num, (not so likely to bloom until well established.) Clivia. Order one in bud (75c 
extra) and you have a flower in 2 or 3 weeks, often less. Haemanthus, especially 
Katherinae or Multiflorus. They are worth their high price. Hymenocallis all force 
easily from the varities of Ismene to Spider Lilies. Don’t try to rush the Ismene, 
start them “easy.” They do not force as early as the two Spider Lilies which are 
usually evergreen.Elisena longipetala is very closely related and its culture in pot 
or garden is like that of Ismene and Spider Lilies. Sprekelia formosissima superba 
is an ideal pot bulb with evergreen foliage and rich blood-red flowers of unusual 
shape that flowers at unexpected times thru the year. We suspect that if you let 
it get on the dry side then water freely and often it may produce flowers, like 
sume other Amaryllids. But we have not tested this. I do know that a marked 
bulb bloomed 8 times in 6 months in our field. Tulbaghia, nice in pots but do not 
flower until well established. Thereafter it seems to flower the year around from 
good clumps. 
In the other plant families cne may pot now the summer growing Oxalis list- 
ed in this catalog. The three varieties are all very lovely. The species O. crassipes 
is evergreen and blooms the year around but is not as pretty as O. lasiandra or 
Deppel These must be started “easy”. Too much heat and moisture will rot the 
ulbs. 
Orchids do not give immediate results. Usually Cypripediums will give their 
exquisite flowers within two years but we have one now flowering that was di- 
vided and planted only 9 months ago. Epidendrums flower when a small clump is 
made. We do not recommend Bletilla for pots tho others say they will force. But 
our customers do report success. They are hardy tho and nice in garden. 
Callas are indispensable in pots. It is too late to start the larger whites but 
a good time to pot Baby and the Colored Callas. 
Billbergias, Tuberous Begonias, Fancy Leaf Caladiums, Gloxinias, Anemones 
and Ranunculus all deserve your attention. The last two give gorgeous flowers 
and are so inexpensive that all should grow a few in pots and many in the gar- 
den, To encourage this and to make you acquainted with them we have cut the 
price of the stock on hand to below pre-war levels. 
Amorphophallus revieri and Sauromatum venosum are two bulbs that will 
flower without being potted, tho it is usually safer and better to pot them. They 
may later be shifted to a shady place in the garden. They are better with only a 
little watering before the foliage appears after flowering. They will do better if 
shifted to a shady place in garden in the spring. 
Potting Directions 
The pot for a 2%” Amaryllis bulb should be about, 7” diam. This size is about 
right for most bulbs of this size. Give largey bulbs a size in proportion. Gloxinias, 
Tuberous Begonias, No. 1 Anemones and Ranunculus will be fitted by a 4” pot 
but it is better to pot 3 in a larger pot. 
It is most important that drainage be perfect and the soil of a friable texture 
that allows water to drain perfectly. Cover the hole in the bottom of pot with re- 
versed bits of broken pots and on top of that small pebbles then coarse sand will 
help. An imperfectly drained soil often causes bulbs to rot before starting and if 
they start they do not grow and flower well. Yellow tipped leaves often indicate 
poor drainage. The pots should be clean and scalded. 
The proper soil is a rich sandy loam with the addition of thoroly rotted leaf 
mould. Add peat or oak-leaf mould for acid loving plants. Use no fresh manure or 
other fertilizer at planting. Be very discreet even in using very old rotted manure. 
Rotted dairy manure is rather safe. A heaping table-spoonful of bone meal is 
good. Thoroly mix all ingredients. 
Most small bulbs should be planted just under soil surface. An Amaryllis 
and most large bulbs may have 2/3 of bulb above surface. When placed, the soil 
may be settled by a thoro watering, once. After that no mcre water is usually 
needed until after growth begins, altho the soil should not become quite dry at 
base of bulb. A wet condition very long often rots a dormant bulb before they 
start, or later. The soil surface may appear dry and yet be too wet for starting 
bulbs at center of pot. 
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