
WHEN AND HOW TO TRANSPLANT—When plantlets have 
fully developed their second pair of leaves or “true” leaves as 
they are called, it is best to transplant them either to flats about 
three inches deep or to small pots. Remove them from the seed 
bed gently to damage the roots as little as possible and plant 
somewhat deeper than they originally grew, so that the stems 
will be well supported. 
To assure the largest possible root surface, cut the soil at right 
angles with a sharp knife from top to bottom and transplant with 
the soil. Be sure to make the hole—with the forefinger or a small 
stick—sufficiently large to take the roots in a natural position 
without crowding. With the tips of the thumbs and forefingers 
press the soil very firmly about the roots—not merely against 
the stems on the surface. 
HOW TO FEED SEEDLINGS—When the seedlings have reached 
the stage of transplanting they require more plant food than they 
had in the seed flat mixture. Mix one teacupful of complete 
fertilizer with each bushel of soil mixture to make it fertile. One 
bushel of soil will take care of a great many plantlets. 
TEMPERATURE AND LIGHT—The transplanted seedlings 
should be kept at a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees. If they are 
kept near a window, turn the boxes each day, otherwise the plants 
will lean towards the light and grow lopsided or spindling. 
THE RIGHT SOIL—Soil should be comparatively light in texture 
and preferably not too rich in plant-food. One-third garden loam, 
one-third peat moss and one-third sharp sand will grow healthy 
seedlings. The root systems made by the plants in a soil mixture 
after this formula are truly wonderful. 
WHEN RE-POTTING IS NECESSARY—As the little plants 
grow they may need to be shifted to larger pots to keep them in 
good growing condition up to the time the weather permits their 
being planted outdoors. This transplanting should be done when 
the roots have formed a mat around the inside of the pot. Usually 
it is best to change to a pot only one or two sizes larger than 
that in which the plant has been growing. As before the plant 
should be kept from wilting as much as possible for the first few 
days after being repotted. 
dening sense. 
following spring. 

tables. 
spraying and dusting. 
Garden pests are of three kinds— 
(1) insects, (2) diseases, (3) mis- 
cellaneous pests. 
1. INSECT PESTS—Insects must eat— 
that is why they consume the grow- 
ing things in your garden. There are 
two main kinds: biting insects, and 
sucking insects. The biters are con- 
trolled with stomach poisons placed 
on the leaves they eat. Suckers get 
their food from the juices of the 
plant—not the surface, and must be 
fought with ‘‘contact insecticides’ 
which clog their breathing pores or 
penetrate to their vital organs. 
2. PLANT DISEASES—Fungi or bac- 
teria are controlled (just as insect 
pests are) with spraying or dusting. 
In some cases, the soil is the com- 
municator of the disease, and must 
be disinfected. In other cases, the 
disease may be- transmitted by an 
insect from one plant to another— 
and the insect has to be controlled. 
3. MISCELLANEOUS PLANT PESTS— 
These include gophers, slugs, snails, 
squirrels, etc. 
USE STAFFEL’S 
INSECTICIDES AND 
FUNGICIDES 
Thoroughness of application is essen- 
tial for control. The entire plant must 
be covered, stems and undersides of 
leaves as well as the top. To be 
killed, the insect must be hit by the 
spray. Partial killing off of pests is of 
little advantage. They reproduce so 
fast that unless a thorough job is 
done, the condition soon reyerts to 
its original state. 
That’s why you need GOOD sprayers 
and dusters—built to do the work 
thoroughly, and to LAST. 
Cheap sprayers are never a bargain. 
They do not last and they waste mate- 
rial. They do not give the fine mist 
necessary to coat economically. They 
do not have enough force for the use 
of contact sprays. 


Keeping the garden healthy is not only a matter of 
Of course, reliable and properly 
selected insecticides should be used whenever and wher- 
ever there is any evidence of insect pests. A quick, early 
attack on insects and plant diseases is simply good gar- 
But garden sanitation also calls for keeping the garden 
clean. In fall, be sure to remove and burn all rubbish, 
thus destroying many insect eggs that would develop the 
Also combat plant diseases, wherever possible, by using 
the new disease-resistant strains of flowers and vege- 
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