“FOOD ) WALL WIN ST HER WIA RSA N DA WiRHERE SII EaIE ae 

Preparing the Soil 
Rich, sandy loam is best adapted 
to gardening. Stiff clay must be 
broken up and given plenty of 
fibrous material. Sandy soil should 
have additional fertilizing. 
Be sure to work soil deeply enough, 
making the top three or four inches 
fine and loose. Thorough hoeing 
or raking before planting is a big 
help in keeping down weeds. Do 
not work clay soils when they are 
wet enough to stick to rake or hoe. 
If subsoil is stiff clay, special 
drainage is needed. Tile placed 
three feet below surface and not 
more than eighteen feet apart will 
greatly improve results. 
Planting 
For planting in open’ ground, 
choose a time when the soil is 
moist but not wet. 
Seeds should be covered immedi- 
ately after planting so as to re- 
tain moisture. Press down fine 
earth firmly around seeds so as to 
bring particles into close contact 
with the seed. 
Cultivating 
Stirring the surface soil during the 
period of growth not only kills 
weeds but loosens the ground so 
as to encourage healthy root de- 
velopment. 
It also allows air to enter, and 
helps conserve moisture. 
As plants grow, cultivation should 
become more shallow to avoid in- 
jury to roots. 
A dust mulch of fine soil on the 
surface helps hold the moisture in 
the soil below—but a crust over 
the soil is harmful and should be 
broken up. 
Watering 
While roots may be watered at 
any time, plants should be wa- 
tered early morning or evening. 
Remember that one good soaking 
is better than many light sprink- 
lings. 

PAGE THIRTY FOUR 
ASPARAGUS—Seed should be soaked 24 hours before planting 
—and covered two inches deep in the garden. Thin young 
plants to about one inch apart. Cultivate often. Plants to be 
set in their permanent beds the following spring. 
BUSH BEANS—Do not plant until danger of frost is past 
When planting, see that fine soil is pressed down firmly around 
the seeds. Thin the young plants so that they stand about six 
inches apart. Cultivate only before blooming and never when 
shat Pick frequentiy as pods approach maturity, to get full 
yield. 
POLE BEANS—Plant about same time as Bush beans. Poles 
5 to 6 feet long should be driven into ground in rows about 4 
feet apart with spacing of 3 feet in the row. Run rows north 
and south. Plant 5 to 8 beans around each pole, thinning to 4 
plants later. Hoe frequently. To avoid spreading plant di- 
seases, do not cultivate or pick when plants are wet. 
BEETS—Same time as radishes and lettuce—preferably in 
deep, sandy loam. Have soil fine and loose and press down 
firmly around seed. When tops are 8 in. to 6 in. tall pull them 
and use for cooked greens. Continue this until roots stand 6 
in. apart. 
BRUSSEL SPROUTS—Same culture as late cabbage. 
CABBAGE—Set out early and late varieties as soon as frost 
danger is past. Use plenty of good commercial fertilizer. Cul- 
tivate frequently, every five or six days. For winter storage, 
stand plants upright in cold cellar, with roots in sand. Slight 
freezing will not harm cabbage. 
CAULIFLOWER—Same as for cabbage except that heads must 
be protected from sunlight to assure the desirable white curd. 
Gather and tie the tops of the leaves together loosely to shut 
off light. Do not cramp the heads. 
CELERY—Well pulverized and fertilized seed bed is essential 
—with constant moisture, but not too wet. Cover seed with 
finely sifted soil not over %4-inch deep. When seedlings have 
three or four leaves well started, thin out to three inches apart 
each way, and when 6 in. high (75 to 90 days old) transplant 
to a rich field, setting in double rows 3 to 3% ft. apart with 
8 in. between double rows and 4 in. to 5 in. between plants. 
CHINESE CABBAGE—Set out in rows which have been oc- 
cupied by earlier vegetables. 
COLLARDS—Sow seed thickly in rich ground and transplant 
when about four inches high—or if plants are to remain where 
sown, spread the seed more thinly, and when the young plants 
ae well started, space them out to two or three feet apart in 
e row. 
CORN—Do not plant until all danger of frost is past. Be sure 
soil is well worked and dry—then drop six kernels of corn in a 
shallow hole made with the corner of the hoe. Cover each “hill” 
with about one inch of fine soil pressed down firmly. When 
plants are 6 in. high, thin all but three or four strongest plants 
in each hill. 
EGG PLANT—The seed should be started in a hot bed, as it is 
slow to germinate. Set plants in open ground when 2 inches 
tall and protect from hot sun when young. Be sure to keep 
young plants developing rapidly, never letting them become 
checked. Cultivate freely. To produce large fruits, remove lat- 
eral branches so as to reduce number of fruits per plant. Young 
plants should be shaded from hot sun and sprayed to protect 
from potato bugs. 
ENDIVE—Sow at intervals for continued supply. When well 
started, transplant or thin to one foot apart. To blanche, tie 
outer leaves together over the center when the plants is nearly 
grown.. Just before killing frosts in fall, dig the plants, taking 
plenty of soil with roots—pack closely together and store in 
dark cellar for winter use. 
LETTUCE—Repeat sowings every two weeks to insure a con- 
tinuous supply. For leaf lettuce, thin plants to six inches apart. 
For head lettuce thin to eight inch spacings, in rows 1 inch 
apart. Lettuce grows best and heads best in cool moist weather. 
KALE OR BORECOLE—Requires moist, warm enriched soil. 
Pick leaves as wanted, or pull the whole plant. Leaves are best 
after a frost. 

