Henry LeurHarpr Nursery 25 
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dividual buds. It is the only effective spray for the 
eradication of blister mite on pears, the curl disease 
on peaches and all the various scale insects affecting our 
different fruit trees. Regarding apple and pear scab 
on fruit trees, it cannot be better combated than with ~ 
Lime Sulpher applied in early spring. Where scab is 
prevalent on apples and pears a Copper Spray may be 
necessary in the spring as soon as the fruit has set and 
this should be made a combined Fungicide and Insecti- 
cide Spray by adding to the Copper Spray some Arse- 
nate of Lead, which should be used under all circum- 
stances, to kill caterpillars of all kinds, the Codlin moth 
worm, and in fact all “leaf-eating’”’ insects. Our aim 
should be to use the spray more as a preventative meas- 
‘sure than to wait until wholesale damage is done. If 
the Winter spray has been done thoroughly, no serious 
outbreak of sucking insects (Aphis) should occur, but 
if the latter are troublesome as they sometimes are on 
cherries and young apple trees, a contact spray of. 
Black Leaf 40 and soap applied under good pressure 
so as to get the spray on the underside of the leaves 
where the Aphis hide, should be used. If the trees 
afe not too large, it is much more practical to keep a 
watchful eye for the first appearance of Aphis, and as 
these always work on the very tips of the young 
branches, bend these latter gently over, and dip bodily 
in a vessel containing the spray. Or, paint the branches | 
with a brush. This will make a really thorough job, 
killing everything off entirely. : 
In some sections, apple trees are affected with 
Canker. This disease is the most serious of apple or- 
chards, and if left to work at will, first of all Se’ 
single branches and limbs, and finally whole trees. The 
thorough coating of all surfaces of bark with double 
strength Bordeaux Mixture early in October while not 
actually curing the old canker sores, will, however, 
prevent the outbreak of new canker spots, and the old 
sores will gradually heal up. ; 
Instructions for Espalier Trained Fruit Trees 
PLANTING: The hole should be at least 21/, feet 
square and 2 feet deep. Plant the tree as it arrives, 
removing the wrapper. Spread the roots in their natural 
position to avoid cramping. Cut away any bruised 
roots. Place'top soil at the bottom of the hole. Pack 
Soil firmly about the roots. Soak well with water to 
avoid air pockets. Watering should be done in the 
evening or early morning. Set the tree at least one 
foot away from the wall. Plant the tree deep enough 
so that the graft is one inch above the ground. 
FASTENING: Support of some kind is necessary 
to protect the branches from severe winter winds and 
weight of fruit. There are several methods of fastening 
