3 PATHFINDER GLAD GARDENS 

the bulbs until they are thoroughly cured, and be sure to shake out before the 
bulbs begin to sprout or get new root growth in the Spring. If you can keep the 
temperature above fifty degrees for at least several weeks of the treatment all 
thrip eggs will hatch, and you will get a hundred per cent kill. 
Third step. Assume once more that you still have thrips on your bulbs at 
planting time. Then use the corrosive sublimate or Formaldehyde treatment as 
previously explained. This will destroy thrips as well as their eggs. If you plant 
immediately, you may be absolutely certain that your bulbs went into the soil 
free of thrips, or any disease. 
The fourth step is a measure to combat the migratory thrips—the ones that 
might fly in over your neighbor’s fence. There are several sprays that are recom- 
mended, but I prefer Rototox. It may be secured from the Rototox Company, 813 
Yale St., East Williston, N. Y. It will not injure the foliage or the flowers, and it 
is highly recommended as being effective for controlling thrips. 
If you are one who loves to do things right, you will take all of the above 
four steps, and see that your neighbor takes them with you. They are not expen- 
sive. But it is expensive to buy bulbs, and get no blooms. If for some reason you 
cannot keep in step all through the journey just mentioned, at least take the third 
step, for it is the charm. It is the key to the whole problem. 
DIGGING AND STORAGE—Bulbs should be dug when the foliage begins to turn 
yellow. This is usually about six weeks after blooming. Bulbs should not be 
left in the ground after the plant has died. Varieties that were planted for late 
blooms may have to be dug before the six weeks period for maturity of bulb has 
elapsed. When the early frosts kill the foliage they should be dug anyway. Never 
carry the foliage into your curing or storage room,—it may harbor thrips. Clip 
the tops close to the bulb, and burn when dry. Spread the bulbs three or four 
inches deep in screen-bottomed trays, or thinner if the tray is not ventilated. Cure 
for several weeks either in the open, or indoors, but have plenty of fresh air. Pro- 
tect from intense sun or frost. After curing you may sprinkle on Napthalene flakes. 
Store for the winter in a cool, dry place. Examine occasionally—if bulbs 
are molding, give more ventilation. If condition is serious, expose to direct sun- 
light to kill the mold. 
At your leisure moments during the winter you may remove the old bulb and 
root growth. Before Spring, shake out the Napthalene flakes. 
Your bulbs should now be ready for Spring planting, at which time don’t 
forget the Bichloride of Mercury or Formaldehyde treatment. 
DESCRIPTIVE PRICE LIST OF GLADIOLUS 
All bulbs plainly labeled. Bulbs from this list are priced prepaid if order totals 
one dollar, otherwise add 20c for postage. L. means large bulbs of 1% inches in 
diameter or over. M. means medium bulbs of % to 1% inches in diameter. 
ABE (Ellis) (Late) Tall growing apricot salmon and orange. A good cut flower 
variety which may replace Betty Nuthall. L. Each 10c; 10 for 80c. 
ALICE REID (Gelser) (Early) Tall, LaFrance pink, overlaid with geranium pink. 
Straight spike with well placed florets. L. 2 for 15ce; 10 for 60c. 
AMADOR (Kingsley) (Mid-season) Glossy brick red with darker fleckings. Tall 
straight spike. One of the best medium reds. Reliable in hot weather. L. 
2 for 12c; 10 for 50c. 
AMRITA (Palmer) (Mid-season) Shades of light buff. Yellow throat. 6 or more 
heavily ruffled florets open at a time. L. 2 for 15c; 10 for 60c. 
ANNA EBERIUS (Diener) (Early) Deep purple shading to deeper center. Very 
distinct. L. 2 for 12c; 10 for 50c. 
ARIADNE (Mitsch) (Mid-season) Tall white with a pink overlay, and a large 
crimson blotch. Very striking. L. 2 for 15c; 10 for 60c. 
AVE MARIA (Pfitzer) (Early mid-season) Light violet blue with small purple 
blotch. Good placement of florets, strong grower. One of the most popular of 
the light blues. L. 2 for 12c; 10 for 50c. Z 
