How te Control PLANT PESTS and DISEASES 

COMMON PESTS OF 
GARDEN and ORCHARD 
Aphis attack the new growth of most plants. Curled 
foliage at the tips of new growth indicate the presence 
of aphis. They can be controlled by spraying with an 
oil emulsion to which nicotine or pyrethrum-rotenone 
has been added. Keep ants out of the plant by band- 
ing with a “‘tanglefoot’’ near the base of the tree or 
shrub or poisoning with a liquid bait. Follow up at 
two-week intervals. 
Scale and Mealy-bugs attack many parts of the plant. 
The adults of scale resemble miniature stationary sow 
bugs and mealy-bugs are covered with a snow-white 
meal. Usually ants are present. Control by spraying 
at intervals of two weeks with an oil emulsion and 
dispose of ants as recommended above. Follow-up is 
essential to control young “hatching” through a long 
season. Spray from June through September. 
Red Spiders, Mites and Thrips. Foliage turns mottled 
gray or yellow. Spray with an oil emulsion to which 
nicotine or pyrethrum has been added. Method and 
thoroughness of spray is most essential as undersides 
of leaves must receive a good soaking. Follow-up 
essential. 
Leaf-hoppers and White Flies are self-evident when 
the foliage is brushed and insects swarm up or hop 
to nearby leaves. They are the enemies of quick, lush 
growth Two methods of control may be used. Spray 
with oil emulsion to which has been added nicotine 
or pyrethrum-rotenone or dust with materials contain- 
ing nicotine, sulfur or pyrethrum-rotenone. 
Foraging Pests such as cut-worms, snails and slugs, 
which damage the stems and foliage of plants, may be 
controlled by several methods. Poison with prepared 
baits applied near the affected plants. Dust with a 
material containing pyrethrum-rotenone, lead arsenate 
or nicotine. Spray with lead arsenate mixed with a 
light solution of oil emulsion to act as a spreader. 
_ Fruits or edible parts of plants sprayed or dusted with 
lead arsenate should be thoroughly washed before 
eating. 
Beeiles attacking foliage of many plants may be con- 
trolled by any of the methods recommended above 
for foraging pests. 
Borers attacking the twigs and roots of trees may be 
controlled by applying a soil fumigant (PDB) at the 
base of the trunk in late summer and fall. 
Lawn Moths appear in spring and early summer. The 
larvae from the eggs adults lay in the sod feed on 
roots of lawn grasses and cause damage that does not 
become noticeable until serious. Dust lawn with lead 
arsenate when air is quiet, using 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. 
Soak lawn immediately with sprinkler to wash lead 
arsenate into turf. 
Rodents. Use traps or poisoned grain (Rodent De- 
stroyer). For gophers, drop a few grains in runways. 
For mice, rats and squirrels, place the grain where the 
rodents find their food or on the way to their runs. 
Do not place near their holes and keep out of the way 
of children, plants and poultry. 
Fungus Diseases such as Mildew, Black Spot, Rust, 
may be controlled during the growing season by a 
solution containing copper (Bordelo) or by a solution 
prepared from Bordo powder and at foliage strength. 
Brown Rot, Shot Hole and Curly Leaf of peaches may 
be controlled during the dormant season by spraying 
with these materials at dormant strength. Mildews 
may be conitroiled by dusting with materials contain- 
ing sulfur or copper dust. 
SIX GOOD RULES 
FOR PEST CONTROL 
1. Identify the insect or disease attacking the plant. 
Your county agricultural commissioner or farm 
advisor can help you. If more convenient, write 
to us giving details and enclosing affected portion 
of plant. 
2. Select the remedy from the information given on 
pages 30 and 31 of this book. 
3. Use the manufacturer’s instructions shown on the 
container. 
4. Follow up! One treatment will not suffice in most 
cases. 
5. Don't let the bug or disease “get ahead” of you. 
Take immediate action and follow up until extermi- 
nated. 
6. Spray or dust thoroughly. Be sure that all portions 
of the plant subject to injury are contacted. 
KEEP THESE ON HAND 
A simple spray kit may be assembled by purchas- 
ing a bottle of oil emulsion (Volck), a bottle of contact 
insecticide (Blackleaf 40’ or Extrax), a botile of 
fungicide (Bordelo or Greenol), a package of good all- 
purpose dust, a package of lead arsenate and an ant- 
control kit (Fresnol). A 2¥2-3 gallon tank sprayer 
completes the equipment. Other materials may be 
purchased as the specific need requires. 
HOW TO GROW 
GRAPEVINES 
Planting: Grapevines should be planted during 
January, February and March. Before planting, trim 
off all roots except the main roots at the base of cut- 
ting and shorten these to two or three inches. Prune 
the top to two buds on a single spur and place the 
plants in a bucket of water until ready to plant. Dig 
spacious holes and set the single spur about two inches 
above ground level while filling in with top-soil about 
the roots. Firm the soil with a slow stream of water. 
Pruning: Quick results are obtained by throwing all 
of the top growth into a single cane during the first 
growing season. Train it straight up to form the cen- 
tral trunk for your vine. In the next winter, prune the 
laterals back to two buds on all varieties except 
Thompson Seedless. Begin training the laterais of this 
variety during the first growing season. Reason: 
Thompson Seedless fruit arises from two-year wood; 
in other varieties fruit is borne on current season's ~ 
growth. 
Train laterals arising from the main trunk during 
the second summer horizontally. Trim secondary lat- 
erals arising from these horizontal canes back to two 
buds in the second winter. Upon establishing a com- 
plete framework, continue to trim all canes back to 
two buds each winter. Exception: Thompson Seedless 
require a continuous reserve of canes for following- 
year production. 
Cultural: Do not irrigate grapevines too frequently, 
resulting in watery, tasteless fruit. Three good irri- 
gations during the summer will suffice under average 
conditions. A mulch of well-rotted cow manure ap- 
plied two months after planting will force strong 
growth useful in building a good framework quickly. 
Watch your vines closely in fall for mildew, and dust 
with a good grade of dusting sulphur as soon as the 
first sign of mildew is apparent. Follow up with other 
applications when conditions warrant. 
PLANT ROEDING’'S QUALITY 
31 
HOW TO GROW 
GOOD APPLES 
Apple trees will make good growth and excellent 
trees in soils that do not favor the production of other 
fruit varieties. For example, almonds, peaches, cher- 
ries and nectarines are not tolerant of heavy, moisture- 
retaining soils typical of many California sections. 
The roots of apple trees will support large trees and 
good crops in these soils. 
Apple seedlings were planted by the pioneers of Gold 
Rush days and the venerable trees still growing and 
producing in now-forgotten mining areas attest to their 
ability to thrive under adverse conditions. 
For home orchard purposes the trees require little 
attention other than occasional irrigation and spraying 
following their second year in your garden. Special 
attention should be given to spraying for codling-moth 
for the production of worm-free fruits. We recommend 
the following: 
Obtain a package of Lead Arsenate (see spray ma- 
terials listed on the opposite page) and a bottle of 
Nursery Volck. Use the proportions recommended by 
the manufacturer. It is wise to make the solution out- 
side of your sprayer and strain through a cloth to 
prevent clogging. 
When about half of the petals have dropped from the 
spring apple blossoms, apply the first spray, thor- 
oughly weiting the tiny new fruits. A second spray 
should follow within 5-10 days. About the middle of 
June spray with the oil alone, omitting the lead arse- 
nate. The addition of nicotine or pyrethrum-rotenone 
to the oil solution will assist in the control of aphis and 
other insects operating in this season. A second oil 
and nicotine spray is desirable in the interior valleys 
in early July. 
Cleanliness is essential to codling-moth control in 
your orchard and in the neighbors’. Pick up unde- 
sirable fruits from, beneath trees regularly and do not 
allow refuse to lie beneath the trees at any time. 
The above control measures may be applied to Pears. 
Apples: FLOWERS, FRUIT 
and SHADE 
No other fruit tree contributes more to your garden 
and orchard than the Apple. As the trees grow older, 
their good features become more pronounced and 
your trees more valuable. 
FLOWERS. The springtime display of apple blossoms 
is a delightful experience in beauty and fragrance. If 
you cherish apple trees for flowers, we particularly 
recommend Mr. Etter’s Humboldt Crab, described on 
page 2. 
FRUIT. Nutritional authorities rate apples at the top 
of the list of deciduous fruits. When selecting varieties 
for your favorite type of fruit, consult the descriptions 
for the best varieties to eat fresh, cook or can. For a 
long productive season, consult the listing under 
"ripening sequence” on pages 3 and 30. 
SHADE. As mature trees, apples have wide-spread- 
ing branches desirable for cool summer shade. To 
hasten this effect, prune young trees the first four or 
five years to outside buds, keeping them open in the 
center. Apple trees are quick growers with a mini- 
mum of attention. To hasten growth irrigate and 
fertilize regularly. 
.4 SINCE 1865 

