HOW TO GROW DELPHINIUMS 
Use florists’ flats to start the seeds; the deeper the 
flat, the better. Fill the flats with sifted soil consist- 
ing of two parts of top soil (preferably taken from a 
place where no flowers or vegetables were grown), 
and one part of sand; level. Put a pineh of Semesan 
in the seed packet, shake well, and sow thickly right 
on the surface of the soil, and in rows. Press the 
seeds down firmly with a piece of two-by-four. and 
cover thinly, not deeper than twice the diameter of 
the seed, with the same soil mixture. Plunge the 
flat partially in water (well, spring, or rain, not city 
water) until the moisture works its way to the sur- 
face, then place the flat in a sheltered place outdoors 
where direct sunlight will not touch it. but where 
there is plenty of diffused light and free circulation 
ef air. Avoid drippings from trees, shrubs, and 
eaves. Never allow the surface of the soil to dry; 
avoid overwatering. In about 10 to 15 days the seed- 
lings will be up. CAUTION: do not use woods dirt, 
wood ashes, domestic peat moss, and manure in the 
seedbed, and never, never use fertilizers. After the 
seedlings are well up, they may be gradually hardened 
to direct sunhght. Should there be signs of damping- 
off, water with Semesan solution, one level tablespoon- 
ful of Semesan to a gallon of water; repeat if neces- 
sary. After the first true leaves appear, the seed- 
lings may be transplanted an inch apart. If the 
eVowing season is short, transplanting may be omitted 
and the seedlings may be wintered right in the flat. 
Tack wire screen over the flat to keep out rodents and 
other pests; then, after the first hard freeze, mulch 
with straw, hay, excelsior, or glass wool. In case of 
ereenhouse sowing, the seedlings should be trans- 
planted at least once before setting them out in their 
permanent place. Early in the spring, when the seed- 
lings in the outdoor flats begin to push up, remove the 
mulch, and shortly ‘thereafter transplant the seed- 
lings into bands or pots, allow them to establish them- 
selves, and set them out at the first opportunity. Do 
not apply lime or fertilizers at this time; they should 
have been applied the previous fall. or may be ap- 
plied 6 weeks after the seedlings have been planted 
in their permanent place. Where summers are very 
warm and long, a northern exposure should be se- 
lected for the permanent planting; this will insure a 
lenger lite. In milder climates, however, where suni- 
mers are cool and short, a full exposure to sun is to be 
preferred. Keep the plants free from weeds, and the 
surface soil loose. Mildew may be checked by sul- 
fur; and mites, which may be recognized by the 
blackened, gnarled appearance of growing tips and 
buds, by rotenone. There is no remedy against crown 
and root rots. Plants showing signs of these diseases 
should be dug up and destroyed without delay, other- 
wise heavy losses may ensue. When the spikes at- 
tain some length, and before they begin to bloom, 
they should be supported by bamboo canes, one cane 
successively tied to each spike. After it has finished 
blooming, the spike should be cut down. Older plants 
of delphinium do not need winter protection. They 
should be fertilized with some complete fertilizer at 


