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and diseases. Applying the flakes in a closed 
paper bag is safe for a few weeks if bulbs be 
dry, since some moisture can escape. Avoid 
wax or oil paper bags since mvisture could 
not escape. If roots and old buivs are re- 
moved several weeks after applicatien, any 
napthalene remaining may be removed. If 
the flakes have not entirely evaporated by 
the time little root knobs and eye sprouts 
emerge, showing bulb is no longer dormant, 
shake out any remaining. Do not use any 
napthalene in the trench at planting time 
since it is safe only to the dormant bulb. 
CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE 
Also known as mercuric chloride treatment. 
This produces such wonderful results, 
with so little effort, with so little cost, 
that no one, whether he grows a bed of 
glads four foot square or four acres, 
should fail to so treat his bulbs. Re- 
gardless of where or how the bulbs grew the 
preceding year. This gives the bulb a coat- 
ing that wards off various bulb diseases 
and fungus attacks. We used to keep our 
bulbs healthy by this process long before we 
ever heard of thrips. Now, it has been con- 
clusively proved, this treatment also kills any 
thrips and their eggs, and, if used, you only 
need keep a watchful eye for thrips infestation 
from outside sources. Remember soaking pro- 
cesses are only advisable just before planting. 
This is not a fall treatment. If your bulbs are 
husked, they need only be soaked half as long, 
but we do not advise husking unless you 
know your bulbs are infested badly and you 
wish to take no chances on penetration to the 
bulb. Many have inquired if the treatment is 
safe to use on badly sprouted or rooted bulbs. 
This will not harm them. 
We have never discovered that any benefits 
may be had from soaking bulblets in this 
solution. 
We read an article in a Canadian ‘‘quarter- 
ly’ by someone who called himself “I Dip- 
pem,”’ who said he had a lot of little batches. 
To keep them separate he obtained some of 
the women folks’ old stockings, slipped a 
batch into a toe with wooden label, tied the 
stocking above the batch and so proceeded 
until all the batches were conveniently ready 
to soak, remove and drain. 
Note Important Revision of formula by 
U.S. Dept. Ent. to allow additional time for 
penetration of stubbornly tight husks. 
Dissolve 1 oz. of the powder first in a bit of 
hot water, then pour into 7 gal. of water, pre- 
ferably above 60 degrees. Remember, cold 
water may render the treatment ineffective. 
This must be poured into a non-metal con- 
tainer, such as a crock, wooden pail, glass or 
unchipped granite ware. Varieties kept sep- 
arate in cloth bags. No difference if bulbs are 
then planted wet or dry, but the sooner the 
THE GLADIOLUS FANCIER’S 
better as much of the coating may be lost if 
bulbs become dry. Solution weakens with 
use, so replenish 100% if used again. Soak 8 
to 17 hours, preferably night before planting. 
Be sure bags are fully immersed. Do not use 
this substance in tablet form unless you learn 
exactly how much of the tablet, in weight, is 
actually corrosive sublimate. You want a 
final solution of about 1-1000. This solution 
is safe to the hands but is a deadly poison and 
must be used and disposed of with extreme 
care. 
Suggest you dilute the solution about four 
to one and pour it about your iris, delphinium 
' or perennials or on any brown spots on your 
lawn. 
NEW IMPROVED CERESAN 
As developed by D. B. Creager, formerly 
Research Plant Pathologist at Urbana, IIl. 
(and sec’y the Ill. Gladiolus Soc.), now sta- 
tioned at the Agricultural Experiment Sta. 
Bradenton, Fla. to further study gladiolus 
bulb and plant diseases. After four year tests 
with thousands of bulbs and in conjunction 
with tests by Michigan groups. 
These tests seem to indicate that it cleared 
off bulb diseases about 15 per cent better than 
did corrosive sublimate and without bloom 
delay and that in respect to bulblets, whereas 
corrosive sublimate reduced the production 
of healthy bulbs the new improved ceresan 
increased it about 100 per cent. 
Formula in small amount: 1 oz. new im- 
' proved ceresan, 3 teaspoon Grasselli Spreader- 
Sticker, 3 gal. water. In larger amount, 4 
lb., 5 tablespoon, 25 gal., respectively. 
Mix the ceresan and spreader wetting agent 
first with paddle, avoiding hand contact while 
in this dangerous, concentrated form. Then 
add the water while stirring. 
Soak BULBS in thin cloth bags 15 minutes 
but not longer than 30 minutes, stirring oc- 
casionally. Soak BULBLETS 30 minutes. 
Plant same day treated else wash out in 
several water changes to stop the action and 
spread out thinly to dry. When ready to 
make the postponed planting dip for a few 
seconds again. Replace solution after using 
three times. 
This treatment will not cure fusarium rots. 
Neither this treatment nor LYSOL is safe to 
use except on dormant bulbs and bulblets, so 
if bulbs have made appreciable root and sprout 
growth or if bulblets have been soaked for 
some time to partly germinate them, do not 
use this treatment. 
For many years we have had shocking tales 
from growers who used Lysol either too strong 
or too long or delayed planting too long with- 
