SPINACH 
Bloomsdale Savoy, Long Standing— 
A few days later than regular Blooms- 
dale Savoy. Holds from 12 to 14 days 
longer. 42 days. 
Improved or Giant Nobel—Large, vig- 
orous, spreading plant, slow to form 
seed stalks. Heavy yielder. Large, thick, 
smooth, deep green leaves. 45 days. 
New Zealand — Thrives in dry, hot 
weather. Can be picked repeatedly all 
season. Not a true spinach but similar 
when cooked. 70 days. 
Viroflay — Very large, broad thick 
leaves, slightly crumpled. Old standard — 
variety suitable for spring or fall sow- 
ing. Good for canning. 46 days. 
SQUASH 
Cocozelle (Bush)—Also called Italian 
Vegetable Marrow. Oblong shaped. 
Dark green with light green flesh of 
very delicate flavor. 60 days. 
Early Prolific Straightneck—Earlier, 
smaller, and more productive than 
Giant Summer Straightneck, and more 
uniform. Brilliant yellow. Fine for 
home or market. 50 days. 
Early Summer Crookneck — Fruits 
curved at neck, weigh 3-lb., light yel- 
low, moderately warted. 53 to 55 days. 
Early White Bush Scallop — Fruits 
greenish when young, become white 
at maturity. 3-in. long, 742 to 814-in. 
wide. 53 days. 
Hubbard—Most widely grown of any 
winter squash. Round, warted, dark 
green with thick yellow flesh. Weight 
12 to 14 lbs. Excellent flavor. 100 days. 
Table Queen or Des Moines—Acorn- 
shaped, green, deeply furrowed; flesh 
rich yellow, dry, mealy, delicious. Con- 
venient size for serving. 100 days. 
Zucchini—Straight, cylindrical fruits, 
3-to 4 lb., 4 to 5-in. through, 10 to 
14-in. long. Mottled and striped green- 
creamy-gray. Delicate flavored flesh. 
Bush type. 60 days. 
SWISS CHARD 
Lucullus — Most popular Chard. Up- 
right in growth, with yellowish-green 
curled, crumpled leaves. Thick, broad 
and light green stems. 50 to 60 days. 
TOMATOES 
Dwarf Champion — Desirable where 
space is limited. Plant dwarf tree type, 
dark green leaves. Fruits medium, 
smooth, solid, pink, globular. 86 days. 
Grothen’s Red Globe—Wilt resistant. 
Deep red with no yellow about stem 
end. Popular for shipping. 73 days. 
Improved Stone — Medium late. De- 
servedly popular with canners and 
market gardeners. Ripens evenly and 
is uniform. Fruits large, flattened, but 
deep. Smooth, attractive scarlet-red, 
of fine flavor. 86 days. 
Jubilee—Bright orange with few seeds. 
Good for slicing or juice. Rich in vita- 
min content. 72 days. 
June Pink — Earliest of pink fruited 
varieties, heavy bearer. Vine open, 
spreading, rather short. Fruits medium 
size, flattened, smooth, purplish-pink. 
69 days. 
s 

OKRA or GUMBO. Do not plant 
until ground is warm, as this is a 
tender, hot weather plant. Pick pods 
before they develop woody fibres. 
ONION SETS. Onion sets used in- 
stead of seeds will produce earlier 
crops of green onions or large bulbs. 
Plant sets right side up and cover 
with garden rake; then firm the soil 
well: over the sets. 
ONION. Plant as soon as soil can 
be prepared. For best yield, plant 
on very fertile land—fall plowed, 
and thoroughly fertilized. When 
plants are a few inches tall, thin to 
prevent crowding—using the plants 
removed as green onions. Those left 
to become fully ripe can be stored 
for winter. Cultivate and hand weed 
crop every 2 weeks during summer. 
PARSLEY. Does best in rich, mel- 
low loam. Seed is slow to germi- 
nate, and is helped by soaking in 
warm water over night before plant- 
ing. Sow early and not too deeply. 
When curled varieties are about 3” 
tall, cut off all leaves. The new 
growth will be brighter and better 
curled. 
PARSNIP. Plant in rich, sandy 
loam, thoroughly pulverized. Seed 
requires plenty of moisture for ger- 
mination and should be sown early. 
Dig after a killing frost. Freezing 
improves parsnips, so some can be 
left in the ground all winter and 
used in spring, For storage, bury in 
dry sand. 
PEAS. For early crop, plant in 
light, rich soil. For general crop, a 
rich loam or clay soil is best. Plant 
at 2-week intervals for continuous 
supply. Soak seeds in water the 
night before planting. Peas need 
moderate temperature, plenty of 
moisture. Light frosts do not injure 
them so they may be planted early 
in spring. Varieties more than 114’ 
tall should be staked when 4” to 
6 tall; 
For increased yield, INOCU- 
LATE! Garden peas, like all le- 
gume crops, almost always benefit 
by inoculation. Quantity and qual- 
ity of the crop are increased when 
the beneficial nitrogen-fixing bac- 
teria are present in sufficient num- 
bers. 
PEPPERS. Warm, mellow soil in 
sheltered location is best. Start un- 
der glass. Cultivate regularly, draw- 
ing soil up around stems, When 
plants are 7” to 8” tall, hoe in light 
dressing of commercial fertilizer. 
Do not plant hot peppers near 
sweet; they are apt to cross. 
PUMPKIN. Cultivate practically 
the same as melons or cucumbers. 
RADISH. Soil should be light, 
quick and rich to insure rapid 
growth. Slow growth makes the 
= VEGETABLE GROWING CHART 
flavor too strong. Sow as early as 
ground can be worked, as Radishes 
are very hardy. Make successive 
sowings up to hot weather. When 
in the third leaf, thin to give roots 
plenty of room. Pull promptly when 
mature. The secret of crisp, deli- 
cious radishes is quick growth, 
prompt picking. 
RHUBARB. Sow in cold frame in 
spring and transplant into rows as 
soon as plants are large enough. In 
fall or the following spring trans- 
plant to permanent location in rows 
3’ to 5’ apart each way. Stalks 
should not be taken for use the first 
year, 
SPINACH. Plant very early in 
spring—or start seed in fall (giving 
it protection by 3” of straw over 
the winter) and enjoy an early 
spring crop, Cut all spinach before 
hot weather as it doesn’t do well in 
extreme heat. Sow again in August 
or September for fall crop. Spinach 
should be gathered before the flower 
spike appears. 
SQUASH. Plant about same time as 
corn—and in hills. Does best in 
rich, sandy loam, and is helped by 
fertilizing the hills. When in the 
third leaf, thin to 4 plants per hill. 
Cover every fourth joint with earth 
to encourage extra root formation. 
Bush varieties may be planted in 
hills 3’ to 4’ apart. 
SWISS CHARD. Requires about 
Same treatment as beets, Cultivate 
frequently. Leaves may be gathered 
during summer and fall. New ones 
will grow quickly. 
TOMATOES. Do best in sandy, 
well pulverized loam. Sow seed in 
hotbed or indoors. When plants are 
about 2” high, set out, 3” apart, in 
boxes or pots—later transplant into 
the garden. Or keep in flats until all 
danger of frost is past, and then set 
plants out directly into the garden. 
Water around the roots of the 
plants when setting them out, if 
ground is dry. Cultivate frequently 
until plants shade the ground, Re- 
move all but the two or three 
strongest branches. Study methods 
of staking and training vines and 
adopt the one best suited to your 
situation. 
TURNIPS. For summer greens or 
roots, sow as early as radishes and 
lettuce. Thin out when plants are 
1” high. Sow again in summer for 
fall and winter use. Turnips do best 
when most of their growth is made 
in autumn or early spring. Should 
be grown rapidly for best flavor and 
texture. 
WATERMELON. Requires about 
same culture as muskmelon, except 
the vines need more room. Fertilize 
each hill liberally and cultivate 
thoroughly, 
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