256 TIE FLORIST. 
very useful through the early part of the winter. Sow Tripoli Onions 
about the middle of the month; also Prickly Spinach for winter and 
spring use. Finish planting Broccoli and all winter Greens without 
further delay. Mulch and water the:late crops of Peas, if the weather 
becomes hot and dry. Sow Chervil, American Cress, and Parsley in 
a sheltered situation; it is a good plan to make a sowing under trees, 
which will be a slight protection through the winter. Sow Turnips the 
second week and a little Early Dutch at the end of the month. Sow 
Karly Horn Carrot the first week in the month, to remain in the ground 
for winter use. Cut herbs, if not already done, and keep the hoe 
moving among all growing crops. | 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Auriculas.—The task of repotting must be completed early in the 
month (I have already spoken of the compost, see July No. of M/oris?). 
Probably some experiments will be made as to the size of the pots, 
whether using larger ones will give stronger plants; but generally 
speaking southern growers do not use any above six inches. Use plenty 
of drainage and coarse compost, and some pieces of charcoal over it. 
The plants should be carefully examined; some shake off all the earth, 
others leave a portion on. Some kinds, such as Waterhouse’s Conqueror, 
Beeston’s Apollo, and others, continually throw offsets; the small eyes 
had better be rubbed off, unless increase is much wanted. The root 
fibres should be carefully laid round, and the potting be tolerably tight. 
It is well to make separate lists of blooming plants and offsets, so that 
the true state of the stock may be seen. I advised last year that they 
should be watered by standing in a tub on top of another pot; but I 
am rather disposed to omit this, as I fear it sours the roots sometimes. 
Carnations and Picotees.—A very late bloom this year. At one time 
they looked very badly, but now they are very much improved, and 
promise well. Let everything be ready for the blooming—cards, 
awnings, &c.; tie the swelling pods with a piece of bast, to prevent — 
bursting, and place cards on—the card ought not to press on the pod. 
Few amateurs increase their stock by pipings, but as the layer becomes 
hardy go on with it; use loam, leaf-mould, and sand, or road sweepings, 
for a compost; it is needless to describe the process. Dahlias.—Put 
in side stakes, and tie out and secure the branches to them. Remove 
all buds that do not promise well, and do not allow the plant to be 
robbed by small side branches, which will be of no profit for blooming. 
Pelargoniums.—Compost should be prepared now, as at the end of the 
month it will be required; about two-thirds good loam, one-third old 
cow dung, and enough silver sand to keep it open, is an excellent 
mixture. Do not overpot; and when done put into a close frame, 
and give for a few days careful attention to watering, and they 
will soon be established. P24s.—Pipings will now be rooting ; remove 
the glasses, and then, when sufficiently established, move them eut into 
store beds. Those who have space may also now prepare their beds 
for next year’s bloom. There are some noble flowers to come out this 
autumn. ‘ 
Deal, July 19. | ae AY 
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