Proper PLANTING and Care means 
Succedé in your Orchard... 
FIG. 1 

FIG, 6 


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PRUNING FOR PLANTING: Most nursery fruit trees have a number ot 
lateral branches radiating from the trunk between 24 and 36 inches above 
the bud union (Fig. 1). Select a point just above three or four symmetrically 
placed laterals and lop off the balance of the top with sharp hand shears. 
Then shorten in the selected laterals to two or three buds, or “eyes” (Fig. 2). 
Trim off all other lateral growth. The root system should be examined for 
loase ends of broken roots. Should any be present, carefully remove them 
aboye the breaks. At the same time, insure the quick starting of new 
fibrous roots by making fresh cuts toward the ends of whole roots (Fig. 3). 
Some varieties, such as cherries, do not have lateral growth develop- 
ment as young nursery stock. Select three or four healthy looking buds 
24 to 36 inches above the bud union and lop off the trunk above these. 
Later in the spring you will be able to select the three or four laterals 
wanted for future development and dispose of all others. 
Be sure to keep the roots of your trees moist and protected from drying 
out. This is important. 
PLANTING: Dig large, spacious holes, at least half again the 
size of the root system. While shoveling out, keep the top soil in a 
separate pile from the subsoil and smash all clods. Hold the bud 
union at surface level while pushing in the topsoil first about the 
roots; following with the subsoil almost to surface level (Fig. 4). 
Play a slow stream of water on to the newly filled-in soil to settle 
it firmly about the roots (Fig. 5). The water does a far more efficient 
job than tramping with heavy shoes. 
Don't overlook the benefits of peat moss when planting young fruit 
trees. Its remarkable ability to expand on becoming saturated 
allows for soil aeration in seasons of heavy rainfall. Its ability to 
hold moisture is helpful where plantings are made in sandy soils. 
Thoroughly mix a bucketful with the topsoil before filling in about 
the roots. The freshly dug hole makes a satisfactory mixing-bowl. 
IRRIGATION: Provide a basin around the base of your fruit trees 
large enough to accommodate 25 or 30 gallons of water. Make 
regular investigations with a hoe through the dry season to deter- 
mine the condition of the sub-surface soil, and when it appears dry, 
irrigate. A mulch of peat moss or straw in the irrigation basin will 
prevent cracking of heavy soils and conserve moisture in all soils. 
After your young trees have become established you can use a 
mulch of straw and well-rotted cow manure. 
FERTILIZATION: If well-rotted cow manure is not available, use 
any balanced commercial fertilizer, but keep in mind that your trees 
should have the two or three months grace from planting and that 
all fertilizers should be applied on the surface, and not in direct 
contact with the roots. About ¥% pound of balanced commercial 
fertilizer can be worked into the soil in the irrigating basin and 
washed to the root atea by succeeding irrigations. Step this up to 
three pounds for a mature tree, following the root growth outward 
from the base of the tree with ever-widening circles of application. 
CULTIVATION is required for preventing of moisture-squandering 
weed growth and to provide ease of penetration for the next appli- 
cation of water or rainfall. Heavy soils are inclined to crack upon 
drying out and need thorough and frequent cultivation. Do not cul- 
tivate so deeply that surface fibrous roots are damaged or exposed 
and be careful not to “bark” the trunks of young trees. 
PROTECTION: Tree protectors are excellent insurance against 
mechanical injuries, borers, sunburn and rodents. Whitewash is an 
excellent protection from sunburn after trees have developed pro- 
tecting bark. A good formula: 5 lbs. unslaked lime, Y2 pound 
table salt, Ya pound sulphur. Mix thoroughly and add water 
slowly, stirring constantly. Apply the whitewash with a 
brush when it has cooled and is about the consistency of 
thick paint. Use care not to splash whitewash on foliage or 
small branches. 
PRUNING: During the first summer try to keep the new 
growth confined to the development of three or four well- 
spaced main branches. Trim off all unnecessary growth. 
When the leaves have dropped in late fall, prune as indi- 
cated in Fig. 6, shortening in the main branches one-third 
to one-half. Exception: Cherry trees should not be cut back; 
remove conflicting branches only. 
Use Fig. 7 as a guide for pruning in succeeding years of 
apricots, nectarines and peaches. Almond, apples, plums 
and prunes need very little pruning after the first year ex- 
cept that which is required to keep the tree fairly open. to 
admit sunlight. 
WALNUTS AND PECANS: Walnuts and pecans will not 
make a good growth unless the tops are severely pruned 
when planting. Shorten the tops to 24 to 30 inches above the 
bud or graft. Select the strongest shoot in late spring and 
trim off all others. Provide a 2”x2”x8’ stake driven two feet 
into the ground. Trim off laterals arising from new trunk 
under six feet. Whole roots should be nipped off one inch 
just prior to planting and broken roots should be cut back 
to the break. Set the trees so that the bud or graft union is 
3 or 4 inches above ground level. 
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FIG. 4 Brees 
