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LETTUCE, Grand Rapids 




How fo plan 
(Continued from Page 5) 
2. On the farm, white potatoes, 
sweet corn, pumpkins and squash 
may be grown with the field crops, 
leaving the garden for the more 
perishable vegetables and those 
requiring careful cultivation. 

3. Tall-growing crops should be 
placed on north or west side so 
they will not shade the low ones. 
4. Crops which remain in the 
garden throughout the entire 
growing season (parsnips, salsify, 
parsley, tomatoes, peppers, onions 
from seed) should be _ located 
where they will not be disturbed. 
5. Root and cole crops thrive in 
heavy soil. (Cole crops include 
cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, 
kohlrabi.) 
6. In warm, loose soil plant 
sweet corn, beans, tomatoes. 
7. Perennial vegetables — such 
as small fruits, asparagus, rhu- 
barb, and horseradish—should be 
placed at one side or end of the 
garden so they will not interfere 
with plowing and cultivation. 
8. Put vine crops at one side or 
end so as not to overrun smaller 
crops. (Or, if hand cultivating, you 
can interplant melons, pumpkins, 
squash, cucumbers with corn.) 
9. Allow a liberal surplus for 
canning and storing. Now, more 
than ever, you will want to can 
peas, beans, tomatoes, corn, etc. 
You can store for winter use beets, 
carrots, turnips, cabbage, squash.) 
10. Make full use of the area all 
season by succession cropping and 
companion cropping. (See Page 10.) 
Making the layout 
Take a piece of paper — big 
enough so you can put in all the 
information you need. (An easy- 
to-figure scale is 14 inch on the 
paper to 1 foot in your garden.) 
Begin by making a rough diagram. 
Now, with this rough sketch as 
a guide, and with a list of the 
vegetables that your family likes 
and that you have decided you 
can grow in your plot, you're 
ready to begin mapping the ac- 
tual planting. (See page 10 for 
specific ideas.) 
CAUTION: If your plot is on a 
slope, don’t run rows up and down 
hill or precious topsoil and seeds 
will wash away. On nearly level 
ground, run rows the long way of 
the area if you are going to cul- 
tivate by horse or motive power. 
When and where fo plant 
In mapping your planting plan 
you'll need to know when to plant, 
how deep, how far apart, when 
the different vegetables mature, 
etc. All this information you will 
find on page 16. 
List your needs and 
shop early 
When your plan is complete, 
make up your list of seeds, plant 
food, insecticide, etc., and come in 
early. We'll help all we can. You 
know, we're just as anxious as 
you are that your garden shall be 
a success, and we’ll do our part 
by supplying good seeds and all 
the other things you need to do a 
good job. (But remember, under 
present-day conditions, all good 
seed stores are extremely rushed 
during the planting season.) 
Get an early start 
It is most desirable to start to- 
matoes, cabbage, cauliflower, 
kohlrabi, peppers and _ certain 
other crops in flats or hotbeds six 
to eight weeks before the weather 
is suitable for transplanting into 
the garden. 
Any gardener can do this. You 
don’t need expensive or elaborate 
structures, and you can make 
them yourself. 
How to make a seed flat 















Make a shallow wooden box 
about 3 inches deep, and some- 
thing like 12 inches wide and 18 
inches long. Just fairly sturdy con- 
struction will do. Allow 4 to 14- 
inch cracks between the bottom 
boards to provide good drainage. 
Fill with good garden soil, plac- 
ing about 1 inch of coarser mate- 
rial in the bottom and filling bal- 
ance with fine, sifted soil. Firm 
well along edges, add more sifted 
soil and level off. 
Sow seeds in furrows 2 inches 
apart and about 14 to '% inch 
deep. Cover with sifted soil or 
clean sand. Smooth and firm well. 
Water thoroughly, but gently so 
as not to wash out any seed. 
Place in a warm spot — about 
702 Fs 
Put a piece of burlap or muslin 
over the box to hold moisture in 
the soil. It will hasten germina- 
tion. Remove cover as soon as the 
plants start to come up. 
(Continued on Page 9) 
