IMPORTANT CULTURAL HINTS 
When the plants have been selected, the next step 
in the growing of successful Roses is the study of the 
proper methods of culture. Simple directions ac- 
company every Wyant Rose, but the suggestions 
given below are intended to offer additional help. 
Feel free to write me at any time about your Rose 
problems. I want Wyant Roses to satisfy you. 
Selection of Location 
In selecting the location for your Rose-bed, it is not im- 
portant whether your plants are to get morning or afternoon 
sunlight, but that they do get at least a half day of sun. Part 
shade is even preferable to a full day of sunlight. 
Tree Roots 
Select a location where tree roots cannot interfere with 
your Rose roots. It is surprising how quickly tree roots will 
find a Rose-bed and fill it, consuming food and moisture 
intended for the plants. If tree roots are present, dig a 
trench around the bed as deep as the tree roots extend, 
thereby cutting off all that might attempt to enter the bed. 
This trench may be filled in again immediately, and should 
be dug around the Rose-bed every year if the tree roots 
prove bothersome. 
Plant Early 
The best time in the Spring to plant Wyant Roses is just 
as soon as the soil is workable. The larger part of the gar- 
dening public wait until the warm, sunshiny days of Spring 
to start their planting. This is too late to get good results. 
In this latitude late March is an ideal time, and planting 
as late as May seldom gives the results you anticipate. Fall 
planting is usually even safer than Spring planting, but if 
you can plant in early Spring there is no use losing a whole 
season of enjoyment by waiting until Fall, for early Spring 
planted Hybrid Teas start to bloom in June of the same year. 
Soils 
It is best to keep away from either extremely heavy or 
extremely light soil; loam soils will have more food in them. 
Heavy soils can be improved and made lighter by the ad- 
dition of peat or humus and agricultural slag. Peat or 
humus will also improve light soils and enable them to re- 
tain more moisture. The best soil you can get is the best 
soil for Roses. 
The pH of Soils 
The acidity and alkalinity of soils is designated by pH. 
It has been found that Roses are very tolerant. They will 
grow in a soil from 4.5 pH up to 8 pH, but the best growing 
conditions seem to be found in a soil that is neutral or 
slightly acid—that is, around 6 to 7 pH. Lime in almost 
any form can be used to make soils more alkaline, and 
sulphur to make them more acid. 
Planting 
If you want successful Roses, plant the bushes close to- 
gether, so that the foliage will keep the ground shaded and 
cool—12 to 15 inches is the rule for the Hybrid Teas, the 
taller varieties being placed for the best effect. 
Instead of waiting until the bushes arrive, it is better 
to spade the soil 15 to 18 inches deep several weeks in ad- 
vance, adding plenty of peat or manure, if it is available. 
And if drainage is needed, the bed should be tiled and 
surplus water carried away. Guard against the roots drying 
out from exposure to sun, wind or freezing during planting. 
Do not use chemical fertilizer when planting Wyant Roses; 
only bonemeal and rotted manure or peat may be used at 
planting time. 
Watering 
If the soil around your Roses is kept cultivated, it will 
seldom be in need of watering. However, during an ex- 
tended drought, soak the ground thoroughly for hours and 
then do not repeat for a week. Stop all watering and cul- 
tivating about the first of September. 
An application of peat put on in May and left the rest of 
the season helps to retain moisture and keeps the soil cooler 
and in better condition for Rose growing. It may also help 
in disease control. ; 
Pruning 
When a Rose is set out in the Spring, shorten the strong 
branches to 6 to 8 inches, and the weaker even more. Heap 
the soil as high as the branches are pruned, to protect 
against drying out, until the roots become established. Re- 
move this bank of soil when the shoots start, so that the 
bud or crown is about level with the soil surface. 
The only Fall pruning recommended is shortening tall 
bushes down to about 2 feet, so that they will not wind- 
whip. The real pruning for established bushes is given in 
the Spring when the bank of soil is removed. At this time 
remove dead wood from the Hybrid Teas and cut the strong 
branches down to the highest big live bud. Shorten or re- 
move weak growth. After the big June bloom, if there is 
a lot of small twiggy growth on the top of the plant, it is 
well to cut it off, down to some good strong growth and 
just above some well-developed eye. 
The weak branches of Polyanthas should be cut down 
and the strong ones shortened one-half. Hybrid Perpetuals 
ean be shortened about one-third and from Climbers the 
dead wood should be removed. In July, after the first big 
burst of bloom is over, you may prune Climbers, but prun- 
ing is not recommended unless the plant is too large for 
the trellis. 
Feeding 
Bonemeal is the only Fall fertilizer for Roses that is 
recommended. In the Spring, when the bank of soil is re- 
moved, apply Wyant Rose Food, or else a complete chem- 
ical fertilizer, to the established plants but not to newly set 
Roses. Wyant Rose Food is recommended, because it is of 
organic composition rather than chemical, and even after 
long usage does not make the soil toxic, nor burn, as a chem- 
ical fe lizer will. Much fertilizing will produce much 
bloom, so during June or early July make another applica- 


tion to new as well as to established Roses, and then again 
in the latter part of August, but not after September 1. 
Each time, apply about a handful to medium strong bushes, 
less to weaker, and more to stronger plants. 
Suckers 
Suckers are the wild shoots that occasionally spring up 
from below the bud. They can be distinguished from 
flowering shoots by the small, heavily veined leaves and 
often by the thorns on the stems, being entirely different 
from those on the blooming stems Do not call every stem 
with seven leaflets wild, as many of the flowering stems also 
have seven leaflets. A sucker only comes from below the 
bud. As soon as a sucker is discovered, cut it off clean from 
the main plant below the ground, where it originates, 
without leaving a stub which would send up more shoots. 
Disease and Insect Control 
A little attention and care will remedy the few diseases 
and insects that attack Rose plants. Dusting is preferable 
to spraying, for it is easier and quicker. 
Spray or dust aphids, the small green lice that appear 
about the tips of the shoots, with insecticides containing 
nicotine or rotenone. Spray or dust worms and insects that 
eat leaves, with rotenone or with a poison, such as arsenate 
of lead, one of the ingredients of Wyant’s Massey Dust. 
Both above pests can be controlled with Wyant Rose Dust. 
Knock Rose chafers, the large grayish bugs with long 
legs and snouts, into a pan of water covered with coal-oil. 
Place a drop of shellac or thick white lead on all cut ends 
in the Spring, when pruning is done, to keep out the car- 
penter bee, which makes a hole in the exposed pith. 
Prevent black-spot and mildew by dusting with any of 
Wyant’s Dusts, beginning as soon as the leaves come out 
and continuing about every week, and more often in rainy 
weather. Apply a light, even coat with a gun on a calm 
evening before the dew, if possible, thereby protecting the 
foliage so that it will be retained until frost. 
Winter Protection 
The time-honored method of Winter protection is putting 
a bank of soil around the branches of Hybrid Teas in the 
late Fall before severe freezing occurs. However, Summer 
protection against diseases is more important in keeping a 
Rose alive. If a plant goes into Winter in a good hardened 
condition, having retained its foliage until freezing, it will 
live through the Winter in fine shape even without abundant 
covering. Therefore, keep your Roses healthy in the Sum- 
mer and forget your Winter protection. 
Please cooperate by reading and following 
the simple planting directions accompanying 
ety order, even if you have planted Roses 
efore. 

PLANT WYANT ROSES 
It may sound as if the diseases and insects are very 
troublesome and numerous on Roses, but you will 
be surprised how easily your bushes can be kept 
healthy by following our recommendations. 
Wyant Roses are kept healthy in the nursery and 
so are full of life and vitality. They are the best 
that can be raised. They are called 2 years old but 
in order to give them the highest quality possible, 
they are grown a full year longer in our nursery than 
in some others. Wyant Roses have 3-year-old roots 
and strong tops. You should see their fine roots. 
What difference is there between a 2-year root and 
a 3-year root? Just this—there is almost no loss 
from transplanting a Wyant Rose. They start 
easily and produce an average of 40 to 50 blooms per 
bush every year. Wyant Roses are full of life and 
vigor. 
After you have had Wyant Roses you will never 
be satisfied with something less good. You will find 
that Roses are not just Roses; there is a difference 
in them. Wyant Blue-Blood Roses give the growth 
and blooms that you expect; they produce satis- 
faction. 

PLEASE READ BEFORE ORDERING 

Special Discounts 
10% discount on 12 to 24 Roses. 
15% discount on 25 or more Roses. 
The discounts do not apply to the 
Collection 
If any variety ordered is sold out, we will sub- 
stitute an equally good kind unless requested not 
to. The correct name will be put on the bush, as we 
guarantee all Wyant Roses to be true to name. 
Order early or send a list of second-choice 
varieties so as to avoid disappointment. 
All shipments sent prepaid except Rose Foods, 
and 8 lbs. Lime-Sulphur 
These prices and discounts supersede 
all previous lists 
OHIO CUSTOMERS ADD SALES TAX 
QUALITY ROSES 
We all want the best results possible in our 
gardens. We are sometimes fooled into thinking 
we can get good returns even from low-priced plants. 
Occasionally that is possible but quality plants have 
a much better chance; they produce real satis- 
faction. 
There is a big difference in Rose plants, depend- 
ing upon the way they are grown. The soil makes a 
difference—the fertilizer applied gives them 
strength—the prevention of pests makes them 

healthy and hardy—care ii: cultivating ana training 
makes better plants—care in digging keeps the full 
vitality in the plant. All of this can be seenin a Rose 
bush and is very evident to those who know Roses. 
As specialists, we do all the necessary operations 
at the proper time and in the way they should be 
done. Our attention is undivided; we are con- 
tinually endeavoring to improve the quality of our 
Roses, to make them the best that you can get— 
WYANT ROSES. 


MELVIN E. WYANT © fiose Specialist, Inc. - MENTOR, OHIO 

