MARCH. 74 
HINTS ON THE CULTURE OF THE PELARGONIUM. 
Waar flower is more beautiful or more easily cultivated than the 
Pelargonium, and why is it that we so seldom see the plants grown by 
amateurs what they should be? We go to five places out of ten, and 
instead of being gratified by the sight of healthy good-habited plants, 
are disappointed by finding only weak spindling specimens. We regret 
that some of our friends who contribute to floricultural works appear to 
make some reservations in bringing their methods of cultivation before 
the public. Surely it cannot be attributed to a fear, that, by following 
their instructions, others might eclipse them. It should always be the 
desire of every real lover of horticulture to strive to attain the highest 
perfection by the simplest means, and having attained this, to bring these 
means unreservedly before the world. My experience at Worton 
Cottage for many years has given me large opportunities for judging 
what is the most successful mode of cultivating the Pelargonium; and 
the belief which I entertain, that with care, amateurs can equal 
nurserymen therein, has induced me to trouble you with a few hints, 
which I hope will not be unacceptable to your readers of the former class. 
The cutting should be taken from a single stem of old wood, and in 
potting from time to time lower the plant a little, by which it acquires 
a strong constitution, will never throw up rootlets or suckers, nor make 
weak wood. Should the cutting, on striking, break more than one eye, 
take off the weaker one or ones, leaving the strongest break. I put 
each cutting ina 3-inch pot, and strike in a gentle heat, after which 
they must be hardened in a cold house before shifting, which should 
be into 4-inch pots. When the plant has grown from three to four 
inches, it should be stopped, which operation will cause it to make about 
four breaks, further than which it should not be allowed to go the 
first season, if we study quality of flower. The plant should now be 
repotted into a 48-sized pot, and in this it should flower. If we give 
them more root room they grow continually, a circumstance which very 
much affects the character of the flower. But should the amateur desire 
a specimen plant for next season, the above directions must be slightly 
varied. It should be shifted from a 48-size into a large 32-sized pot, 
where it will break freely and bloom late. But in this case, the flower 
will be very indifferent. Nevertheless, we insure a sufficient number 
of eyes to form a fine large plant for the coming year. Be very 
particular, especially in the winter months, to occasionally stir the 
surface of the mould, which will prevent the green-fly, so injurious to the 
plant, from appearing. Fire very sparingly, giving as much air as 
possible at every favourable opportunity, and do everything that will 
tend to keep the plants close and short-jointed, which will greatly favour 
the ripening of the wood. Don’t mind losing a little bottom foliage, as 
thereby you will surely know that your plants are getting thoroughly 
ripe; and, by this course, you will greatly improve the quality of the 
flower, which we maintain is the thing in all plant growing, but espe- 
cially in the case of the Pelargonium. 
As to compost, I use rich fibrous loam, stable-dung, and alittle cow- 
