Some Facts About Dahlia Stock 
For years we have been advocating Michigan sand- 
grown dahlia roots or tubers, because we believe sand- 
grown roots to be much superior to those grown on clay 
or heavier soil. We have plenty of clay soil available 
and it is certain that we would grow our plants on such 
soil if we did not believe the sand-grown stock to be 
better. We can produce a larger root on clay and prob- 
ably a heavier clump, but actual experience has shown 
us that the larger roots such as are grown on heavy soil 
do not keep as well and do not produce as good plants 
when planted on either sand or clay, as do the sand-grown 
roots. 
To back up our claims we quote from several well- 
known authorities: 
From Waite’s “Modern Dahlia Culture” (A. T. De La 
Mare Co., publishers, New York, price, $1.50). 
“Before planting a root, always cut off about one- 
third of it. This will usually result in a better plant. 
“The old root is only needed to sustain the young 
plant until the new shoot has sent out roots of its own 
(the feeding roots), and if the root that is planted is 
very large and whole, 
new roots seem to 
take longer to form, 
and sometimes do not 
form at all. In such 
cases it seems that 
the shoot says:‘“What 
is the use of me 
sending out roots 
when I can get all 
the food I need with- 
out doing so?” 
“Tf the root is not 
cut at planting time 
it will not decay, but 
will be known as a 
‘mother root.’ If this 
root be used again it 
will make a very in- 
ferior plant. 
“Tt has often been 
demonstrated in ac- 
tual practice that the 
size of the root is no 
great factor in the 
ultimate success of 
the plant. A _ good, 
healthy, small root 
sometimes is better 
than a very large 
coarse root which 
may contain less sub- 
stance for nourish- 
ing the plant than the smaller root. 
side shoots? 
_ “Many large roots are hollow in the center and some- 
times may rot even before the shoot develops; they are 
also sometimes very woody and consequently devoid of 
sap.” 
From U. S. D. A. Farmer’s Bulletin No. 1370, “Dah- 
lias for the Home,” by B. Y. Morrison. 
“Tf the dahlia makes roots of excessive size many 
growers recommend cutting off part of the individual 
root, because there is no benefit to the young plant if 
the root is too large, and there is greater advantage in 
having roots of uniform smaller size.” 
From Special Bulletin No. 266 on Dahla Culture, 
History and Classification, Michigan State College, by 
Prof. C. E. Wildon. 
“Bach division should have only one or two tuberous 
roots attached. Dahlia roots vary in form and size. 
When the fleshy roots are large and exceptionally thick, 
WHICH? 

In the above cut we show at the left hand side the division as 
separated from clump. You will note that the eye is attached to 
figure 245; figure 246 has no eye and neck is cracked just below the 
crown. This part of the division is absolutely worthless and could 
only serve to make the division seem larger. Figure 247 shows the 
division trimmed ready for shipment. Note that all unnecessary parts phur. It is best not 
of the division, including the fibrous reots and long tails are trimmed 
off leaving a clean, strong, plump, healthy tuber with a sound neck until just before 
and good eye ready for planting. The cut is about one-third natural 
size, the finished tuber, figure 247, having been about 44 inches long 
and weighing 1!4 ounces or just about half what the original division 
weighed. Why pay postage on unnecessary roots and why send out 
stock that is unfinished in appearance any more than you would send 
out a peach or apple tree with the trunk untrimmed or unstripped of there is one point 
experienced growers have found that if the lower half 
of the fleshy root is cut off, the plant will form a larger 
clump.” 
From “Dahlias” by F. F. Rockwell (The MacMillan 
Co., publishers, New York, price $1.00). 
“When a bulb or a corm is planted, it sends out roots 
directly from its own base, and top growth from its apex 
or upper surface. In the case of a dahlia tuber, however, 
the new growth, both top and root systems, is developed 
from a growing point or “eye,’ the tuber serving 
merely the purpose of supplying food until the new 
plant can gather it directly from the soil, through a root 
system of its own. Without this eye, the tuber is ab- 
solutely worthless. One good strong eye, with enough 
of the tuber accompanying it to give the new growth a 
fair start, is all that is necessary for the development 
of a perfect plant. The most enormous tuber has 
no possible advantage over one just sufficiently large to 
give the necessary push to get the top well started” 
(Page 26). 
“Large tubers are 
no better than mod- 
erate-sized, or even 
small ones, pro- 
vided the latter are 
round and_ plump. 
Very large tubers, in 
fact, are a distinct 
detriment, as the new 
plant is likely to rely 
upon them for nour- 
ishment, instead of 
making roots and 
new tubers of its 
own. Always cut 
away one- to two- 
thirds of such extra, 
large tubers when 
planting, dusting the 
cut surface with sul- 
to do this, however, 
planting. (Page 58).” 
Regardless of the 
size of the dahlia root, 
that must not be over- 
looked; and that is 
the root’s state of maturity. No matter how large or 
how small the root may be when root is harvested, if 
it is not fully matured it is almost certain to shrivel or 
rot. Plants grown on sand usually mature practically all 
of their roots, even those of later growth; but. roots 
grown on heavy land, or wet, soggy land do not seem to 
ripen into a firm solid root which can be depended upon 
to keep in storage or on the counter until planting time. 
The above facts should not be overlooked by those 
who are thinking of buying their dahlias in clump form 
this fall, as immature clumps are almost certain to be 
lost in storage before spring. 
Remember we do not sell or offer for sale undivided 
clumps of dahlia roots at any season of the year; and 
all divisions sold by us are carefully cut to one eye as 
required for planting. 
