rad 
ed after dipping. We found no injury to any of these and we found no 
difference in length of time to bloom between any of the treatments 
with any variety planted at the same time. From past definite trials, 
_ bulbs dipped in Cresol must not be allowed to remain wet for too great 
a length of time before planting. 
As a suggestion for those finding it difficult to obtain Cresol Com- 
pound, we suggest taking what you can get, whether USPX or USPX1. 
since both have 50% Cresol and 35% linseed. The balance is made up 
of Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Hydroxide with slight variation 
of amounts, probably for the purpose of alkalizing the compound and 
would have no effect on results. 
Dipping would appear to be useless in so far as any virus disease 
of glads is concerned. A coating of any fungicide on your bulbs when 
planted should help in the prevention of disease caused by fungus. 
We do not know whether it would be advisable to have the fungi- 
cide deposit on the bulbs in soluble form or not. Probably plenty of 
rain early in the season would have a tendency to carry the soluble 
fungicides deeper into the soil. A season similar to to the past, with 
limited rainfall, would probably leave the bulbs protected for a long 
time and your chances’ of harvesting disease free bulbs be much 
better. Authorative sources tell us that the fungus is in all the soil 
containing any humus inactive when dry and active when wet. This 
seems to be borne out by the fact that wet harvest season shows 
more disease in the bulbs of a variety dug later in the fall than the 
Same variety dug earlier. 
Instructions in using Bi Chloride recommend using one - half as 
much Sodium Chloride as Bi Chloride in order to dissolve the Bi 
Chloride. We would guess that this is wrong. We are not guessing 
when we suggest substituting Amomonium Chloride for the Sodium 
Chloride. 
There has been considerable discussion for years as to the proper 
length of time to leave bulbs in dipping solution. Any dip will kill 
thrip, even water if used long enough. We do not know about the 
eggs. We couldn’t find any tc play with last season. Do not kid 
yourself that you have killed thrip and arranged for the prevention 
of disease if you do not have the bulbs thoroughly wet from the out 
side to the bulb itself. Along this line, using dye as indicator, and 
spreader to hasten the process, we have been unable to find complete 
penetration in less than one half hour. There was no lot not complet- 
ly saturated in an hour. However, since none of the dips being used 
and recommended at present will harm any bulb dipped six to eight 
hours, and Yvaen PLANTED, why be in such a rush? The above tests 
all with the tops carefully cut off, not broken off. 
