_,. Principles of Daklia Culture... 
SOIL. Any type soil is suitable or may be made so. If too heavy | Ph 
with clay, sand may be added—not too coarse. Humus is very 
important. Peat moss, compost or purchased humus may be 
added. Since most soil is deticient in humus, one cannot go far 
wrong in adding it, preferably in the fall or very early spring. 
For the midwest, rye is almost the only successful cover crop; 
sow after Dahlias have been dug and plow under in the spring 
while still tender, before heads have well developed. If allowed 
to get too old and tough ploughed-under rye may ruin your soil 
for a season. When weather and soil are right, plow deeply a ie 
few weeks before planting. as a, ees ee 
In many of the heavy soils in this section drainage is most Peon sicns 
important. Deep plowing, sufficient sand and humus to make the 
soil porous should suffice, but locations are found where tile drainage is necessary to protect 
against very heavy rainy spells. ; 
Dahlias do well in a neutral to fairly acid soil. Liming however will do no harm and sometimes 
much good by releasing nutrient ingredients of the soil. 
FERTILIZING. Nitrogen produces rank foilage and flowers. Phosphates produce tuber growth 
and fibrous roots. Potash makes for color of bloom and resistance of plants to disease. Any ap- 
pheation of fertilizer should be well mixed with about 1000 times its weight of soil to prevent 
burning of fibrous roots. We use 2-10-6 (nitrogen-phosphate-potash) with our planting, Fertil- 
izers mixed with soil at planting is the most efficient method. Top dressing is effective with 
potash and nitrogen but the phosphates do not get down to the roots until plowed under. 
Manure is doubly important as a fertilizer and supplyer of humus. Chicken manure should be 
applied sparingly or composted before using. Leaves composted till decayed are a valuable source 
of both humus and fertilizing elements. Most soils are deficient in potash, which may be supplied 
in wood ashes, muriate or sulphate of potassium. 
It is better to use some reliable brand of mixed fertilizer at about six pounds for every ten 
to twelve hills of dahlias, well mixed with plenty of soil than to use a chemical fertilizer like 
sodium nitrate for it takes a chemist to know how little to use. 
PLANTING. Thorough plowing or spading, with soil dry enough to break up well is the best 
preparation. April 15th to July 1st depending on the season is right for Ohio Valley. For cut- 
flowers plant as early as soil and season dictates. For exhibition, June 1st is right. In general, 
4 ft. apart each way is a good rule. For the home garden 4 or 5 stakes should be provided. 4 by 
5 ft. with two plants to a stake is also good. Roots should be 4 in, deep, set horizontally, in 
heavy soil and 6 in. deep in very sandy soil. Plants should be moistened and planted without 
disturbing the roots, about one-half inch deeper than they were in the pot. Water thoroughly. 
Plants will produce more plump tubers in a lean farm soil than in a rich garden. For best tuber 
production, let the soil dry out well between waterings. 
DISBUDDING. This operation is valuable for the production of the best flowers and stems for 
either cutting or exhibition. Take out the “suckers” or small laterals for two or three nods or 
joints (where leaf joins stalk) down from the terminal bud, starting with the first or crown 
bud of the plant. Cut bloom before back is wilted, thus stimulating development of fresh 
erowth, buds and flowers. Visit us in July and August and we will give you a practical 
demonstration. 
WATERING. In protracted drought the foliage should be well and forcibly sprayed with water 
to prevent red spider. In general, do not water till the ground becomes fairly dry and then 
soak to a good depth. When surface shows cracks and is dry enough, use rake or hoe to provide 
dust mulch to conserve soil moisture, A light daily watering is 
unnecessary and even injurious. 
CULTIVATING. Working the ground between plants is bene- 
ficial to keep weeds in control and conserve soil moisture in dry 
weather. Dahlias will respond to cultivation whenever soil con-. 
ditions are suitable. As plants grow larger, cultivation should be 
shallower so as not to cut surface feeder roots. Tie plants to 
stakes, once for every 18 inches of growth. 
DIGGING should be about November 1st to 15th regardless of 
date of killing frost. Dig without bending or breaking necks of 
tubers. Cut stalks to within 2 inches of roots. Store in cool cellar 
immediately after digging, packing in peat moss, clean sawdust, 
sand or other suitable material. If tubers have been well nour- 
ished with balanced fertilizer and not over-fertilized and season 
has been such as to properly develop and ripen tubers, they will 
keep well. Big thick stems are more conducive to crown or < 
stem rot than slimmer stems grown on leaner soils. Farm 
grown, not heavily fertilized, not watered dahlias, produce 
more tubers that almost always keep well through winter. 
DIVIDING. In the spring divide clumps by splitting the stem 
and crown so as to leave one eye or sprout to each division of 
one or more roots. 

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