
Pere 
TOMATOES (Continued) 
Ponderosa—One of the largest varieties. 
Spreading large vines. Solid, fine fla- 
vored, pink, with small seed cells. Some- 
what rough and flat. Have a tendency to 
crack. 88 days. 
Pritchard — A cross between Marglobe 
and Cooper's Special, developed by 
U. S. Department of Agriculture. Large, 
solid, smooth, round fruit with thick 
walls. Rather light scarlet. 73 days. 
Rutgers — Second early variety. Large 
thick stems, vigorous foliage. Fruits sim- 
ilar to Marglobe but flatter at-stem end. 
Bright red, with thick walls. Red, firm 
flesh, low acidity. 72 days. 
Stokesdale — An extremely important 
new development. Smooth, 7-oz. fruit, 
brilliant color, exceedingly solid flesh 
and small seed cavities. Matures in the 
second-early group, a full week earlier 
than the Marglobe group. Usually ahead 
of Bonny Best, too—and 2 ounces heavier. 
Small Fruited 
Red and yellow varieties, shaped like 
miniature pears, plums, and cherries; 
very attractive in appearance and pop- 
ular for preserves. 
TURNIPS 
White Fleshed 
Purple Top White Globe—All purpose 
variety. Large, sweet tops. Smooth, 
globe-shaped roots, purple-red above, 
white below. Sweet, tender, crisp white 
flesh. 50 to 60 days. 
Amber Globe—Chiefly grown for stock, 
but used for table when young. Tops 
large, cut leaved. Roots round, large, 
smooth, globe-shaped, light yellow with 
green top. Fresh yellowish white, of 
good quality. 76 days. 
Foliage Turnip 
Shogoin or Japanese Foliage—Recently 
introduced and rapidly gaining popular- 
ity. 18 to 20-in. bright green tops, strap 
leaved. Roots are semi-round, and white. 
Very mild and tender. 70 days. 
Rutabaga or Swede Turnip 
American Purpletop — Hardy and pro- 
ductive. Tender, firm, light yellow, sweet 
flesh. 88 days. 
All Vegetable Seeds 
10c PER PACKET 
UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED 
In bulk quantities at money-saving prices. 
Special quotations to market gardeners. 
Prices subject to change without notice. 


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OKRA or GUMBO. Do not plant un- 
til ground is warm, as this is a 
tender, hot weather plant. Pick 
pods before they develop woody 
fibres. 
ONION SETS. Onion sets used in- 
stead of seeds will produce earlier 
crops of green onions or large 
bulbs. Plant sets right side up and 
cover with garden rake; then firm 
the soil well over the sets. 
ONION. Plant as soon as soil can 
be prepared. For best yield, plant 
on very fertile land—fall plowed, 
and thoroughly fertilized. When 
plants are a few inches tall, thin 
to prevent crowding—using the 
plants removed as green onions. 
Those left to become fully ripe can 
be stored for winter. Cultivate and 
hand weed crop every 2 weeks 
during summer. 
PARSLEY. Does best in rich, mel- 
low loam. Seed is slow to germi- 
nate, and is helped by soaking in 
warm water over night before 
planting. Sow early and not too 
deeply. When curled varieties are 
about 3” tall, cut off all leaves. 
The new growth will be brighter 
and better curled. 
PARSNIP. Plant in rich, sandy 
loam, thoroughly pulverized. Seed 
requires plenty of moisture for 
germination and should be sown 
early. Dig after a killing frost. 
Freezing improves parsnips, so 
some can be left in the ground all 
winter and used in spring. For 
storage, bury in dry sand. 
PEAS. For early crop, plant in 
light, rich soil. For general crop, 
a rich loam or clay soil is best. 
Plant at 2-week intervals for con- 
tinuous supply. Soak seeds in 
water the night before planting. 
Peas need moderate temperature, 
plenty of moisture. Light frosts do 
not injure them so they may be 
planted early in spring. Varieties 
more than 114’ tall should be 
staked when 4” to 6” tall. 
For increased yield, INOCULATE! 
Garden peas, like all legume crops, 
almost always benefit by inocu- 
lation. Quantity and quality of 
the crop are increased when the 
beneficial nitrogen-fixing bacteria 
are present in sufficient numbers. 
PEPPERS. Warm, mellow soil in 
sheltered location is best. Start 
under glass. Cultivate regularly, 
drawing soil up around stems. 
When plants are 7" to 8" tall, hoe 
in light dressing of commercial 
fertilizer. Do not plant hot peppers 
near sweet; they are apt to cross. 
PUMPKIN. Cultivate practically 
the same as melons or cucumbers. 
RADISH. Soil should be light, quick 
and rich to ensure rapid growth. 
Slow growth makes the flavor too 
VEGETABLE GROWING CHART 
strong. Sow as early as ground 
can be worked, as Radishes are 
very hardy. Make successive sow- 
ings up to hot weather. When in 
the third leaf, thin to give roots 
plenty of room. Pull promptly 
when mature. The secret of crisp, 
delicious radishes is quick growth, 
prompt picking. 
RHUBARB. Sow in cold frame in 
spring and transplant into rows as 
soon as plants are large enough. 
In fall Or the following spring 
transplant to permanent location 
in rows 3’ to 5’ apart each way. 
Stalks should not be taken for 
use the first year. 
SPINACH. Plant very early in 
spring—or start seed in fall (giv- 
ing it protection by 3” of straw 
over the winter) and enjoy an 
early spring crop. Cut all spinach 
before hot weather as it doesn't 
do well in extreme heat. Sow again 
in August or September for fall 
crop. Spinach should be gathered 
before the flower spike appears. 
SQUASH. Plant about same time 
as corn—and in hills. Does best in 
rich, sandy loam, and is helped 
by fertilizing the hills. When in 
the third leaf, thin to 4 plants per 
hill. Cover every fourth joint with 
earth to encourage extra root for- 
mation. Bush varieties may be 
planted in hills 3’ to 4’ apart. 
SWISS CHARD. Requires about 
same treatment as beets. Cultivate 
frequently. Leaves may be gath- 
ered during summer and fall. New 
ones will grow quickly. 
TOMATOES. Do best in sandy, well 
pulverized loam. Sow seed in hot- 
bed or indoors. When plants are 
about 2” high, set out, 3” apart, 
in boxes or pots—later transplant 
into the garden. Or keep in flats 
until all danger of frost is past, 
and then set plants out directly 
into the garden. Water around the 
roots of the plants when setting 
them out, if ground is dry. Culti- 
vate frequently until plants shade 
the ground. Remove all but the two 
or three strongest branches. Study 
methods of staking and training 
vines and adopt the one best suited 
to your situation. 
TURNIPS. For summer greens or 
roots, sow as early as radishes 
and lettuce. Thin out when plants 
are 1” high. Sow again in sum- 
mer for fall and winter use. Tur- 
nips do best when most of their 
growth is made in autumn or early 
spring. Should be grown rapidly 
for best flavor and texture. 
WATERMELON. Requires about 
same culture as muskmelon, ex- 
cept the vines need more room. 
Fertilize each hill liberally and 
cultivate thoroughly. 
