| SS ee CULTURAL 






POUL N TERS 
COREY P ointers 
PLANTING 
Under shading information we have added the date of benching and you will note that we suggest 
planting in May and June depending on the date you wish to shade. The reason for earlier plant- 
ing is to allow the plant enough time to grow so that the stem length is sufficient when blooms 
are ready to cut. For normal culture it is our experience that too late a planting, such as in late 
July or August, does not pay. We would like to see all planting done in the month of June. 
Many florists are planting rooted cuttings directly into permanent locations. This not only reduces 
several handlings and production costs, but also produces a better quality bloom. We fully realize 
that it is often an impossibility for all to treat thair chrysanthemums this way. However, we have 
found that young, soft plants are superior to hard woody plants. We do not recommend the plant- 
ing of unrooted cuttings directly into the permanant locations as you may encounter a heavy loss. 
However, we suggest you try a small number as a trial. 
When planting rooted cuttings either into 2!/,"" pots or directly into the bench it has been proven 
that if you dip the cuttings, roots and all into a solution of Fermate |!/, pounds per 100 gallons of 
water they will become established faster as well as protecting the young plant from septoria leaf 
spot. If you plant in a cloth house or directly in the open be sure to add this to your must list. 
When planting rooted cuttings into their permanent position it is necessary to shade the glass or to 
put aster cloth directly over the young plants long enough until they are established. When shading 
the glass be sure that the eee be applied lightly. 
It is definitely advantageous to have some shade on the glass during the months of June and July 
when the light intensity is the highest. Cloth houses eliminate approximately one-third of the light and 
we all know what excellent results are obtained under this enclosure. Therefore, shading the glass 
lightly should likewise be beneficial. Remember not to allow the shade to remain on the glass too 
late in the season. 
For good quality pompons we prefer to plant 7x8 inches or 8x8 inches pinched once, and thin the 
shoots to three per plant. Nothing is gained by planting at a closer distance. Light intensity should 
be high at the base of the plant for quality blooms and if planted too close we have lost the factor 
which promotes quality. Large flowered varieties are generally planted 8x8 inches or 8x? inches, this 
also applies to disbud anemone and single varieties. 
Several growers have had success by planting two plants to a hill, spacing the hills 10x10 inches, 
pinching once and allowing six sprays per hill. This will require a few more plants but it is claimed 
that when planted further apart it is easier to spray and string. A higher production per square foot 
is obtained. 
Knowledge of the varieties, date of benching as well as your method of growing will largely govern 
the distance of planting. 
WATERING 
The knowledge of proper watering is essential to success. Chrysanthemums produce extremely heavy 
foliage and a great deal of water is required at the roots, and under ordinary conditions of bench cul- 
ture overwatering would be difficult. When grown in beds more care should be exercised in watering. 
After benching young plants grown in 2!/,"" pots, soot watering around the plants is more desirable 
than watering the entire area. When the plants become established the entire area should be given 
a thorough watering. A trowel should be used to examine the soil to determine the necessity of water- 
ing. Some soils look wet on the surface but are very dry several inches below. 
When planting rooted cuttings directly into their permanent locations it is essential to water thoroughly 
to set the soil around the plant roots. We suggest double watering again when the soil gets on the 
dry side. By this time the plants are established and regular watering should be followed. Keep hu- 
midity in the house by wetting down bench and walks. 
During the heat of the summer it is beneficial to syringe or spray the foliage of chrysanthemums. 
When syringing is started around 8:00 A.M. and continued at regular intervals, with the help of a 
light shade on the glass, the house temperature can be kept down as well as raise the humidity within 
the house. When the growth becomes thick or when the nights get chilly discontinue all syringing. 
Yet growers who grow quality mums tell us that they do not syringe their crop during the entire 
season. 
