
TOMATOES 
(Continued) 
Marglobe — Moderately productive, 
with heavy foliage. Vigorous and re- 
sistant to wilt and rust. Fruits medium 
large, nearly round, smooth, and solid. 
Deep scarlet-red. 77 days. 
Oxheart — Open, spreading, moder- 
ately productive vine. Fruits extremely 
large, somewhat rough, heart-shaped 
and pink. Solid, mild-flavored. 90 days. 
Pan America, New Wilt-Resistant 
—Newly developed by the U. S. Dept. 
of Agriculture. Deep scarlet, heavy and 
firm. Evenly shaped. Resistant to Fu- 
sarium wilt and nailhead rust. Worth 
a try. 15 days. 
Ponderosa—One of the largest vari- 
eties. Spreading large vines. Solid, fine 
flavored, pink, with small seed cells. 
Somewhat rough and flat. Have a ten- 
dency to crack. Late variety. 88 days. 
Pritchard—A cross between Marglobe 
and Cooper’s Special, developed by 
U.S. Department of Agriculture. Large, 
solid, smooth, round fruit, with thick 
walls. Rather light scarlet. 73 days. 
Rutgers—Second early variety. Large, 
thick stems, vigorous foliage. Fruits 
similar to Marglobe but flatter at stem 
end. Bright red, with thick walls. Red, 
firm flesh, low acidity. 72 days. 
Stokesdale—An extremely important 
new development. Smooth, 7-oz. fruit, 
brilliant color, exceedingly solid flesh 
and small seed cavities. Matures in the 
second-early group, a full week earlier 
than the Marglobe group. Usually 
ahead of Bonny Best, too—and 2 ounces 
peace. Small Fruited 
Red and yellow varieties, shaped like 
miniature pears, plums, and cherries; 
very attractive in appearance and pop- 
ular for preserves. 
TURNIPS 
White Fleshed 
Amber Globe — Chiefly grown for 
stock, but used for table when young. 
Tops large, cut leaved. Roots round, 
large, smooth, globe-shaped, light yel- 
low with green top. Flesh yellowish 
white, of good quality. 76 days. 
Long White Cowhorn— Long white 
variety used principally for stock food. 
Tender and sweet for table use when 
young. Tapered; 12-15 in. long. 65 days. 
Purple Top— All purpose variety. 
Large, sweet tops. Smooth, globe- 
shaped roots, purple-red above, white 
below. Sweet, tender, crisp, fine 
grained white flesh. 50 to 60 days. 
White Egg—Cut leaved, medium sized, 
upright tops. Egg shaped roots, all 
white. Smooth grained. 55 to 60 days. 
Foliage Turnip 
Seven Top — For greens or forage. 
Young shoots extremely tender. Roots 
tough, undesirable for food. 50 days. 
Shogoin or Japanese Foliage — Re- 
cently introduced and rapidly gaining 
popularity. 18 to 20-in. bright green 
tops, strap leaved. Roots are semi- 
round, and white. Very mild and ten- 
_ der. 70 days. 
Rutabaga or Swede Turnip 
American Purpletop—Hardy and pro- 
ductive. Tender firm, light yellow, 
sweet flesh. 88 days. 
Ss 


(Cont’d from preceding page) 
4—Avoid growing vegetables your 
family doesn’t like and won’t eat, 
but be sure to include plenty of 
those they do like. If they’re fond 
of beans, for instance, don’t be sat- 
isfied with a single large planting, 
but make several smaller plantings 
at two weeks intervals. 
From thousands of reports received 
from home gardeners on last year’s 
results, Tomatoes, Swiss Chard, 
Green Beans and Carrots produced 
the most food with the least effort. 
Concentrate on these if your space 
is very limited. 
5—In smaller gardens, don’t plant 
space-wasting crops like Potatoes, 
Pumpkins, Sweet Corn and Vine 
Squash. On the farm these can be 
grown with the field crops, saving 
the more highly cultivated garden 
space for the more productive vege- 
tables that need closer attention. 
Many gardeners last year reported 
that Zucchini and other bush 
Squashes gave better results than 
Eggplant and satisfied many of the 
requirements for vining Squashes. 
6—Include perennial vegetables 
when possible. Rhubarb, Aspara- 
gus, Horse Radish and Perennial 
Onions can be grown on one side of 
the garden where they won’t inter- 
fere with plowing or cultivating. 
Small fruits should be included 
whenever space will permit, since 
the quality of home-grown berries 
is far better than any you can buy. 
7—Plan to grow enough vege- 
tables for storing and canning. 
Remember that correct storage be- 
gins with planting (see under Stor- 
age) so provide for this when plan- 
ning your garden and ordering seed. 
8—Study the chart on page 15. 
This will tell you how far apart rows 
should be, how long each crop takes 
to mature, and how much space you 
will need to provide the vegetables 
your family likes. After you have 
taken into consideration the crops 
you want to grow, make a rough 
sketch showing the location of each 
crop, with catch crops, intercrops, 
succession crops indicated. 
MAKE A PERMANENT PLAN 
After the rough sketch has been 
made, this information should be 
transferred to a larger sheet with 
the garden drawn to scale. 
A scale of one-quarter of an inch 
representing one foot works very 
well, because by using 1/16 of an 
inch as three inches, almost any 
standard spacing of the rows can 
be shown in exact scale. Save this 
plan from year to year so you can 
remember where each crop was. 
This will enable you to rotate root 
crops, leaf crops and fruit crops. 
With the plan complete, you are 
now ready to order your fertilizer, 
seed, tools and insecticides. It is 
to your advantage to do this as 
early as you can. Late in the sea- 
son many desirable varieties may 
be sold out, deliveries may be slow 
and clerks are so busy that they 
can’t help you as well, 
STARTING SEED INDOORS 
Many plants can be started in- 
doors or in coldframes or hotbeds 
outdoors for earlier crops. 
Any gardener can do this, but it 
cannot be done carelessly if good 
plants are to be grown. If care can- 
not be given, it would be better to 
sow crops like Tomatoes and Cab- 
bage direct out of doors because 
direct-seeded plants will produce 
bigger crops than will transplants 
that have been damaged by high 
heat and too little water. 
Tomatoes, Cabbage, Cauliflower, 
Broccoli, Peppers and Kohlrabi can 
be started indoors, Use a box three 
inches deep and of any suitable size. 
Space the bottom boards about an 
eighth of an inch apart to provide 
drainage. Sift soil and use the 
coarser part in the bottom, with an 
inch of fine soil on top. Press 
around edges of box with a brick 
or board to firm the soil. Add more 
sifted soil and draw the straight 
edge of a lath or ruler across the 
top to level. 
Press furrows about one-quarter of 
an inch deep into the soil, the fur- 
rows spaced about 2” apart. By 
treating the seed with Rootone, 
a plant hormone that speeds up 
germination and increases the 
strength of seedling roots, better 
seedlings which will transplant 
with less loss can be grown. Plant 
seeds 34” apart to allow room to 
lift each seedling without disturbing 
the rest. After seeding, fill furrow 
with clean sand or sifted soil and 
press down soil over entire box 
until it is 4%” below upper edge. 
WATERING AND TEMPERATURE 
Use either a small fly sprayer or a 
rubber spray bulb that throws a fine 
mist to water the box after planting. 
If not available, cover surface with 
burlap and water through this. 
Correct control of moisture is the 
most important single factor in 
success with indoor seed sowing. 
Soil should never be saturated, yet 
must not dry out at any time until 
seedlings show second set of leaves, 
when they can be transplanted out- 
doors if weather permits. 
If seeds of several varieties are 
grown together, keep box at 70 de- 
grees until seeds germinate, but if 
only tomatoes and peppers are 
grown, a temperature of between 
75 and 85 degrees will produce 
better seedlings. 
Don’t start seedlings too soon or 
they may become long and spin- 
dling. Six weeks before time to set 
out is soon enough to sow seed in- 
doors, and eight weeks if a hotbed 
or coldframe is used, 
19 
