
Well Established Young Plant Top Several Inches Removed Strong Breaks Resulting 
from Single Pinch 
PINCHING 
Pinching not only regulates the number of stems but also influences the petallage of varieties that tend 
to be single; regulates the neckiness; eliminates the appearance of crown buds: and regulates the 
spray formation on pompons or singles. 
For high quality pompons we suggest that you plant in June and give one pinch on the date listed 
in our list of varieties under "Last Pinch’, and allow 3 to 4 breaks te mature. If you follow this culture 
your sprays will be much larger and every one will be saleable. If you prefer to have a number of 
smaller sprays, with fewer blooms open at one time, follow the double pinching procedure. 
When pinching only remove the soft growth, never cut into the woody stems as this will not produce 
the type of breaks you desire. In all cases it is better to have at least eight inches of growth on the 
plants before pinching. It is our experience not to pinch until the plant has become well establis 1ed 
in its permanent location. 
Standards are usually pinched once to induce breaks so that they may be grown two per plant. The 
strongest breaks are selected and all others removed. It is well to pinch on the date suggested in the 
general list. Careful observation has shown us that neckiness with some varieties is eliminated by 
pinching on the respective dates. Singles and anemones are usually grown 3 to 4 stems per rlent. 
If by chance you are delayed in planting and your plants will be too tall, it is advisable to pinch early 
enough before benching so that the breaks will be several inches long at time of planting. Never pinch 
hard plants at the same time they are planted into the bench, a heavy loss may result. Better wait 
until plants are established, then pinch. 
The last pinching dates given after each variety will help you grow that variety to excellency. Remem- 
ber that pinching is just one cultural factor and will only function when all other cultural points are 
carried out properly. 
TEMPERATURE 
This crop will make its most growth during cool weather. During the summer, syringing overhead plus 
a light shade on the glass will help keep the plants cool. 
It has been shown that if chrysanthemums are grown in temperatures much below 50 degrees at the 
time of bud initiation the plants will remain vegetative and will not form flower buds. 
Blindness in this crop is usually associated with those varieties which flower the latter part of No- 
vember or later. Not all varieties initiate buds at the same date. The late flowering varieties may 
not set bud until October. The average night temperature at that date may well be below 50 de- 
grees. It is recommended that.you keep a night temperature of 55 regrees on the late varieties until 
the buds are visible, after that you are safe in reducing the temperature to 48 to 50 degrees. This 
raise in temperature is especially important if you are using additional light to retard blooming. 
