AUGUST. 233 
six or eight feet apart, should be inserted at alow angle pointing upwards; 
and to these the upper rail (which is to receive the sash bars) will be 
fastened by an iron plate and screws, but not by a dove-tailed joint, as 
we wish to take to pieces every part of the frame at pleasure. By this 
arrangement, the upper part of the frame will be rather higher than the 
wall. ‘The return roof will be used as a ventilator; it may either be 
weather boarding, made of 2-inch deal, and painted with Carson’s paint, 
or glazed, according to the means of the builder. A plate wiil lie between 
each of the short rafters supporting the upper rail, and to these the back 
ventilators or lights must be. hung and adjusted, so as to be moved 
upwards at pleasure, for ventilating. The space between the lower rail 
and border should be filled up by two weather boards one foot wide each, 
hung between the upright posts, and made moveable by working on a 
centre pin, so as to open and shut at pleasure, on the louvre principle; 
by which means the largest admission of air can be given, which, with 
the admission from the back ventilators, will be found sufficient, even in 
the hottest weather. 
The most convenient sized squares are those 12 inches wide and 18 or 
36 inches long. Four or eight squares will then be required to glaze 
each bar of 12 feet. The bars to receive the glass should be 14 inch 
wide by the same in depth, leaving a bead down their centre half an inch 
wide and in depth as much as the glass is in thickness, to form a rabbit 
for the glass. A groove must be run down each side of the centre bead 
to carry any moisture getting in under the glass down to the front. The 
bars may have either a plain cant or be moulded on the underside, at 
the option of the builder. Each bar must have a slight cast-iron shoe 
for its upper and lower ends, which will screw on to the plates or rails, 
so as to keep them entire, and also to allow of the bars being removed, 
and the whole taken to pieces when required. ‘Three small brass pins 
are fixed on the lower rail, against which the lower tier of squares will 
rest. The squares should be placed edge to edge, and not made to 
overlap each other, as in ordinary glazing, and therefore in laying the 
squares they should be picked out to match each other in thickness, and 
they will also require to be cut very true, that when placed together 
they may form a water-tight (or nearly so) joint. We recommend 
that no putty should be used, but if the bars are not worked very 
smooth, a thin strip of India-rubber should be placed on the bars under 
the glass, which will enable the fastening to be screwed down tight, 
without fear of breaking the glass by pressure. For the fastening 
material either felt, cork, or iron screws 1 inch or 14 inch square may 
be used ; in which case a piece of thick India-rubber 14 inch square, 
with a hole in the centre to admit the screw, should be placed at the 
angle where each four squares meet, up the bars, and this will be 
screwed down tight to the glass, and will keep each four squares firmly 
fixed. If cork or felt is substituted, ordinary screws will serve; the 
screw will be in the centre of the beading, and it will be obvious that 
the rabbit should not be deeper than the glass, or the latter will not be 
kept firm. When the upper tiers of glass are placed, a strip of 1 inch 
deal, about 4 inches wide, is placed 1 inch over the glass, to keep them 
in their places, and also serves for the back ventilator to fall against. 
