
RADISH — Continued 
in., very white with pure white, mild 
flesh. 27 days. 
White Strasburg—Popular white sum- 
mer variety. 4 to 5 in. long. Tapered 
and smooth. Thicker than White Icicle. 
40 days. 
Fall and Winter Varieties 
Rose China Winter — Popular, very 
distinct winter sort. Good for late sal- 
ads. Cylindrical blunt, smooth, bright 
rose-red. Flesh white, very firm and 
pungent. 52 days. 
Long Black Spanish — Good keeping 
winter variety. White, crisp and pun- 
gent. 8 to 9 in. long, slightly tapered. 
58 days. 
Round Black Spanish—Black-skinned, 
with pure white flesh, crisp, solid and 
pungent, 7 to 10-in. long and 2 to 3-in. 
thick. 60 days. 
SPINACH 
Bloomsdale Savoy, Long Standing—A 
few days later than regular Blooms- 
dale Savoy. Holds from 12 to 14 days 
longer. 42 days. 
New Zealand — Thrives in dry, hot 
weather. Can be picked repeatedly all 
season. Not a true spinach, but similar 
when cooked. 70 days. 
Nobel Giant, Thick-Leaved — Large, 
vigorous, spreading plant, slow to form 
seed stalks. Extremely heavy yielder. 
Very deep green leaves. 45 days. 
Spinach seed is scarce this year. 
SWISS CHARD 
Lucullus — Most popular Chard. Up- 
right in growth, with yellowish-green 
curled, crumpled leaves. Thick, broad 
and light green stems. 50 to 60 days. 
Pkt. 10c. 
SQUASH 
Summer Varieties 
Cocozelle or Italian Vegetable Mar- 
row—A long Italian squash. 18 to 24 
inches long and 4 in. thick. Dark green 
marked with yellow and light green. 
60 days. 
Early Prolific Straightneck — Earlier, 
smaller, and more productive than 
Giant Summer Straightneck and more 
uniform. Brilliant yellow. Fine for 
home or market. Pkt. 10c. 
Early White Bush Scallop — Fruits 
greenish when young, become white at 
maturity. 3-in. long, 714 to 812-in. wide. 
53 days. 
Giant Summer Crookneck — Prolific, 
bush type plant, curved neck fruits 
around 4 to 5-lb., 20 to 24-in. long. 4 to 
5-in. diameter. 56 days. 
Zucchini Fordhook—Honorable men- 
tion. Long, slim and very dark green. 
Bush-like plants small enough for any 
home garden. Easy to grow. 60 days. 
Zucchini Bush—About 6 in. long at 
edible stage. Flesh greenish-white and 
tender. 56 days. 
Fall and Winter Varieties 
Golden Table Queen — All-America 
medal 1939. Skin is deep golden, flesh 
orange, dry, fine flavor and texture. 
Table Queen or Des Moines—Acorn- 
shaped, green, deeply furrowed; flesh 
rich yellow, dry, mealy, delicious. 
Convenient size for baking and serv- 
ing in halves. 100 days. 
Warted Hubbard — Large, very dark 
green shell and heavily warted. Flesh 
deep orange and of excellent quality. 
120 days. 
N 

OKRA or GUMBO. Do not plant 
until ground is warm, as this is a 
tender, hot weather plant. Pick pods 
before they develop woody fibres. 
ONION SETS. Onion sets used in- 
stead of seeds will produce earlier 
crops of green onions or large bulbs. 
Plant sets right side up and cover 
with garden rake; then firm the soil 
well over the sets. 
ONION. Plant as soon as soil can 
be prepared. For best yield, plant 
on very fertile land—fall plowed, 
and thoroughly fertilized. When 
plants are a few inches tall, thin to 
prevent crowding—using the plants 
removed as green onions. Those left 
to become fully ripe can be stored 
for winter. Cultivate and hand weed 
crop every 2 weeks during summer. 
PARSLEY. Does best in rich, mel- 
low loam. Seed is slow to germi- 
nate, and is helped by soaking in 
warm water over night before plant- 
ing. Sow early and not too deeply. 
When curled varieties are about 3” 
tall, cut off all leaves. The new 
growth will be brighter and better 
curled. 
PARSNIP. Plant in rich, sandy 
loam, thoroughly pulverized. Seed 
requires plenty of moisture for ger- 
mination and should be sown early. 
Dig after a killing frost. Freezing 
improves parsnips, so some can be 
left in the ground all winter and 
used in spring. For storage, bury in 
dry sand. 
PEAS. For early crop, plant in 
light, rich soil. For general crop, a 
rich loam or clay soil is best. Plant 
at 2-week intervals for continuous 
supply. Soak seeds in water the 
night before planting. Peas need 
moderate temperature, plenty of 
moisture. Light frosts do not injure 
them so they may be planted early 
in spring. Varieties more than 114’ 
tall should be staked when 4” to 
6” tall, 
For increased yield, INOCU- 
LATE! Garden peas, like all le- 
gume crops, almost always benefit 
by inoculation, Quantity and qual- 
ity of the crop are increased when 
the beneficial nitrogen-fixing bac- 
teria are present in sufficient num- 
bers. 
PEPPERS. Warm, mellow soil in 
sheltered location is best. Start un- 
der glass. Cultivate regularly, draw- 
ing soil up around stems, When 
plants are 7” to 8” tall, hoe in light 
dressing of commercial fertilizer. 
Do not plant hot peppers near 
sweet; they are apt to cross. 
PUMPKIN. Cultivate practically 
the same as melons or cucumbers. 
RADISH. Soil should be light, 
quick and rich to insure rapid 
growth. Slow growth makes the 
flavor too strong, Sow as early as 
ground can be worked, as Radishes 
are very hardy. Make successive 
sowings up to hot weather. When 
in the third leaf, thin to give roots 
plenty of room. Pull promptly when 
mature. The secret of crisp, deli: 
cious radishes is quick growth, 
prompt picking. 
RHUBARB. Sow in cold frame in 
spring and transplant into rows as 
soon as plants are large enough. In 
fall or the following spring trans- 
plant to permanent location in rows 
3’ to 5’ apart each way. Stalks 
should not be taken for use the first 
year, 
SPINACH. Plant very early in 
spring—or start seed in fall (giving 
it protection by 3” of straw over 
the winter) and enjoy an early 
spring crop, Cut all spinach before 
hot weather as it doesn’t do well in 
extreme heat. Sow again in August 
or September for fall crop. Spinach 
should be gathered before the flower 
spike appears. 
SQUASH. Plant about same time as 
corn—and in hills, Does best in 
rich, sandy loam, and is helped by 
fertilizing the hills. When in the 
third leaf, thin to 4 plants per hill. 
Cover every fourth joint with earth 
to encourage extra root formation. 
Bush varieties may be planted in 
hills 3’ to 4’ apart. 
SWISS CHARD. Requires about 
same treatment as beets, Cultivate 
frequently. Leaves may be gathered 
during summer and fall. New ones 
will grow quickly. 
TOMATOES. Do best in sandy, 
well pulverized loam. Sow seed in 
hotbed or indoors. When plants are 
abcut 2” high, set out, 3” apart, in 
boxes or pots—later transplant into 
the garden. Or keep in flats until all 
danger of frost is past, and then set 
plants out directly into the garden. 
Water around the roots of the 
plants when setting them out, if 
ground is dry. Cultivate frequently 
until plants shade the ground, Re- 
move all but the two or three 
strongest branches. Study methods 
of staking and training vines and 
adopt the one best suited to your 
situation, 
TURNIPS. For summer greens or 
roots, sow as early as radishes and 
lettuce. Thin out when plants are 
1” high. Sow again in summer for 
fall and winter use. Turnips do best 
when most of their growth is made 
in autumn or early spring. Should 
be grown rapidly for best flavor and 
texture. 
WATERMELON. Requires about 
same culture as muskmelon, except 
the vines need more room. Fertilize 
each hill liberally and cultivate 
thoroughly. 
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