Hennessey plants will outperform roses from any source if they are handled according 
to the clear and simple rules I lay down, and as far as I am concerned, they can jolly well 
be handled properly. If they are not I shall no longer be responsible. 
The performance of Hennessey plants is no accident. They perform because I put an 
enormous amount of time and skill into producing them. After I have done my part 
one hundred fifty per cent, it is then up to the buyer to do his. 
Hennessey rose plants will survive treatment that other rose plants are absolutely 
unable to come through, and because of their great vitality and fine roots, they will live 
in difficult climates and perform where rose growing has been given up with ordinary 
plants. But a rose plant is a living organism and even my plants can be greatly weakened 
or killed by determined people. 
People do awe-inspiring things to rose plants and then blandly expect them to flourish. 
Some of the commoner things are leaving them in the package for weeks, or even months 
before planting; enthusiastically whacking off all the roots and leaving the tops 
exposed to hot drying sun, failing ever to water them after planting, etc., etc. 
There are also people who plant them with moderate accuracy, whereat the plant starts 
to grow vigorously. Then every rose that appears is cut with every possible inch of stem, 
so the plant has left virtually no leaves to function on. HOWEVER, I will replace all 
plants of which complaint is made within five days of eae if the plant or plants are 
shipped back to me. 
Because I am only able to be in one place at a time, I shall have to ask local people to 
order from the catalog, for it is impossible for me to get out the large amount of orders, 
and give advice and help with selection of varieties. I wrote the book, “Hennessey on 
Roses,” and if it is too much trouble to go to one of the local libraries, or buy the book, 
it is just too bad, for from now on I shall consider rose plants one commodity and advice 
another, The plants are for sale, and so is the book. 
Reasonable people certainly will not object to me placing a value on my time, and as 
to the other kind, well, I repeat, “It’s just too bad.’”’ 
IF YOU DO NOT CARE TO READ THE FOLLOWING 
PLEASE DO NOT ORDER 
Because of the entire lack of help I have been forced to use as many short cuts in 
filling orders as possible. One of these is that I will not be able to thin out and prune 
the plants as in the past. 
If you will not agree to do this as follows I certainly wish that you do not buy from 
me. Use sharp pointed knife (with some large canes you may need a small saw) and thin 
out small canes and/or those with branches so as to leave as few wounds as possible. 
These must be smooth (flush with the surface from which they are taken), leaving not 
more than 3 to 5 according to size (some plants may have as many as 8 or 10). Then 
cut them back to an outpointing eye from 7 to 9 inches above the union of the root and 
the rose (the graft). After this protect the wounds with some kind of paint, preferably 
emulsified asphalt, as it sticks better. The idea is to prevent loss of cane moisture through 
drying out from either freezing or sun and wind. DO NOT PLANT WITH ALL OF 
THE TOPS, as to do so may cause the loss of the plant. 
This brings to mind one of the most pernicious indoor sports concerning roses. That 
of marking up a catalog for a friend who might live in another town fifty or a hundred 
miles away. Talk about ‘‘angels fearing to tread.” Roses do not have stable colors nor 
habits like tulips and delphiniums. Myself, I would hesitate to recommend roses to the 
neighbor around the block without asking a lot of questions. I suggest that you read my 
new book, “‘Hennessey on Roses,” before giving your friend advice, After that you won't 
give any advice without a lot of studying of the book, 
Sols Oe 
