewings Fescue—Widely used for put- 
ting greens, fairways and tees. Very 
hardy, produces thick, durable turf, even 
under unfavorable. conditions. 
Red Top—Particularly suitable for wet, 
low spots, as it stands wet weather, 
or even overflowing, better than other 
grasses. Also does well on almost any 
good, rich soil. Often thrives where blue 
grass fails. However, it should not be 
considered as competitive with blue 
grass, but as a good supplement for it. 
Bent — Makes a thick, dense turf on 
heavy, sour soils and being of a semi- 
creeping habit will recover the ground 
after injury. Unexcelled for fine lawns 
and putting greens. 

HOW TO FIGHT CRAB GRASS 
Crab grass is an annual which propagates 
itself by re-seeding. During early growth it 
looks much like grass, but when it matures 
and spreads it is easily recognized by its 
“fingered” head. Full grown, it smothers 
out the grass. 
Crab grass doesn’t start until warm weather. 
Therefore, the first step in fighting it is to 
plant plenty of good seed early, and fertil- 
ize early. When the lawn has a vigorous 
start, it doesn’t give the weed an opening. 
Next, before last year’s crab grass seed has 
a chance to sprout, treat the lawn with lead 
arsenate, 20-25 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. applied 
as dust or spray. Damage to the blue grass 
will be avoided if the treatment is followed 
by application of a fertilizer rich in nitrogen. 
Where crab grass actually has appeared, a 
direct chemical attack is necessary. New 
“selective” killers have now been per- 
fected which kill the pest without perma- 
nent injury to the lawn. (Ask us about them.) 
Along with these methods of attack, the or- 
dinary routine of mowing, watering, and 
fertilizing should be regulated to help the 
fight. High cutting helps, because a thick 
mat of grass has a better chance to smother 
crab grass seedlings. 
Watering infrequently but heavily helps, 
too, because the young seedlings can't 
reach the deep moisture. Fertilizing should 
be done well before the crab grass season, 
or after it. 
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