CARE AND CULTURE OF GLADIOLUS 
Select a sunny location away from the roots of trees and shrubs. Plant about six 
inches deep, having bulbs five inches apart. 
Place bulbs in a well worked trench in staggered or zigzag row— . * . ° and 
cover at first with about two inches of loam; when shoots begin to appear, work balance 
of loam into the trench. At all times keep the soil loose. As an aid to producing larger 
blooms work in fertilizer around the plants when about a foot or more in height. At the 
time flower spikes appear, abundant watering is very beneficial. 
Bulbs should be dug before leaves turn brown. Cut stock close to the bulb, spread 
them out to dry for two or three days in a sunny location and then place in an open 
shed or room for two weeks or more before storing them away in a cool dry place. Keep 
them spread out and not over three inches deep, give bulbs an occasional airing during 
the winter. 
When cutting flowers, leave at least four leaves remaining on the plant. Positive 
injury to the blooming qualities of the bulbs for the following year will occur if this pre- 
caution is not heeded. 
For cut flowers, cut the spike when first bud fully opens. The remaining buds will 
open nicely and give a longer period of bloom and greater enjoyment. 
Remove wilted blossoms, change water and cut off a portion of the stems each day. 
These will then fit in a smaller vase. 
CONTROL OF THRIP 
This insect can be carried on clothing, from one field to another by birds, high winds 
or in bouquets. Many bulbs are perfectly clean when planted, yet contract Thrip be- 
fore season is over. 
Thrip are black and cream, 1-16 inch long and live in the folding gladiolus leaves. 
Sometimes they can be detected by the silvery sheen on leaves although many times 
discovery is too late and the buds do not open as the insect has extracted all juice from 
them previously. 
When plants are about three inches tall and thrip is found, it is best to use a so- 
lution of the following as a weekly spray. 
Use 1 pound Tartar Emetic, 4 pounds brown sugar to 25 gallons water for weekly 
spray. Tartar Emetic is a deadly poison to human beings. Tartar Emetic spray will not 
burn the foliage. Or use 3 gallons water, tbsp. of Tartar Emetic and 1-3 cup sugar for 
smaller amounts. 
If discovery is made too late, it is best to cut tops off, about six inches from ground 
and burn them, allow bulbs to stay in ground until digging time. The above spray can 
be used on remaining stalk to kill anything which might be left. 
Dig, clean and dry bulbs in usual manner. Place thoroughly dry bulbs in boxes. 
Sprinkle Napthalene Flakes over bulbs at the rate of 1 pound to 3000 bulbs or 1 ounce 
to 100 corms. Immediately cover receptacles with paper to confine fumes. Keep bulbs 
at temperature of about 60 degrees for three weeks. Store in dry place, uncovered, at 
40-50 degrees for winter. 
Warning—Treat stock in Fall, before roots swell or form at base. Napthalene ad- 
hering to bulbs may burn rootlets where they appear. Bulbs must be thoroughly dry 
before treating with Napthalene. 
Bichloride of Mercury can be used to disinfect in proportion of 1 ounce to 8 gallons 
of water, or 10-15 grain tablets to gallon water, or if only a small amount of bulbs use 1-5 
grain tablet to 1 pint water, soaking bulbs in solution for 3 hours. If many varieties to 
soak at the same time, place them in sugar, salt or net bags, labelling each variety, using 
little wood labels. A waterproof pencil can be used on the labels for marking. Do not 
use metal containers. This is done before planting. 
NAPTHALENE FLAKES, 2 POUND PACKAGE, 65c WITH BULB ORDERS 
This is enough for about 5,000 bulbs. 
LYSOL DISINFECTANT.—As a dip for gladiolus bulbs, it has proven very satis- 
factory, 4 teaspoonfuls of Lysol mixed in 1 gallon of water, soaking the bulbs for 6 
hours eliminates thrip and stimulates root growth. 
Although this method has not been tried by us, we have known of others, who have had 
success with Lysol. It may prove more satisfactory than the Mercury method. 
