958 THE FLORIST. 
for, although the best of Cucumbers are obtained from dung frames 
from April to September, it is a most difficult and troublesome matter 
to keep them in a healthy growing state from December to March. 
The great superiority of hot water as a medium of heating foreing 
houses is in no instance so apparent as in its application to Cucumber 
growing. The ease with which any amount of either top or bottom 
heat can be obtained, and the power which the grower of Cu- 
cumbers by hot water possesses’ of diminishing or icreasing the 
moisture of the air in his house or pit, is a great element of success 
in growing plants ke the Cucumber, which luxuriates in-an_atmo- 
sphere loaded with moisture and supplied with a moist uniform bottom 
heat. ge Ss 
For winter forcing, to cut from November to March, the seed should 
now be sown in single pots, plunged in a slight bottom heat, close to the 
glass. As they advance in ‘size, transplant into 32's or 24's, keeping 
them in a night temperature of about 65° to 68°, with plenty: of air 
daily. The great secret is to get the plants strong and hardy ; and for 
this purpose give air freely every fine day, and let the plants be near 
the glass. In about a month’s time, they will be ready to transfer to 
the fruiting house, having in the meantime been carefully trained to an 
upright stick without stopping the main shoot. The best pits for winter 
fruiting are those with a tolerable sharp pitch,‘to admit as much light 
as possible through the winter ‘months. The house ‘may be either a 
span-roof one or the ordinary lean-to. It should not be too much 
exposed to rough winds, that air may be given on all fayourable 
occasions without damage to the plants, and it should have ample meanis 
of heating, to maintain a temperature of not less than 70° in any 
weather. A low-span roof, with sharp pitch (see above) running north 
and south, with a path down the middle, and a pit about three feet 
wide on each side supplied with pipes for bottom heat, is about as good 
‘a structure as can be built for Cucumbers. If the pit should happen 
to stand east and west, then keep the south side for winter fruiting, 
and the north for a successional crop. pm 
The pipes for bottom heat may either be chambered over or covered 
with rough stones, through which the heat will be distributed and warm 
‘the border above. A pipe must also run round the pit, furnished with 
troughs, for supplying moisture at pleafure. The bottom heat should 
not be less than 90° when the plants are growing freely, but for the 
present, after planting, 80° will be ample, until the days get shorter 

and colder, when the bottom heat must be gradually raised to 90°, at — 
which point it should be steadily..kept through the winter. The bed 
of soil for the plants to grow in need not be more than 20 inches deep, 
and placed at first in separate hillocks, to which’ the’ plants should be © 
transferred from their pots next month. ‘Rich’ turfy loam, mixed with — 
a little peat, is the best compost for them: If the’ loam’ is heayy, 
mix a little old mortar rubbish with it, A wire trellis, 20 or 24 inches 
from the glass, should be fixed for training the plants on as they grow, 
and to which, in the first’ place, they must be led direct from the hillock 
without stopping. When they have grown two or’ three’ jomts long on 
the trellis, pinch out the end’of the shoot, when they will push three or 
